11-12-2015, 12:20 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 710
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Tapered Head
Took an engine apart the other day. Head looked clean and checked flat. Still had machining marks. Set it aside and after cleaning it up and painting yesterday noticed the counterbore was not consistent. Difference from the front to the back averages .035".
My take is that it should be replaced. Milling it to the point that everything is even will remove almost all the counterbore. What do you guys think? |
11-12-2015, 12:31 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
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Re: Tapered Head
Stock head? You always wanted that new Snyder's 5.5 or 6.0 head. Now's the time.
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11-12-2015, 01:09 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Tapered Head
Quote:
I then took it to a good machinist and he set it up carefully to get it level and started milling at the high end until he just barely cleaned the low end. as a result we saved the head and only removed .001-.002 at the low end. You should measure your piston protrusion and mill the head accordingly. I've got an engine with no protrusion and I milled it to remove the counterbore entirely, work fine. It all depends on your protrusion or lack of. Original pistons protruded some aftermarkets didn't. Bill |
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11-12-2015, 01:40 PM | #4 | |
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Location: South California
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Re: Tapered Head
Quote:
There is an 'idea'/process for taper milling (expensive) a head to achieve wanted combustion chamber performance (quench). Haven't seen this with a stock setup engine, but would work to improve c/r and wanted quench improvement shape. Maybe this is what you have here ? Be aware of your piston 'popup' , or not, setup before considering this idea/process. |
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11-12-2015, 02:22 PM | #5 |
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Re: Tapered Head
I would either go with another stock head or a high compression head. The price on original heads is low due to the availability of high compression heads.
Charlie Stephens |
11-12-2015, 02:26 PM | #6 |
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Re: Tapered Head
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