New 1940 Truck project

[Vics Stuff]

Mark ! the truck that you have there is a 1941 called a commercial. They share the same drivetrain as the cars. That is a nice start.
Vic

[mercman from oz]

This is what a 1940 Ford Pick-Up looks like. Yous is a 1941 Ford Pick-Up.
Notice that yours has extra Trim on the front of the Hood, which the 1941 models got.

[mercman from oz]

Factory photo of a 1941 Ford Pick-Up, like the one that you have just purchased.
These are nice looking Ford light trucks.

[bobH]

As posted by the others.... WELCOME. I wonder if that engine is a candidate for Mart to go through.

[Tinker]

Great truck! have fun! I'm a fan of the field truck mercman posted. But we all have stages to completion. Get it running and stopping. Cool project! Best of luck.

[Shortbed12]

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I also new to Ford Barn
1940 Ford truck project just started
Looking for pictures of the clutch linkage frame to bell

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Shortbed12

I also new to Ford Barn
1940 Ford truck project just started
Looking for pictures of the clutch linkage frame to bell

"Shortbed" .....Sorry it took me so long, but I couldn't find where I had stored a couple of these pictures.

The first picture actually shows a '41 Ford, but the part where the cross shaft meets the transmission toward the right side of photo is what the '40 will look like...AT THAT POINT!





The second picture shows the SHAFT and the BALL bracket itself which bolts onto the lower, horizontal lip of the CENTER "X" rail, as seen in the third picture. Should be self-evident NOW, eh? DD








One More Pic!






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[Roger/Sacramento]

Another way to identify a 1941. The tailgate does not have a V8 imprinted on it. That year offered 4,6 and 8 cyl. engines. Mine was a 6 which had a radiator mounting farther ahead. That had me confused for awhile.

[Richard Head]

I am working a 41 Pick up truck also and getting the hood fenders and grill to line up right is killing me, this is the first one I have done and could really use some insight Thanks Yaw

[Richard Head]

Thats a Beauty I wish you the best of luck. I am in the middle of a 41 and mine started out bad, except for some alignment issues I have had a great time so good luck

[Richard Head]

I am such a Idiot I don't know how to do pictures on the forum I have a digital camara and a cell phone can someone kind of help me figure it out, I have some big time alignment problems and could really use a hand.

[GB SISSON]

Just wondering... Does the green one have a middle stake pocket? Kinda looks so. There was discussion abot that a day or two ago.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Richard Head

I am such a Idiot I don't know how to do pictures on the forum I have a digital camara and a cell phone can someone kind of help me figure it out, I have some big time alignment problems and could really use a hand.

Richard....To align any '40 Ford or '40-'41 pick-up front end, you MUST begin by mounting the hood FIRST. Do yourself a huge favor and read THOROUGHLY Kube's famous "front end assembly instructions" below. If you don't do it his way, it'll never look right. ENJOY! DD

__________________________________________________ ___________


KUBE's Famous '40 Front-End Alignment Guide.

I received so many requests for tips on aligning the front sheet metal on '40s I was knocked to the floor! We all know that the factory alignment was usually quite poor. It's true there is (was) little room for alignment when these vehicles were new.
Please understand I remain in the learning process and am certain there are various ways of properly aligning the sheet metal. However, the way I'll describe has worked for me on numerous occasions with wonderful results.

I start the front sheet metal alignment only when I am completely satisfied with the door alignment. If you're restoring a convertible, it's a MUST that the top be completely installed and functioning as well.
Running boards are not on the vehicle at this time. It is FAR easier to install them later and adjust the rear fenders to the boards.
It is (in my opinion) imperative that the hood be installed and aligned to the cowl prior to any fenders/grill work is installed. Take your time at this step. It is important that you have good hinges and springs. There should be no wear at any of the pivot points. If there is, the alignment will not last.
Be careful that the gap is even from side to side both along the top (between the hood and top of the cowl) and each hood side has the same amount of gap between it and the cowl. The height of the hood should be even with the cowl. Remember that a persons eye will be drawn naturally to the side of the vehicle and especially to the straightness of the trim and body line. It is imperative that these lines are straight! Bottom line-the hood MUST BE CORRECTLY aligned. Take your time and get it RIGHT! Before moving on tighten all attaching points. You should not have to readjust the hood.
Prior to installing the fenders I elongate and enlarge the four clearance holes that will be used to bolt the fender to the lower cowl. * Also at this time enlarge the four holes in the front of the fender that the grille will later bolt through. *
The grille should be a complete assembly PRIOR to installation. This is important as there is no allowance for adjustment within the grille assembly. Originally the stainless strips at each side of the grille (Deluxe only) were stapled to the sheet metal louvers. Doing this makes the installation a bit neater and positively easier. On concourse vehicles be certain to use round staples. Flat staples were not used in 1940.
Now it's time to install the inner fender panel to the respective fender. Prior to this installation enlarge the clearance hole at the bottom (near center) of the inner fender panel. * This hole will be used later to bolt the inner fender to the frame directly next to the brake hose bracket. Be certain to enlarge the correct hole. Of the two holes in this area one will contain a grommet while the other is intended as a clearance hole for the fastener. There is a caged nut on the inner frame to accept this bolt/washer assembly.
Bolt the inner panel to the fender at the top using the special flat carriage bolts. Tighten all securely. On concourse vehicles a thin webbing material is required between the fender and inner panel.
Now's the fun part!
WITH HELP, install a fender/inner panel assembly. Loosely install the nut/bolt assembly through the 'Y' brace to the inner panel. Install (snug-not tight) the four bolt/washer assemblies at the lower bottom of the fender to the caged nuts within the cowl. Now install the other fender.
Again, WITH HELP, using the eight nut/bolt/washer assemblies install the grill assembly between the two fenders. Again, snug-not tight.
Now's the (not) fun part!
There is no easy way to do the remaining aligning. However, patience is a must! Do not be surprised if this takes two, even three evenings. I tend to 'walk away' when I become frustrated.
Slowly and methodically push/pull/tug on the fenders and grille assembly until you are somewhat satisfied with the alignment. Keep a careful eye at the horizontal gap between the hood and the grille (top) as well as the vertical alignment of the hood to grille.
Tighten the bolts at the grille/fenders just a bit more at this time. Recheck all the gaps. If you remain satisfied move on to the four bolts at the lower fender edge/cowl. Tighten these a bit more too. Do the other fender.
Continue to recheck all the gaps after tightening each area. **
Tighten the bolt/nut assemblies at the 'Y' brace. Again, check all of the gaps to be certain nothing has moved.
If you remain satisfied with the entire alignment it's time to tighten all fasteners securely. If you are not satisfied you should be able to push/pull at the fenders as thus far the attachment points are only snug. Remember, "snug-not tight"? This allows the sheet metal to be moved a bit in to place and hold it there prior to firmly securing the fasteners.
If this tightening causes the fenders to pull in too much it is practical to install a thin washer between the fender panel(s) and brace. On rare occasion (reproduction panels) I've found it necessary to enlarge this hole (inner panel) just a bit.
Lastly, install the lower radiator air deflector. It may be necessary to enlarge a hole or two in this pan. Not to worry-all are covered by the proper fasteners.


* I enlarge the holes to 1/2" and elongate approximately 1/8" on either side of each hole. The elongation should follow the curve of the fender. Remember that all these holes will be completely covered by the correct body washers.
**If any gap should change after a specific area has been secured you know with certainty which area caused the effect. You may need to elongate a hole or two in that area a bit more. There should be NO binding at any attachment points."

This is a '40 Pick-up that Kube did not long ago. NOTE...Starting with HOOD at front!




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[Richard Head]

That thing is beautiful. WOW Thank you for the information on lining mine up. I am really concerned my hood may be twisted. I can get my hood looking really good but the rest is a wash. Its like my grill is not wide enough also, it is a reproduction and I am thinking a cheaper one. I am going back to the drawing board and i will let you know what happens. What do you thing about doing some surgery on that old reproduction grill. I need a 1/4 inch wider bad.

[hotrodA]

Welcome to the Barn from a fellow Tennesseean and 41 truck owner.

[Ol' Ron]

The best part of this truck is: Most of the parts are there so hunting down "pieces parts" won't be necessary. However the next thing is: will it be completly original or can you make improvements?? Personally, I think the 39/41 body style of the Ford PU is a classic, and if a modern version of it were made today, itwould be a "Best seller" for years to come.

Gramps

[Rodrelic]

I have a few cast aluminum headlight trim look a lot like that, you can have them, I don’t need them.