The Ford Barn

Kpar · 05-02-2021, 09:32 PM

Got some wet feet on the last run so decided to check things out.
Cowl vent flap was always way below the cowl when closed.
Got a new rubber from 3 gen. Rubber a lot thicker.
Easy job I thought & then found out I'm not as flexible as I was 30 years ago.
to make it worse some bolts were metric, one whitworth and one UNF.
Question,
1. Should I build up the channel before installing the rubber ?.
2. Should I glue the rubber ?.
3. Is the edge facing up correct

tubman · 05-02-2021, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kpar

Got some wet feet on the last run so decided to check things out.
Cowl vent flap was always way below the cowl when closed.
Got a new rubber from 3 gen. Rubber a lot thicker.
Easy job I thought & then found out I'm not as flexible as I was 30 years ago.
to make it worse some bolts were metric, one whitworth and one UNF.
Question,
1. Should I build up the channel before installing the rubber ?.
2. Should I glue the rubber ?.
3. Is the edge facing up correct

Does this happen often down under?

Kpar · 05-02-2021, 09:53 PM

In central QLD it can happen anytime
Kpar

koates · 05-03-2021, 12:44 AM

I have never believed that these reproduction 33-34 cowl vent gaskets were ever made to the correct thickness. You could cut one from thin flat rubber and glue it onto your original repro one to make it a bit thicker so that the vent door sits level when closed with the cowl panel. I would not glue it down in the bottom of the channel because that may prevent any water from reaching the drain hole and tube. I think the edge should face down in the channel so as to allow any water to run under the rubber to the drain hole. The rubber is not supposed to seal into the channel bottom. Regards, Kevin.

FlatheadTed · 05-03-2021, 01:03 AM

Kpar As well as Kevin s have a good look at your channel pour some water into it with the rubber out the upper channel should catch any that gets past the rubber if it should fill up then any spill over should be cort by the secondary lower channel and feed out the drain tube ,Lower one is often rusted , the Ones I have fitted I glue the flat side to the lid the lower part seams to fit the channel ,not sure if its right

koates · 05-03-2021, 01:10 AM

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Keith, not sure there is a need to unbolt the vent door. Should be able to fit the gasket over the door with out unbolting the door. Regards, Kevin.

Kpar · 05-03-2021, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koates

Keith, not sure there is a need to unbolt the vent door. Should be able to fit the gasket over the door with out unbolting the door. Regards, Kevin.

Kevin I had to unbolt the vent flap as previous builder used a heap of silicone to glue it down. There also seems to be different opinions on which way the ridge faces up or down ?.
Kpar

Lawrie · 05-03-2021, 05:09 AM

Kieth , have you got the new rubber, I have just got one and you can have it as its so different to tho one fitted to our 33.
If you are removing the flap give me a call so two of us will do it no drama.
I ended up reusing my old rubber.
Lawrie

mercman from oz · 05-03-2021, 05:51 AM

Trying to make the Cowl Vent on a 1933 Ford Sedan water tight.

DavidG · 05-03-2021, 08:30 AM

The lip, which is a modern addition to improve the seal should be up, not down. There is no drain hole beneath the channel where the rubber is installed; the drain hole is in the inner channel where there is no rubber seal. Notwithstanding, I never glue my seals in place.

The problem with the replacement seals isn't so much that they are too thick, but rather not soft enough for the lid to form a depression and therefore a good seal. You may have to install the seal and place the cover on it (unattached) and place a serious amount of weight on top of it for a week or so to depress it down even with the rest of the cowl top.

FlatheadTed · 05-03-2021, 03:36 PM

,my sedan is not Glued but I notice the seal is shrunk doesn't line up when closing ,

Kpar · 05-03-2021, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Kieth , have you got the new rubber, I have just got one and you can have it as its so different to tho one fitted to our 33.
If you are removing the flap give me a call so two of us will do it no drama.
I ended up reusing my old rubber.
Lawrie

I finally got the flap off but may need your help in fitting it back.
I got the rubber from 3rd Gen with a ridge. Is this where you got yours ?.
Keith

05-02-2021, 09:53 PM	#3
Kpar Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Gladstone QLD Australia Posts: 324	Re: 33 Cowl Vent In central QLD it can happen anytime Kpar

05-03-2021, 12:44 AM	#4
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 33 Cowl Vent I have never believed that these reproduction 33-34 cowl vent gaskets were ever made to the correct thickness. You could cut one from thin flat rubber and glue it onto your original repro one to make it a bit thicker so that the vent door sits level when closed with the cowl panel. I would not glue it down in the bottom of the channel because that may prevent any water from reaching the drain hole and tube. I think the edge should face down in the channel so as to allow any water to run under the rubber to the drain hole. The rubber is not supposed to seal into the channel bottom. Regards, Kevin.

05-03-2021, 01:03 AM	#5
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,705	Re: 33 Cowl Vent Kpar As well as Kevin s have a good look at your channel pour some water into it with the rubber out the upper channel should catch any that gets past the rubber if it should fill up then any spill over should be cort by the secondary lower channel and feed out the drain tube ,Lower one is often rusted , the Ones I have fitted I glue the flat side to the lid the lower part seams to fit the channel ,not sure if its right __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,

05-03-2021, 01:10 AM	#6
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 33 Cowl Vent Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Keith, not sure there is a need to unbolt the vent door. Should be able to fit the gasket over the door with out unbolting the door. Regards, Kevin.

05-03-2021, 05:09 AM	#8
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,215	Re: 33 Cowl Vent Kieth , have you got the new rubber, I have just got one and you can have it as its so different to tho one fitted to our 33. If you are removing the flap give me a call so two of us will do it no drama. I ended up reusing my old rubber. Lawrie

05-03-2021, 05:51 AM	#9
mercman from oz Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Queensland, Australia Posts: 10,364	Re: 33 Cowl Vent Trying to make the Cowl Vent on a 1933 Ford Sedan water tight.

05-03-2021, 08:30 AM	#10
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 33 Cowl Vent The lip, which is a modern addition to improve the seal should be up, not down. There is no drain hole beneath the channel where the rubber is installed; the drain hole is in the inner channel where there is no rubber seal. Notwithstanding, I never glue my seals in place. The problem with the replacement seals isn't so much that they are too thick, but rather not soft enough for the lid to form a depression and therefore a good seal. You may have to install the seal and place the cover on it (unattached) and place a serious amount of weight on top of it for a week or so to depress it down even with the rest of the cowl top.

05-03-2021, 03:36 PM	#11
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,705	Re: 33 Cowl Vent ,my sedan is not Glued but I notice the seal is shrunk doesn't line up when closing , __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,