The Ford Barn

chrs1961815 · 05-24-2019, 09:18 PM

You might have seen my previous thread about a 29 Tudor I have been looking at. I want to discuss how much the car is worth.

The car is mostly original to start with. It has been touched up in the paint department and has had new interior which some of it is accurate (door panels) others not (seats). New wiring was put in a while ago and now needs to probably be replaced. Headlights were converted to sealed beams but they do not work. Looks like the fuel lines are either in really good shape or are repros. The wheels were also repainted with a yellowish color. Also, the dash panel is held in by phillips head screws.

It will need new wiring, a new terminal box (it is cracked and the cover is missing), a new headliner (if I'm picky), maybe a new top, maybe new floorboards, a new front mat, and it probably would not be a bad idea to replace all the gaskets. The carburetor leaks a lot so will need to be serviced.

The positive stuff is that everything is in great shape with no rust outs just a little surface rust on the undercarriage and a few other spots. It runs great with no odd sounds as far as I could tell. The owner is a nice guy who says he is the second owner. We are working on tracing the cars history back. The guy drove it a bit and everything must be somewhat okay if he feels comfortable to drive it (steering and brakes). Also, the car is very close to us so we can drive it home. It has got a title, and has been driven very little by the current owner (since the 80s). The car has a total of of 74,000 miles on the original engine.

I know many things go into pricing, so I want to see what you guys say this car is worth, not just Tudors in general.

holdover · 05-24-2019, 10:09 PM

First off what does the guy want for it. Also what do you want to do with it. Do you want to do a restoration or leave it as a driver and fix the items you mentioned. Can you do the work yourself, or will you have to pay to have it done. As to drive ability, in my experience someone selling a vehicle might drive it even if it is unsafe, to make a sale, not saying that it is the case here. Are you new to Model As, if so I would get in touch with a local club and see if and experienced member can help you. Good luck..

chrs1961815 · 05-24-2019, 10:27 PM

I am not sure what the guy wants for it because he had it in an online auction and it didn't get up to his reserve. I would say anywhere to the 6 to 7 thousand range. I can do most if not all of the work because it is quite minor stuff (maybe not the headliner). I am part of a club near here and do have a 28 Roadster. I am somewhat new to the hobby, especially closed cars. I was thinking of having a fellow member come take a look but I wanted to see what the barners had to say.

I want to just keep it original, nothing fancy.

Charlie Stephens · 05-24-2019, 10:33 PM

Be sure the number on the title matches a number somewhere on the vehicle. Probably on the motor or on a tag installed on the door jam by the state DMV. Next possibility would be to pull the body and look for the number that is on the frame under the body. Definitely have a knowledgeable club member go with you to look at the car.

Charlie Stephens

chrs1961815 · 05-24-2019, 10:41 PM

Some pics:

CWPASADENA · 05-24-2019, 11:09 PM

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Actually, you can buy a headliner all made up for your Tudor.

A headliner is not difficult at all to install.

I would think 6-7K is in the ball park.

My opinion,

Chris W.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-24-2019, 11:23 PM

I was thinking the same thing as Chris.

ronn · 05-25-2019, 06:02 AM

6-7k is a bargain

grab it and dont look back.

drive it like you stole it!

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-25-2019, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronn

6-7k is a bargain

I am not going to argue or disagree with this, -however I'm not sure I would agree to that value either. There is WAY too much/many unknowns to make a statement like that based on my experience with similar cars.

For sake of pondering, let's just assume the engine is out of shims in the bottom end and needs to be rebuilt. How about the brakes, -are they as worn as the headliner? Maybe the steering gearbox and steering arms are worn with a lot of 'play'? Where we at on tires & tube? Are they hard as Chinese Arithmatic and will need to be replaced soon? What about the glass, ...is it all safety glass?? How much else do we not know about?

For a typical home hobbyist that needs to do all of the items above on a car, there is an easy $10k plus in parts PLUS probably 6 months of nights and weekends. There will be more expenses and labor by the time the headliner, headlights, shocks, exhaust, etc is added. To me I would need to physically inspect the car because in my mind, this a typical car needing a full restoration to reliably Start, Stop, & Steer.

chrs1961815 · 05-25-2019, 06:58 AM

The tires are another thing. They are Sears Allstate!

A headliner and a new top is relatively cheap, only a couple hundred bucks from classtique.

chap52 · 05-25-2019, 07:34 AM

Bottom line, "How much do you want to spend?" How much "fixin money" do you have set aside? It's your project, its your adventure and its your priority list to put it on.
Every car needs something, even if it's just cosmetic and a matter of personal preference.
You have been given some ballpark numbers, you decide what it is worth to you, get it for what you consider a good price and be ready for a few unknowns along the way.
Enjoy the adventure, Chap

chrs1961815 · 05-25-2019, 07:47 AM

I think a 1000 to 1500 needs to be set aside for some repairs as noted above plus new tires and tubes.

Jacksonlll · 05-25-2019, 08:47 AM

My number would not be over $5 K.

Tacoma Bob · 05-25-2019, 09:30 AM

Agree with #13. Let me break your heart. I bought my 30 Tudor in 2001. Paid $8 grand. It was decent. By the time it was over I put another $10 grand in it. It still needs minor body work and paint. It is still worth 10-12 Gs if I'm lucky. It depends on what you want out of the project. For many of us you realize too late that you might just as well save your money and buy a very nice "finished" car.........If they are ever finished.

MAG · 05-25-2019, 10:41 AM

Read Post #9 very carefully. I have done a few of these and you can spend $1K to $2K in a heart beat just for parts, freight and taxes. It can "eat your lunch"! Over $5K going in and you will be upside down before you realize it.

Ernie Vitucci · 05-25-2019, 10:42 AM

Good Morning...I would want to take this machine for a drive of 30 minutes or so and see how it does. How it runs, and stops. Is it quiet or noisy? Can you find out when the oil was changed last and what sort of oil is in it. It is not a bad idea to ask if you can change the oil at your expense...pull the drain bolt and use a strainer to see what comes out with the oil. If there are bits of Babbitt or other foreign material...then you have learned that the engine may/most likely is not happy. Ask if you can at least pull the front break drums and see what the brakes look like...ask when it was greased last...check it as carefully as you would a pretty girl walking down the side walk...Ernie in Arizona

Dick Steinkamp · 05-25-2019, 10:46 AM

If you try to financially justify a classic car purchase...wether it be a "finished" car (they are NEVER "finished"

) or a project...you will be fooling yourself.

It's a hobby...like golf, fishing, or any other hobby. Count on it costing money that you will likely never recover. If that bothers you, it may not be the hobby for you.

If you can enjoy it as a hobby knowing that you probably paid too much for it and are probably sinking too much money into it, but that you are having tons of fun, meeting great people, having adventures you wouldn't have otherwise, getting the ego boost of solving and fixing problems...then go for it. It really doesn't matter if you pay $4k or $7k for it in the very end.

abachman3 · 05-25-2019, 11:02 AM

I agree that you need to drive it on a moderately long drive. Get a good feel for the condition. That will tell you if you need to do things immediately or later cosmetically. The price of 6-7,000 for a reasonable running driving car is not bad IMHO.

WHN · 05-25-2019, 11:07 AM

There was a well known song from the 60’s, “Just Walk On By”.

The few pictures you have posted make me think that you should reread B. Terry’s comments.

Looks like a project car waiting for a wallet.

Cool Hand Lurker · 05-25-2019, 11:08 AM

I agree with what Dick (#16) said.
And what you end up paying, plus cost of repairs, means nothing unless you don't have the money. Just be aware that it will be more than you thought. Accept the fact that you will not get it back when you sell.
Then drive and enjoy.

chrs1961815 · 05-25-2019, 03:34 PM

Is a Fordor better and worth more?

mreman · 05-25-2019, 04:38 PM

You can go to Italy for 3 weeks and it will cost you about 5k a week; you can take that car and put 10k or 15k in it and drive it on a tour of 3-4 weeks and enjoy it as much and make some life long Model A friends while your doing it.

I have done that with my coupe and my tudor. I would not give up either trip.
John

chrs1961815 · 05-25-2019, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mreman

You can go to Italy for 3 weeks and it will cost you about 5k a week; you can take that car and put 10k or 15k in it and drive it on a tour of 3-4 weeks and enjoy it as much and make some life long Model A friends while your doing it.

I have done that with my coupe and my tudor. I would not give up either trip.
John

Well said, well said. I don't care about losing a little money, especially with all of the experiences that come with these cars which are priceless. At this point, it is very hard to make money from buying a car and restoring it. Most of the times you either break even or are in the red. But if it is from the heart, I guess it does not matter.

ronn · 05-25-2019, 06:12 PM

funny how you guys love to be debbie downers over 1000. bucks........

play a few rounds of golf or go see a shrink and tell me how much that set you back?

whether the car is 4k or 7k- who cares?

are you having fun yet????????????

Bob C · 05-25-2019, 07:39 PM

A LOT of wood in a Fordor unless you get a slant whindshield.

chrs1961815 · 05-25-2019, 08:07 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

A LOT of wood in a Fordor unless you get a slant whindshield.

Does the extra wood make it more valuable!

jm29henry · 05-25-2019, 08:54 PM

If the wood is bad then it would probably costs more to restore, if you belong to a model a club I bet the members would allow you to check out their cars and you can judge better what might car would better suit your needs

jm29henry · 05-25-2019, 08:58 PM

Chris I believe if you can be a little patient the right car will find you. But if this car is talking keep listening best of luck to you Joe

CWPASADENA · 05-25-2019, 09:53 PM

Fordors and Tudors are both sedans but they are different kind of cars.

Fordors are usually more formal and upscale.

Tudors were the entry level sedan and they sold a ton of them.

Fordors usually have a lot of wood that can be a problem and difficult to deal with.

Tudors are mostly steel with most of the wood in the upper part of the body where it is not as subject to rot. Replacing wood in a Tudor soes not require disassemble of the body itself.

Fordors are a little heavier so for the same horsepower, the performance is not quite as good as a Tudor.

Tudors have big front doors and are easier to get into and out of.

The seats in a Tudor can be easily moved back to give you more leg room.

Fordor seats are more comfortable than Tudor seats.

If you are going to use a Tudor for long distance touring, it is easy to retrofit more modern seats that are more comfortable.

Tudors make very good tour cars. They are lighter, have big front doors, the seats can be easily moved back or replaced (upgraded) and the rear seat area is very spacious so you have lots of room to carry all your stuff.

A Tudor is usually not as valuable that a Fordor in the same condition.

Both body styles have their advantages. You have to decide for yourself what you are looking for and how you are going to use the car.

I think the most important thing is to buy a car that is basically sound with minimal or no rot or rust issues. You have to factor in how much of the needed work you can do and what your expectations are for the car. Beings you already have a Model A, you have an understanding what these cars are all about.

About 5 years ago, I bought a Vicky. It looked decent from 20 feet and was basically sound with very little rust and rot issues. However the brakes were bad, the cooling system was a mess, the rear end leaked very bad, the windows would not work very well, the shocks had been replaced with some old aftermarket friction units, it had some terrible rattles in it. and the engine itself was marginal and it would hardly run.

I have picked at the car over the past five years and have taken care of all the mechanical issues except the engine (which I have the new one all finished and ready to install). I have too much money in the car but I like it and have enjoyed fixing all the stuff that needed attention. To me, that is what is important. I like the looks of the car and it draws a lot of attention when I take it out for a drive. It has even bigger front doors than my Tudor.

Again, these are just my opinions.

Chris W.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-26-2019, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

I think a 1000 to 1500 needs to be set aside for some repairs as noted above plus new tires and tubes.

Again, I am not trying to be a 'Debbie Downer' but I AM going on record of saying I doubt you will even get started for that amount.

chrs1961815 · 05-26-2019, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Again, I am not trying to be a 'Debbie Downer' but I AM going on record of saying I doubt you will even get started for that amount.

Brent I redid the math already and I am looking at 1700 on the short side...

Ed in Maine · 05-26-2019, 09:03 AM

If the engine does not have a knock and doesn't drip too much oil you are in the ball park. Take a ride in it and verify that first and second gear are pleasingly quiet. Make sure you have a title if you are in a title state and have the owner sign the bill of sale. Then it is a case of buying what you like. Don't be afraid to offer less, have a maximum amount not to exceed and be prepared to say thank you for your time and walk away. Remember, you are the one who has the power, you are the one with the money! Have fun with it and don't look back. Over the years, I have purchased four antique cars and love everyone of them. Ed

Jacksonlll · 05-26-2019, 01:45 PM

I must repeat something a friend told me years ago. “Buy what you want, but keep in mind that there are a lot of A’s out there.” No reason to buy the first one you come across. Have fun with whatever you get. Overall, this is a low cost hobby.

Mulletwagon · 05-26-2019, 09:13 PM

As described sounds like an $8Kish vehicle on today's market. Of course, the right price is one that works for both the seller and buyer. Really rough non-running barn finds often go for at least $6K. If it is complete, running, and has no rust throughs it could be a good core to start with. If you can do all the work it is worth considering. Good Luck.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-26-2019, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

Brent I redid the math already and I am looking at 1700 on the short side...

Ok, if you feel you have a handle on what it needs and what the costs will be, then who am I to second guess your budget or your plan. Best wishes on your project!!

Cool Hand Lurker · 05-27-2019, 01:32 PM

Depending on where you live and who you talk to the price can vary a lot. Pay what you feel comfortable with. You don't have to justify it with anybody. After you buy it you will get the question from just about everybody "what did you pay for it?" and you don't have to tell them. I never do. If you do, it will probably be all around town within days and half the comments will be "he paid too much for it" and it really is nobody's business. Save yourself a lot of hassle.

Keith True · 05-27-2019, 03:43 PM

The low end for cars like that around here are set by the street rodders.I sold one for a woman a few years ago.They bought it in 1972,and the babbit was knocky.He used it around town until 2014,then it sat in his garage.Early 31 Tudor,lazer straight body and fenders,interior was just indian blankets on the springs.A lot of A guys looked at it and whined and tried to chisel,but that wasn't going to work for her.I sold it to a street rod guy for $6500.I winched it on my trailer and delivered it to him.The same day he sold the fenders and aprons to an original A guy for $1500.He tried to sell the original chassis for a year or so,but got disgusted with some of the offers from the A guys and he gave it to me.

aermotor · 05-27-2019, 03:45 PM

Brent, I think most people are able to get a reasonable grip on the cost of Start, Stop and Steer whether it be do it yourself plus some minor machine work or professionally accomplished. The real question of value of a car is the engine, trans. and rear end and the chance of finding that out for certain is after the purchase and at no small cost to the new owner. I don't know about a big time worn out engine that runs good or the same for the trans. & diff. These are potential costs that a buyer should be aware of. What would a person be looking at $ wise if any one (or all) of these were near their end?

John

ronn · 05-27-2019, 03:56 PM

John,
a couple schools of thought on your question to Brent...........

Is the car going to see much mileage on a yearly basis, or sit in the garage and get driven 2k miles a yr in summer?

Guys on here have easily spent 10k on their engines. For the driving I do, Im a firm believer in buying an engine for 250-400. from a rodder, who doesnt want it, install it and drive it into the ground. You can see where Im going with this from a cost basis..........
so everything isnt always black and white and if you dont spend a million on your A, it is going to be a piece of junk.
Showcars, yes, that's a diff story and not most guys here looking for 1000 points.

05-24-2019, 10:09 PM	#2
holdover Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: SW Virginia near the Blue ridge Parkway Posts: 674	Re: Tudor Value First off what does the guy want for it. Also what do you want to do with it. Do you want to do a restoration or leave it as a driver and fix the items you mentioned. Can you do the work yourself, or will you have to pay to have it done. As to drive ability, in my experience someone selling a vehicle might drive it even if it is unsafe, to make a sale, not saying that it is the case here. Are you new to Model As, if so I would get in touch with a local club and see if and experienced member can help you. Good luck..

05-24-2019, 10:27 PM	#3
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Tudor Value I am not sure what the guy wants for it because he had it in an online auction and it didn't get up to his reserve. I would say anywhere to the 6 to 7 thousand range. I can do most if not all of the work because it is quite minor stuff (maybe not the headliner). I am part of a club near here and do have a 28 Roadster. I am somewhat new to the hobby, especially closed cars. I was thinking of having a fellow member come take a look but I wanted to see what the barners had to say. I want to just keep it original, nothing fancy. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-24-2019, 10:33 PM	#4
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,032	Re: Tudor Value Be sure the number on the title matches a number somewhere on the vehicle. Probably on the motor or on a tag installed on the door jam by the state DMV. Next possibility would be to pull the body and look for the number that is on the frame under the body. Definitely have a knowledgeable club member go with you to look at the car. Charlie Stephens

05-24-2019, 11:09 PM	#6
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,884	Re: Tudor Value Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Actually, you can buy a headliner all made up for your Tudor. A headliner is not difficult at all to install. I would think 6-7K is in the ball park. My opinion, Chris W.

05-24-2019, 11:23 PM	#7
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Tudor Value I was thinking the same thing as Chris.

05-24-2019, 09:18 PM	#1
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Tudor Value You might have seen my previous thread about a 29 Tudor I have been looking at. I want to discuss how much the car is worth. The car is mostly original to start with. It has been touched up in the paint department and has had new interior which some of it is accurate (door panels) others not (seats). New wiring was put in a while ago and now needs to probably be replaced. Headlights were converted to sealed beams but they do not work. Looks like the fuel lines are either in really good shape or are repros. The wheels were also repainted with a yellowish color. Also, the dash panel is held in by phillips head screws. It will need new wiring, a new terminal box (it is cracked and the cover is missing), a new headliner (if I'm picky), maybe a new top, maybe new floorboards, a new front mat, and it probably would not be a bad idea to replace all the gaskets. The carburetor leaks a lot so will need to be serviced. The positive stuff is that everything is in great shape with no rust outs just a little surface rust on the undercarriage and a few other spots. It runs great with no odd sounds as far as I could tell. The owner is a nice guy who says he is the second owner. We are working on tracing the cars history back. The guy drove it a bit and everything must be somewhat okay if he feels comfortable to drive it (steering and brakes). Also, the car is very close to us so we can drive it home. It has got a title, and has been driven very little by the current owner (since the 80s). The car has a total of of 74,000 miles on the original engine. I know many things go into pricing, so I want to see what you guys say this car is worth, not just Tudors in general. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-25-2019, 06:02 AM	#8
ronn Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ Posts: 6,789	Re: Tudor Value 6-7k is a bargain grab it and dont look back. drive it like you stole it!

05-25-2019, 06:58 AM	#10
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Tudor Value The tires are another thing. They are Sears Allstate! A headliner and a new top is relatively cheap, only a couple hundred bucks from classtique. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-25-2019, 07:34 AM	#11
chap52 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Marana Arizona Posts: 1,776	Re: Tudor Value Bottom line, "How much do you want to spend?" How much "fixin money" do you have set aside? It's your project, its your adventure and its your priority list to put it on. Every car needs something, even if it's just cosmetic and a matter of personal preference. You have been given some ballpark numbers, you decide what it is worth to you, get it for what you consider a good price and be ready for a few unknowns along the way. Enjoy the adventure, Chap

05-25-2019, 07:47 AM	#12
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Tudor Value I think a 1000 to 1500 needs to be set aside for some repairs as noted above plus new tires and tubes. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-25-2019, 08:47 AM	#13
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Tudor Value My number would not be over $5 K.

05-25-2019, 09:30 AM	#14
Tacoma Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 1,025	Re: Tudor Value Agree with #13. Let me break your heart. I bought my 30 Tudor in 2001. Paid $8 grand. It was decent. By the time it was over I put another $10 grand in it. It still needs minor body work and paint. It is still worth 10-12 Gs if I'm lucky. It depends on what you want out of the project. For many of us you realize too late that you might just as well save your money and buy a very nice "finished" car.........If they are ever finished.

05-25-2019, 10:41 AM	#15
MAG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 925	Re: Tudor Value Read Post #9 very carefully. I have done a few of these and you can spend $1K to $2K in a heart beat just for parts, freight and taxes. It can "eat your lunch"! Over $5K going in and you will be upside down before you realize it. __________________ I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get!

05-25-2019, 10:42 AM	#16
Ernie Vitucci Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona Posts: 612	Re: Tudor Value Good Morning...I would want to take this machine for a drive of 30 minutes or so and see how it does. How it runs, and stops. Is it quiet or noisy? Can you find out when the oil was changed last and what sort of oil is in it. It is not a bad idea to ask if you can change the oil at your expense...pull the drain bolt and use a strainer to see what comes out with the oil. If there are bits of Babbitt or other foreign material...then you have learned that the engine may/most likely is not happy. Ask if you can at least pull the front break drums and see what the brakes look like...ask when it was greased last...check it as carefully as you would a pretty girl walking down the side walk...Ernie in Arizona

05-25-2019, 10:46 AM	#17
Dick Steinkamp Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 1,163	Re: Tudor Value If you try to financially justify a classic car purchase...wether it be a "finished" car (they are NEVER "finished" ) or a project...you will be fooling yourself. It's a hobby...like golf, fishing, or any other hobby. Count on it costing money that you will likely never recover. If that bothers you, it may not be the hobby for you. If you can enjoy it as a hobby knowing that you probably paid too much for it and are probably sinking too much money into it, but that you are having tons of fun, meeting great people, having adventures you wouldn't have otherwise, getting the ego boost of solving and fixing problems...then go for it. It really doesn't matter if you pay $4k or $7k for it in the very end. __________________ All steel from pedal to wheel

05-25-2019, 11:02 AM	#18
abachman3 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Western Springs, IL Posts: 324	Re: Tudor Value I agree that you need to drive it on a moderately long drive. Get a good feel for the condition. That will tell you if you need to do things immediately or later cosmetically. The price of 6-7,000 for a reasonable running driving car is not bad IMHO.

05-25-2019, 11:07 AM	#19
WHN Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Connecticut Shoreline Posts: 1,823	Re: Tudor Value There was a well known song from the 60’s, “Just Walk On By”. The few pictures you have posted make me think that you should reread B. Terry’s comments. Looks like a project car waiting for a wallet.

05-25-2019, 11:08 AM	#20
Cool Hand Lurker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Minn Posts: 1,565	Re: Tudor Value I agree with what Dick (#16) said. And what you end up paying, plus cost of repairs, means nothing unless you don't have the money. Just be aware that it will be more than you thought. Accept the fact that you will not get it back when you sell. Then drive and enjoy.

05-25-2019, 03:34 PM	#21
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Tudor Value Is a Fordor better and worth more? __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

05-25-2019, 04:38 PM	#22
mreman Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Temple City, CA. Posts: 34	Re: Tudor Value You can go to Italy for 3 weeks and it will cost you about 5k a week; you can take that car and put 10k or 15k in it and drive it on a tour of 3-4 weeks and enjoy it as much and make some life long Model A friends while your doing it. I have done that with my coupe and my tudor. I would not give up either trip. John

05-25-2019, 06:12 PM	#24
ronn Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ Posts: 6,789	Re: Tudor Value funny how you guys love to be debbie downers over 1000. bucks........ play a few rounds of golf or go see a shrink and tell me how much that set you back? whether the car is 4k or 7k- who cares? are you having fun yet????????????

05-25-2019, 07:39 PM	#25
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,753	Re: Tudor Value A LOT of wood in a Fordor unless you get a slant whindshield.

05-25-2019, 08:54 PM	#27
jm29henry Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: michigan Posts: 1,126	Re: Tudor Value If the wood is bad then it would probably costs more to restore, if you belong to a model a club I bet the members would allow you to check out their cars and you can judge better what might car would better suit your needs

05-25-2019, 08:58 PM	#28
jm29henry Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: michigan Posts: 1,126	Re: Tudor Value Chris I believe if you can be a little patient the right car will find you. But if this car is talking keep listening best of luck to you Joe

05-25-2019, 09:53 PM	#29
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,884	Re: Tudor Value Fordors and Tudors are both sedans but they are different kind of cars. Fordors are usually more formal and upscale. Tudors were the entry level sedan and they sold a ton of them. Fordors usually have a lot of wood that can be a problem and difficult to deal with. Tudors are mostly steel with most of the wood in the upper part of the body where it is not as subject to rot. Replacing wood in a Tudor soes not require disassemble of the body itself. Fordors are a little heavier so for the same horsepower, the performance is not quite as good as a Tudor. Tudors have big front doors and are easier to get into and out of. The seats in a Tudor can be easily moved back to give you more leg room. Fordor seats are more comfortable than Tudor seats. If you are going to use a Tudor for long distance touring, it is easy to retrofit more modern seats that are more comfortable. Tudors make very good tour cars. They are lighter, have big front doors, the seats can be easily moved back or replaced (upgraded) and the rear seat area is very spacious so you have lots of room to carry all your stuff. A Tudor is usually not as valuable that a Fordor in the same condition. Both body styles have their advantages. You have to decide for yourself what you are looking for and how you are going to use the car. I think the most important thing is to buy a car that is basically sound with minimal or no rot or rust issues. You have to factor in how much of the needed work you can do and what your expectations are for the car. Beings you already have a Model A, you have an understanding what these cars are all about. About 5 years ago, I bought a Vicky. It looked decent from 20 feet and was basically sound with very little rust and rot issues. However the brakes were bad, the cooling system was a mess, the rear end leaked very bad, the windows would not work very well, the shocks had been replaced with some old aftermarket friction units, it had some terrible rattles in it. and the engine itself was marginal and it would hardly run. I have picked at the car over the past five years and have taken care of all the mechanical issues except the engine (which I have the new one all finished and ready to install). I have too much money in the car but I like it and have enjoyed fixing all the stuff that needed attention. To me, that is what is important. I like the looks of the car and it draws a lot of attention when I take it out for a drive. It has even bigger front doors than my Tudor. Again, these are just my opinions. Chris W. Last edited by CWPASADENA; 05-25-2019 at 10:00 PM. Reason: TYPOS

05-26-2019, 09:03 AM	#32
Ed in Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL Posts: 1,106	Re: Tudor Value If the engine does not have a knock and doesn't drip too much oil you are in the ball park. Take a ride in it and verify that first and second gear are pleasingly quiet. Make sure you have a title if you are in a title state and have the owner sign the bill of sale. Then it is a case of buying what you like. Don't be afraid to offer less, have a maximum amount not to exceed and be prepared to say thank you for your time and walk away. Remember, you are the one who has the power, you are the one with the money! Have fun with it and don't look back. Over the years, I have purchased four antique cars and love everyone of them. Ed

05-26-2019, 01:45 PM	#33
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Tudor Value I must repeat something a friend told me years ago. “Buy what you want, but keep in mind that there are a lot of A’s out there.” No reason to buy the first one you come across. Have fun with whatever you get. Overall, this is a low cost hobby.

05-26-2019, 09:13 PM	#34
Mulletwagon Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Florida Panhandle Posts: 585	Re: Tudor Value As described sounds like an $8Kish vehicle on today's market. Of course, the right price is one that works for both the seller and buyer. Really rough non-running barn finds often go for at least $6K. If it is complete, running, and has no rust throughs it could be a good core to start with. If you can do all the work it is worth considering. Good Luck.

05-27-2019, 01:32 PM	#36
Cool Hand Lurker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Minn Posts: 1,565	Re: Tudor Value Depending on where you live and who you talk to the price can vary a lot. Pay what you feel comfortable with. You don't have to justify it with anybody. After you buy it you will get the question from just about everybody "what did you pay for it?" and you don't have to tell them. I never do. If you do, it will probably be all around town within days and half the comments will be "he paid too much for it" and it really is nobody's business. Save yourself a lot of hassle.

05-27-2019, 03:43 PM	#37
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,987	Re: Tudor Value The low end for cars like that around here are set by the street rodders.I sold one for a woman a few years ago.They bought it in 1972,and the babbit was knocky.He used it around town until 2014,then it sat in his garage.Early 31 Tudor,lazer straight body and fenders,interior was just indian blankets on the springs.A lot of A guys looked at it and whined and tried to chisel,but that wasn't going to work for her.I sold it to a street rod guy for $6500.I winched it on my trailer and delivered it to him.The same day he sold the fenders and aprons to an original A guy for $1500.He tried to sell the original chassis for a year or so,but got disgusted with some of the offers from the A guys and he gave it to me.

05-27-2019, 03:45 PM	#38
aermotor Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,099	Re: Tudor Value Brent, I think most people are able to get a reasonable grip on the cost of Start, Stop and Steer whether it be do it yourself plus some minor machine work or professionally accomplished. The real question of value of a car is the engine, trans. and rear end and the chance of finding that out for certain is after the purchase and at no small cost to the new owner. I don't know about a big time worn out engine that runs good or the same for the trans. & diff. These are potential costs that a buyer should be aware of. What would a person be looking at $ wise if any one (or all) of these were near their end? John

05-27-2019, 03:56 PM	#39
ronn Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ Posts: 6,789	Re: Tudor Value John, a couple schools of thought on your question to Brent........... Is the car going to see much mileage on a yearly basis, or sit in the garage and get driven 2k miles a yr in summer? Guys on here have easily spent 10k on their engines. For the driving I do, Im a firm believer in buying an engine for 250-400. from a rodder, who doesnt want it, install it and drive it into the ground. You can see where Im going with this from a cost basis.......... so everything isnt always black and white and if you dont spend a million on your A, it is going to be a piece of junk. Showcars, yes, that's a diff story and not most guys here looking for 1000 points.