New to the Y Block

[Blackfinger]

Just did some horse-trading and ended up with what I was told is a 57 312 from a Bird. It's paired up with a T10 made floor shift in a 54 Customline. Already went through the Hell of trying to find a reman dizzy for it, and ended up getting it running smooth on new points, condenser, and coil. Haven't pulled casting numbers yet, and now think it might be a '56 312 instead. Found a dual-diaphragm tach drive dizzy buried in all the extras in the trunk. NAPA owes me one for a big cust service foul-up on their part, and has offered to reman my dizzy for free to make up for it. Should I bother, since carb has been upgraded and it won't work the 56 dizzy znymore anyway?

Image in first comment

[Blackfinger]

https://ibb.co/XtPWxtd

[Y-Blockhead]

Check Mummert's site for info and numbers.

Personally I would have your Tach drive rebuilt even if you are not going to use it. Somebody may be willing to pay Big Bucks for an original T-Bird tach drive distributor.

[KULTULZ]

I don't think I would trust it with a volume re-builder. Too many bad things could happen. I would hold and sale just the way it is now.

[miker98038]

I’m with K, I wouldn’t trust a volume rebuilder. I don’t think I’d even rebuild it, I’d leave that to the guy who buys it for a “correct” restoration. If you’ve got it running with a 57 and later distributor I’d leave it at that. If the distributor in the car needs work, there’s some guys out in Cottage Grove OR who seem to do nice (but pricey) work.

Here’s the link to Mummert’s site mentioned above.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/

Aside from having the equipment to measure displacement with the engine together, it’s a little tough to verify a 312. The spot on the crank is generally good, but dropping the pan and checking the main caps is the bullet proof way. Then you just guess at any overbore.

[paul2748]

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There really isn't a big market for a 56 Bird distributor (for the 57, it's a different story). I converted my 56 Bird to a 57 distributor and for the longest time couldn't find a buyer for the 56 dizzy. Finally found a buyer - his distributor went bad.


Save your money - if you find a buyer sell it 'as is' and probably needs a rebuild.



If you know of good re-builder, I would like to know.

[Blackfinger]

Thank you guys for your input. I'm still grinning like a fool over here after my first drive, lol

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by paul2748

There really isn't a big market for a 56 Bird distributor (for the 57, it's a different story). I converted my 56 Bird to a 57 distributor and for the longest time couldn't find a buyer for the 56 dizzy. Finally found a buyer - his distributor went bad.

Save your money - if you find a buyer sell it 'as is' and probably needs a rebuild.

If you know of good re-builder, I would like to know.

I would agree but he said NAPA offered to REMAN MY DIZZY FOR FREE... So why not take them up on that offer???

[Tinker]

57 up is the Dizzy to have. Also, take a look at the head casing numbers. Even if it's a 292, it's the heads that will really open it up. ECZ-G. You could always bore it out to 312, if it isn't already. Its a heavy motor, but has respectable torque.


lots of good info here...

http://www.ford-y-block.com/technical.htm


more stuff...

http://yblockguy.com/


http://yblockguy.com/head_casting_numbers.htm


.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Blackfinger

Just did some horse-trading and ended up with what I was told is a 57 312 from a Bird. It's paired up with a T10 made floor shift in a 54 Customline. Already went through the Hell of trying to find a reman dizzy for it, and ended up getting it running smooth on new points, condenser, and coil. Haven't pulled casting numbers yet, and now think it might be a '56 312 instead. Found a dual-diaphragm tach drive dizzy buried in all the extras in the trunk. NAPA owes me one for a big cust service foul-up on their part, and has offered to reman my dizzy for free to make up for it. Should I bother, since carb has been upgraded and it won't work the 56 dizzy znymore anyway?

Every Y-block engine for sale is a "312", or "from a Thunderbird",
just like all those GM V-8 engines for sale are "from a Corvette".

If the block could have been from a '56 or '57 Thunderbird the casting number will be just above and left of the oil filter. (photo) And it will have a prefix of "ECZ" with an A, B or C suffix letter.
Blocks from another foundry or earlier/later years will have the number in other locations with different prefixes. When you find the casting numbers on the block, heads & intake run them past the charts at these links...

http://ford-y-block.com/technical.htm
(the same site Tinker & miker98038 posted above)

http://www.y-block.info/casting/intake.html

A '56 tach drive distributor is worth a fair amount more than a regular '56 dist, but only to a '56 T-Bird owner who broke one beyond repair and doesn't want to upgrade to the '57 version.
They'll probably prefer their own rebuilder anyway, so sell it As-Is and keep the Big Favor the NAPA store owes you. You'll want it for something much better than an out-of-date distributor you aren't keeping.

If the distributor you have in the engine is '57+ it will have a notch to index the rotor. (photo)

Too many oem Y-block distributors sent to chain auto parts stores for rebuild/exchange come back not fitting correctly because the replacement drive shaft is too short to reach the oil pump shaft or cam gear properly. (photo)
.

Originally Posted by miker98038

... it’s a little tough to verify a 312. The spot on the crank is generally good, but dropping the pan and checking the main caps is the bullet proof way. Then you just guess at any overbore.

Two *ID a 312* photos below and this link, FYI ...
http://ford-y-block.com/identify312.htm

It is possible for someone to turn the mains of a 312 crank down to fit in a 292 block and bore it to 312, but the chances of finding one of those is beyond infinitely small.
.

[scicala]

Beware that it's a 312. A lot of people say they have a 312 when in reality, they don't know what they have because they look the same.


Sal

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I would agree but he said NAPA offered to REMAN MY DIZZY FOR FREE... So why not take them up on that offer???

Lots of reasons not to take that offer! Worst case, they will lose it and send you a credit based on core charge for a everyday Ford distributor, not a tach drive one. Or they will return a non-tach drive one. Maybe you will get the right one back with El Gyppo wire, points and condenser and the calibration all messed up. Does the rebuilder even have the equipment to calibrate the correct advance at the specified vacuum? Would they even know how, or care?

[KULTULZ]

Something isn't jiving on that DIST.

FDT-12127-B1 shows 1956 PASS CAR.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Blackfinger

... Found a dual-diaphragm tach drive dizzy buried in all the extras in the trunk. ...

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Something isn't jiving on that DIST.
FDT-12127-B1 shows 1956 PASS CAR.

The '55/'57 T-Bird restoration manual I have lists FEF-12127-B for a '56 T-Bird (tach drive) dist.

Blackfinger, can you post a picture of the whole '56 distributor you have?
It should look like this one.

[Blackfinger]

Yeah, that one does look a whole lot different. Like I said, I'm new to this engine family. I'm much more comfortable with Inlines, Clevelands and Windsors.