Complete 8BA Flathead - what can I expect to pay

[Pontiac787]

Hi All,

This is my first post. I’m looking at buying a Flathead as the start of a long term Model A project. I’ve found a few engines in my area ranging from $100 disassembled rust buckets to $2,500 rebuilt long blocks. I’m looking for something in between. I’ve found an 8BA engine that has been stored indoors since being removed from a running vehicle 10 years ago. The engine is complete from fan to clutch. The seller doesn’t want to pull the engine apart so I can get a look under the heads, which I understand. I let him know that not knowing the condition of the block would greatly affect the price I could pay.

What should I expect to pay for a complete engine with an “unknown” block?

Thank you!

[bobH]

good luck. The disassembled rust bucket was/is overpriced.
I've had real good luck getting a few (very few) that are unusable. You take your chances. It would be better if you knew the person, and he/she could vouch for the 'last running condition'. I once had luck with one where the owner said 'it sounded ok, but it's worn out and smokes.' That was the only one I got, where it seemed like I got what I expected and paid for.
Awhile back, 4-5 years, I picked up a group of three. For free. They were all overpriced.
There is an old post, maybe couple months ago. The post had to do with Bernie Long's estate sale. In that thread, there was a post by someone that H&H bought a group of Bernie's engines, maybe 75 or a hundred, and the price is posted, something like 50 or so, each, for the whole lot. That ought to give you some idea of what a professional, in the business, is paying for unknown engines. Look up the thread.

[Ziggster]

I paid CAN$100 for my disassembled C69 block which turned out to be ok for rebuild. I'm looking at another CAN$2000 plus in parts for a non-perf build. Add another CAN$2000 plus for perf heads, intake, and carb(s). I have no idea yet what the machine shop will charge for a short block, but I'm guessing CAN$1500 min. I've seen engines from CAN$500 up to CAN$4000 plus for everything from unknown, orig running, to rebuilt.

[Ziggster]

Some locally...

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...ationFlag=true

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true

[FortyNiner]

I'm always baffled by the insistence some sellers have about the quality of their item - provided you don't look too close. Stored inside is nice. Properly prepped for storage would be outstanding. $400 with the heads on and $700 if the heads are removed for your inspection. Short of complete disassembly, you are still at risk. My .02.

[deuce_roadster]

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You are always at risk. I think current scrap price on unknown engines is the best offer. Complete engines with heads, flywheel etc are 500 plus pounds, empty block with main caps around 200 lbs.
Keep in mind there are several tests the block must pass before you know for sure if it is good enough to rebuild and you will have a ton of hours into it and tests aren't free. This is just getting to the point where you know what you have.
If you spend a fair amount insist if the block is cracked badly or rusted past usefulness you can return it. My 2 cents.

[tubman]

I sold my 2nd to last good 8BA block (short block) two years ago for $800. The block had no visible cracks, and later passed magnafluxing and a pressure test. I sold the block with a money back guarantee. The guy was very happy to get it, as he had already been through 5 engines, all of which had cracked blocks. That being said, I would value an engine out of a running car stored inside way more than a "field engine". I have purchased 4 flatheads meeting these criteria, and all were good. Maybe I'm just lucky, but it's something to think about. I might take a gamble on one of these engines, but never on a "field find".

It's interesting to note that, during the period when I purchased these 8BA's, I NEVER ran across an earlier engine for sale.

[JSeery]

it's somewhat "you pay your money and you take your chances". Like Vegas, you just got to take you pick of the litter and see what you end up with. If you can get a guarantee that is great! But a lot of sellers won't do it. IF you are able to use a lot of the parts, then there is some value there. But I my case the block it about it, maybe a front cover and oil pan, but not much.

[leon bee]

That's a conundrum. If you need all of the engine, I mean if you don't already have any flathead parts, then I guess around here you'd offer $500 for that engine you mentioned. It's a gamble on the block, but you need the other stuff. You have to watch out or soon you'll have a big pile of heavy parts!

[RalphM]

I’ve bought six or so in the last few years, $100 to $300 depending on if it is stuck, turns over, runs, or has a Merc crank. But I’ve also been given a couple free ones, one of which is only good for main caps.
As said, it’s a crap shoot.


Oh yea, and I’ve got a BIG pile of heavy parts!

[mfirth]

Just for info, you may want to check : [email protected]. on The Early Ford V8 Club web site. m

[Pontiac787]

Thanks guys. That will put me in the ball prk of what to offer.

mfirth - thanks for the lead. the Maine border is only an hour away. Unfortunately, when I looked up Dan’s location he’s a good 6+ hours from me.

[Ol' Ron]

2500 bucks for a rebuilt long block, is a gift. Fnd out what was done to the engine and if there is any guarantee that the block is good. I asume the Long block has everything it needs to make it run?????

[Pontiac787]

That one was sold by the time I called. I don’t believe it had the intake or exhaust manifolds, carb, or starter.

[Pontiac787]

I went to look at the engine tonight. It didn’t look overly rusty and still had a crankcase full of oil. Unfortunately the owner didn’t even want to play ball with my offer of $200. One thing that worried me is that I don’t believe the block was drained after it was removed. I assume simply removing the hoses from the water pumps won’t get the water/coolant from the low points in the block.

[Ol' Ron]

IF he want's more money, he has to stand by the block. Offer him 500 bucks providing the block is good.

[JSeery]

Flatheads are prone to cracks and not just related to water freezing in the block. There are often cracks between the bolt/studs, between them and the bore, between the valves and between the valves and the bore. Some matter and some don't. There are other locations prone to cracks. Blocks have to be pressure tested to verify they are usable. Even a running motor can have issues when taken apart. That's what makes find a good block so difficult.

[Ziggster]

Each of us has either knowingly or unknowingly a “risk appetite”. Only you know what yours is. If you’re risk adverse, then you need to pay for something that someone can either guarantee or offer a refund. Paying more doesn’t necessarily equate to less risk. If you are in no rush, take your time until you find something that you are comfortable with.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Pontiac787

Hi All,

This is my first post. I’m looking at buying a Flathead as the start of a long term Model A project. I’ve found a few engines in my area ranging from $100 disassembled rust buckets to $2,500 rebuilt long blocks. I’m looking for something in between. I’ve found an 8BA engine that has been stored indoors since being removed from a running vehicle 10 years ago. The engine is complete from fan to clutch. The seller doesn’t want to pull the engine apart so I can get a look under the heads, which I understand. I let him know that not knowing the condition of the block would greatly affect the price I could pay.

What should I expect to pay for a complete engine with an “unknown” block?

Thank you!

Hi (name), if you could expand on what your final goal is with respect to a finished build, in other words what are some of the other parts you'd be needing once you find an OK block, I may be able to help some (with an 8BA only)?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I would have no problem paying a bit extra IF the block you find is OK, it would definitely need to pass a pressure test AND a mag test, both. If you do a "guaranteed" deal I would have in writing, maybe even to the extent of having the paper notarized. This is all from a 100% business standpoint. The rules do vary if you know the seller really well!

[RalphM]

“If you are in no rush, take your time until you find something that you are comfortable with.”

Exactly! Let it be known that your looking, and eventually you will find one. Just don’t give up if the first one isn’t perfect.
I went to an old 50’s junkyard about 10-15 years ago, they were crushing all the steel, but the guy was trying to sell stuff before the crusher arrived. I saw about five or six flatheads in the mud and pretty crusty, but one was in a early 40’s COE. It was a 29A and it turned over. I was talking to the guy and might have got it for a few hundred, but his buddy from out of town said where he was from they were worth at least a $1000 each in that condition, but he didn’t want it.
Well, I didn’t buy it, but someone bought the COE cab and pulled it, engine probably sat in the weather till the crusher arrived. I can only hope someone saved it
Anyway, point is I now have a garage and shed, full of flatheads!