26 Tmotor

[yachtsmanbill]

The builder in question is located in Warrsaw NY and is called valve-en-blocks and came highly recommended by Macs auto parts .



That statement just covered the next 100 or so questions. They probably get a huge discount from macs for tons of junk parts and in return get lots of referals as a "quality" rebuilder... ws

[Steve Jelf]

Mac's? Uh-oh.

Let's go back to the beginning. Here's most of the information you're going to need.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

[J and M Machine]

I decided to pull the rest of the shortbock apart for inspection and found the center main bearing oil passage packed full of babbit scrapings, after cleaning that out i decided to check bearing clearances, and found .003 on the rods and .002 on the front main and .003 on the center and rear main. not sure but that seems a little on the big side for a fresh engine, but i'm new to model T's so i'm looking for advice on this.

Also after pulling the valves i discovered a small crack through one of the valve seats, will this be ok to leave alone or should i have the seat replaced?

Thanks again
Scott[/QUOTE]


Scott: after reading your tale of woe I'll bet you're glad now you looked into the engine or you would of been out all of the money.!


The rods and mains should have a clearance of .0015" if there isn't any end play in the crank I would check and see why.Should have at least .004"

The cracked valve seat should of been addressed while the engine was being rebuilt.! I've enclosed a picture of a crack that has been repaired in the valve seat,then we install the seat.

Furthermore the time for us or any good shop to do a Model T is 3-4 weeks.

www.jandm-machine.com
http://www.jandm-machine.com/project...ianModelT.html

[fordman67]

What clearence on mains and rods on an engine that has been run and babbit is good but not new? Sorry for the hijack but got no response otherwise.
I dislike macs.poor quality and backorders galore..

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by fordman67

What clearence on mains and rods on an engine that has been run and babbit is good but not new? Sorry for the hijack but got no response otherwise.
I dislike macs.poor quality and backorders galore..

Rods, and Mains. .001-25, to .001-50

You should never go under 1 thousandths per inch of crank diameter.

[CharlieB]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Nuts.

[fordman67]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Rods, and Mains. .001-25, to .001-50

You should never go under 1 thousandths per inch of crank diameter.

Thank you! Hope to be assembling soon.

Any news on the engine situation OP?

[redmodelt]

You should have shims on mains. The description of your mains, they a poor job of workmanship and my OP are junk and should be redone. So far from you discription I think this would be more the a $1000 refund. Next time check and get references of people that have used any Babbetter or re-builder.
The crack in the valve seat can and should have been fixed. How was the fitment of the pistons and valve stems and lifters?

[visionary]

Quick update on my T motor, the individual that was highly recomended has issued a full refund minus parts. and the motor is now currently at snyders in Ohio.

The rebuilder told me that he dosen't like to do nor is used to doing work for someone that complains so much. he said he couldn't understand why i was being so fussy as it's just a Tmotor. i told him it didn't matter if it was a lawn mower engine, you cant get away with cracked exhaust seats. and clearance on the mains ranging from .000 to .028 and oil supply passageways to the mains completely pluged solid with babbit scrapings, and the cam ready to fall out

After pulling the pistons out i still needed a breaker bar to turn the crank over? when i brought it back to him he wanted to know what I did to it as it was fine when delivered?

After some discussion he came to the conclusion that his boring bar is worn out and time for new bushings and cutters, i think some of these shoddy rebuilders out there rely on many customers not knowing what there looking at, and only driving there car a couple hundred miles a year. and at that rate could take a decade to rear it's ugly head.

[yachtsmanbill]

Man did you luck out... couldve been a trip to La Vanderia. So the guy soaked you for pistons, valves and lifters etc. Did he work his magic on the trans too?
Sounds like a new block babbit and line bore at the least. Hope the bore job didnt tear up the block too bad. I guess I am pretty lucky... the last 3 or 4 motors I did had standard bores, decent (not cracked) seats and good cranks and mains. Even the last one had good timing gears left in it.
Good luck and keep us posted! ws

[jackdaron]

I'm glad you got some satisfaction from this guy. I would check with a lawyer first and then consider giving im some "Free" advertizing.

[redmodelt]

He is full of SH@T. So I guess he feels the same about Model A or any engine he rebuild!!!! They are just old cars. What Jack says.

[tombia]

I know this. A T engine built right is a thing of beauty when it is running right. Sounds sappy I know, But it is true. Sometimes I just start my T up to hear it run. Mine was done 46 years ago by an old Ford mechanic.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by tombia

I know this. A T engine built right is a thing of beauty when it is running right. Sounds sappy I know, But it is true. Sometimes I just start my T up to hear it run. Mine was done 46 years ago by an old Ford mechanic.

I feel the same way, Model T engines are a thing of beauty!

[austinhunt]

It's the fault of my generation...everything is disposable. I'm sorry to read this, but I have to say that it happens too often.

I hope try number two is the charm!

[visionary]

Quick update, just got back home from snyders with my motor, as it turns out the motor was in even worse shape than i thought, they found that the crank was bent, the piston pins to long, new tappets loose in the bores and a 3" crack in the block.

It looks like they did a real nice job on the short block, so hopefully i can start putting things back together and have it running in a few weeks as time allows.

While i got yous guys attention i was looking at the head gasket that came in the set i had gotten from macs, and i had thought it was solid copper like the ones i use in my funny car. but after removing it from the plastic wrap, it's just got a thin laminate of copper over some kind of composit material. that dosen't bother me but after looking at it close you can see that the copper cladding from one side is folded over onto the other side,and doesn't look like it would make a good seal.

so my question is have you seen this type of gasket? do they seal ok? on the solid copper gaskets i usualy use the copper spray. but on these i'm tempted to use some red high temp silicone. or should i just shit can this gasket and go with something else?

Thanks
Scott

[jackdaron]

Use the copper head gasket sealer and you should be ok.

[32forddump]

I just had my t model engine rebuilt by a a guy in East Schodack , ny. and it cost me $2200.00. New poistons, cyllinders bored and sleeved,valve seats,valves and lifters, cam and crank turned, and all new babbit work. He resurfaced the block and the head as well.
He came highly recommended by the Early Ford v8 club of new york. He stands behind his work and rebuilds model T< A, B, and flat heads. He has a machine shop in his garage and has been rebuilding engines since he was a kid with his father. I had the engine back in less than 2 months., and he is now rebuilding my transmission. I have been referring him to anyone interested in having the work done. Sorry to hear about the problems you had with your engine, I hoipe all is well now.

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Scott... does that gasket overfold appear as a fire ring or around the outside perimeter? All mine have an open edge on the outside with a good copper seal around the chamber. The new copper is really soft and the fiber composite is also pretty accomodating. It should all squeeze together with little problem sealing. Spray some copper coat on it so itll slide into the flat position when pulling the head down.
At 50-60 psi sealing isnt too difficult. Ive re-used old gaskets that were bent in half (some worse!) out of necessity and they ran fine. These arent 13:1s or have have a blower putting the squeeze on it. Itll be hunky dory...
Now if you have CNC capabilities you can cut the deck and o-ring (?) it.
;-)) ws

[visionary]

Gentlemen, thanks for the quick replies. bill the excess material is folded around the cylinder openings and probably is designed as a fire ring as you mentioned, i just never thought of that! but i knew you guys have probably seen and used every style head gasket out there and would know if it would be ok, so i'll spray some copper and run it. i think if i remember hearing correct torque to around 45 50?

32forddump, thanks for the info if you can pm me with your guys phone # for future projects, not sure where east shodack ny is but im in western ny not to far from snyders about 3 hrs. so it wasn't to bad. actually there's a guy in clarence ny about 10 miles from me that does A motors but he doesn't have fixtures for doing the T babbit yet.

Jack thanks again for the con rods and the good advice.


Scott Hohensee