The Ford Barn

OL JENNY · 01-22-2016, 09:32 AM

I'm planning on moving my disconnect switch from the starter bolt location in the engine compartment to a location where the switch will be in front of the drivers seat. I am doing this on a 1930 Tudor. My question is for those of you who have done this, how have you extended the shaft with the handle through the floorboards or frame. I do not have machine shop skills, but they are obviously available. Thanks

rscardina · 01-22-2016, 09:48 AM

I cut a hole in my floorboard to allow access and still be able to cover it with the carpet.

I used an existing hole in the cross member.

ccb360 · 01-22-2016, 01:43 PM

Mounted this type switch recently to seat frame just behind left foot area. No handle extension needed. Used 1/2" conduit punch for the switch clearance hole and also for passing cables (via insulated bushings) through floor pan. Routed cables over cross member at frame under floorboard. One cable to 6V battery (+) and other cable to frame ground connection with a jumper to transmission cover bolt. Switch can be readily operated while seated and is out of general view.

Hook · 01-22-2016, 04:06 PM

I added the extension to get mine to work without drilling more holes in the car. I bought some aluminum round stock from Fleet Farm slightly larger than the shaft on the disconnect. I cut it the length I needed and used a drill press to drill a hole in the top, threaded it for the screw in the handle. I used a grinder to shape the top of the shaft to accommodate the wedge shape in the handle. Crude but functional.
Then I drilled two holes in the bottom part of the extension that I threaded for set screws. It worked fine for a month or so, then the set screws got loose. I drilled slight indents in the shaft of the disconnect so the set screws would actually sink into the shaft slightly, then set them with lock tite.
Crude but it works great.

OL JENNY · 01-23-2016, 09:21 AM

Hook, did you drill out the bottom of your aluminum extension rod to slip over the shaft of the disconnect?

30Ford · 01-23-2016, 10:29 AM

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I put mine on the bottom of my seat ..driver side..a few rubber bushings ..properly tape or heat shrunk .. no problems..will get pics

Hook · 01-24-2016, 08:40 AM

Hook, did you drill out the bottom of your aluminum extension rod to slip over the shaft of the disconnect?

Yes, I drilled out the bottom of the extension so it would slip over the shaft on the disconnect. Then drilled holes in the side and tapped for set screws to hold it.

OL JENNY · 01-24-2016, 09:14 AM

Thanks to all for your answers and advice. I appreciate your help.

Mitch//pa · 01-24-2016, 09:24 AM

I put the switch under the seat in my 30 Tudor .. Used a hole saw to bore the wood so the switch body slides up into it then drilled a small hole for the stem to stick through.. No extension needed the way I did it..

OL JENNY · 01-24-2016, 10:06 AM

Mitch do you then loosen the switch if you need to remove the plywood floor boards? I am picturing that your switch is fastened entirely to the removable wood floor board. Did you make your own longer ground cables?

duke36 · 01-24-2016, 12:14 PM

Cole Hersey makes the same style switches w/ extended handle threaded sections if one wants to go that way or start anew. Mine clears the floor board and carpet with the switch mounted to the cross member at the cross member position similar to rscard's setup. Better clearance w/ rubber mat. I also split the floor board left of the shifter using flat earthquake wood framing strap (approx. 1 1/2" wide) from the big box stores to bridge the cut line (and a few additional holes) improving battery and switch access.

Mitch//pa · 01-24-2016, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

Mitch do you then loosen the switch if you need to remove the plywood floor boards? I am picturing that your switch is fastened entirely to the removable wood floor board. Did you make your own longer ground cables?

I counter sunk it in the wood cross brace for the seat anchors.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 01-24-2016, 04:49 PM

Folks do all kinds of alterations to wood floorboards. Ted cut his lower board in half, so it was EASIER/QUICKER to change/service his battery.
d.j. (Dudley) said he used to remove the toe board, to let MORE HEAT in.
Bill W.

01-22-2016, 09:32 AM	#1
OL JENNY Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Muscatine, IA Posts: 223	Disconnect Switch Handle Extension I'm planning on moving my disconnect switch from the starter bolt location in the engine compartment to a location where the switch will be in front of the drivers seat. I am doing this on a 1930 Tudor. My question is for those of you who have done this, how have you extended the shaft with the handle through the floorboards or frame. I do not have machine shop skills, but they are obviously available. Thanks

01-22-2016, 09:48 AM	#2
rscardina Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Livingston, Louisiana Posts: 188	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension I cut a hole in my floorboard to allow access and still be able to cover it with the carpet. I used an existing hole in the cross member. __________________ *Ryan Scardina* *Livingston, Louisiana* *1930 LSU Model A*

01-22-2016, 01:43 PM	#3
ccb360 Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Portsmouth, VA Posts: 66	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Mounted this type switch recently to seat frame just behind left foot area. No handle extension needed. Used 1/2" conduit punch for the switch clearance hole and also for passing cables (via insulated bushings) through floor pan. Routed cables over cross member at frame under floorboard. One cable to 6V battery (+) and other cable to frame ground connection with a jumper to transmission cover bolt. Switch can be readily operated while seated and is out of general view.

01-22-2016, 04:06 PM	#4
Hook Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Twin Cities Suburbs Posts: 105	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension I added the extension to get mine to work without drilling more holes in the car. I bought some aluminum round stock from Fleet Farm slightly larger than the shaft on the disconnect. I cut it the length I needed and used a drill press to drill a hole in the top, threaded it for the screw in the handle. I used a grinder to shape the top of the shaft to accommodate the wedge shape in the handle. Crude but functional. Then I drilled two holes in the bottom part of the extension that I threaded for set screws. It worked fine for a month or so, then the set screws got loose. I drilled slight indents in the shaft of the disconnect so the set screws would actually sink into the shaft slightly, then set them with lock tite. Crude but it works great. __________________ 1930 Pickup in Prior Lake, MN

01-23-2016, 09:21 AM	#5
OL JENNY Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Muscatine, IA Posts: 223	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Hook, did you drill out the bottom of your aluminum extension rod to slip over the shaft of the disconnect?

01-23-2016, 10:29 AM	#6
30Ford Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Eastern Canada NB Posts: 166	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I put mine on the bottom of my seat ..driver side..a few rubber bushings ..properly tape or heat shrunk .. no problems..will get pics

01-24-2016, 08:40 AM	#7
Hook Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Twin Cities Suburbs Posts: 105	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Hook, did you drill out the bottom of your aluminum extension rod to slip over the shaft of the disconnect? Yes, I drilled out the bottom of the extension so it would slip over the shaft on the disconnect. Then drilled holes in the side and tapped for set screws to hold it. __________________ 1930 Pickup in Prior Lake, MN

01-24-2016, 09:14 AM	#8
OL JENNY Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Muscatine, IA Posts: 223	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Thanks to all for your answers and advice. I appreciate your help.

01-24-2016, 09:24 AM	#9
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension I put the switch under the seat in my 30 Tudor .. Used a hole saw to bore the wood so the switch body slides up into it then drilled a small hole for the stem to stick through.. No extension needed the way I did it..

01-24-2016, 10:06 AM	#10
OL JENNY Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Muscatine, IA Posts: 223	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Mitch do you then loosen the switch if you need to remove the plywood floor boards? I am picturing that your switch is fastened entirely to the removable wood floor board. Did you make your own longer ground cables?

01-24-2016, 12:14 PM	#11
duke36 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Posts: 1,414	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Cole Hersey makes the same style switches w/ extended handle threaded sections if one wants to go that way or start anew. Mine clears the floor board and carpet with the switch mounted to the cross member at the cross member position similar to rscard's setup. Better clearance w/ rubber mat. I also split the floor board left of the shifter using flat earthquake wood framing strap (approx. 1 1/2" wide) from the big box stores to bridge the cut line (and a few additional holes) improving battery and switch access.

01-24-2016, 04:49 PM	#13
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Disconnect Switch Handle Extension Folks do all kinds of alterations to wood floorboards. Ted cut his lower board in half, so it was EASIER/QUICKER to change/service his battery. d.j. (Dudley) said he used to remove the toe board, to let MORE HEAT in. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"