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Old 09-01-2021, 08:55 AM   #1
Russell Reay
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Default Rear axle shims

Just discovered a shim on the left axle, so there is one on each side. Since the hub does not rotate on the axle, how can there be enough hub to axle abrasion to cause wear?
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:12 AM   #2
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Caused by the vehicle being driven w/out the nut being properly tightened enough.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:45 AM   #3
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

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Originally Posted by katy View Post
Caused by the vehicle being driven w/out the nut being properly tightened enough.
Needs to be torqued to at least 100. Common problem.

Enjoy.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:46 AM   #4
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

You can try removing the shim and reinstalling the hub to see if the brake drum rubs the backing plate most likely it does rub and that is why the shim was installed.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

The axle nuts have to be tightened once a year or more depending on how much you drive the car
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Old 09-02-2021, 08:09 AM   #6
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

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Some reverse engineering shows this is how the rear axle taper works, and the probable causes of a drum rubbing on the backing plate:
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Old 09-02-2021, 08:29 AM   #7
Russell Reay
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
Some reverse engineering shows this is how the rear axle taper works, and the probable causes of a drum rubbing on the backing plate:
Good explanation, but can't help noting conflicting info. Others have declared that the torque is transmitted from the tight fit of the hub to the axle, and NOT the key. Also, you recommend torqueing nut to 50 lbs, whereas almost all others recommend 100 lbs. New hub is on order.
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Old 09-02-2021, 08:43 AM   #8
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Take the key out of the right rear axle hub and attempt to drive the car on the friction fit of the taper alone. Let me know how far the car goes. As for the torque value, the higher the torque, the higher hoop stress in the hub goes. At 100 lbs-ft of torque on the nut, I think the hub is yielding. I doubt that the factory assembly-line worker torque the nut to 100 lbs-ft. That's a 100 lb force on a 1-foot long wrench!
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:57 AM   #9
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Without the key, or with a broken key the car will stop moving. However, the key being there is not the only reason the car moves. The key along with the torque on axel tapper is how it was designed to work. A loose hub will ware both the axel end and eventually break the key. Causing the axel to spin within the hub.

A properly torqued axel without a key will move the car. How long? You need both for it to work properly. 100 foot pounds is the right figure. Not my first rodeo with this problem.

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Old 09-02-2021, 12:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Not looking to provoke an argument here, just seeking best info and guidance from those who have lots more experience than me--that's everyone. I cannot possibly imagine working on a Model A w/o the participants on this forum. Thank you a thousand times, and I'll be back for more.
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Old 09-02-2021, 05:06 PM   #11
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Default Re: Rear axle shims

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
Take the key out of the right rear axle hub and attempt to drive the car on the friction fit of the taper alone. Let me know how far the car goes. As for the torque value, the higher the torque, the higher hoop stress in the hub goes. At 100 lbs-ft of torque on the nut, I think the hub is yielding. I doubt that the factory assembly-line worker torque the nut to 100 lbs-ft. That's a 100 lb force on a 1-foot long wrench!
This is not correct. I hope the new A owners on the forum reallize this.

John
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