Reshaping my creased fender

[newshirt]

I started a whole new thread for reshaping my creased fender because the previous thread was a question of using MAPP gas. After reading the responses, I decided not to use heat. I got the feeling that would not work well for me, as a newbie.

Previous thread:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214180

I got a hammer and dolly set from Harbor Freight, and began tapping gently with the 11 oz hammer -- cold. The deep crease came out, and this is the result.

I found that the fender was constructed of four separate pieces, welded up, with 1/2" of body filler to match everything up. That complicated my efforts. My goal is not to redo the entire fender, just to do my best at cleaning up the crease, and chalk this up to my first experience in body work. Don't judge me too harshly.

What steps should I take next?


.

[Synchro909]

Wow, who ever did that was a talented sculptor but not a panel beater!
What you have done is a vast improvement.

[Marvin/TN]

I would get rid of all the old body filler. It will eventually fail anyway if it hasn't already. If you remove the old filler you may be able to do better metal work on the fender and use less filler. Make sure there is no rust under the filler and remember body filler isn't water proof so if it gets wet it the water will go all the down to the metal and rust will form under it and if that happens it will eventually fail. To verify my statement, I started doing collision repair way back in June 1966 and had my own shop until I retired in 1978.

[Big hammer]

Looking better, alot better! Remove the mud and a little more hammer and dolly work, well maybe a lot more? Your first body work is looking good, but more hammer and dooly work can get it smoother! The less filler need the better the end results.

[Kevin in NJ]

You need the fender to bare metal.

Actually, depending on budget and goals you may want to seek a better fender. Seeing what has been done to the fender in the past.

My direction would be to get both fenders to bare metal and mounted. Then do your best to get this fender to look even and have the tail match the position of the other fender. The fenders should look balanced from side to side.

The side of the beads should be verticle, 90 degrees from the ground, and if you sight down the fender line, inline from the front fender bracket bead bolt to the rear fender bead bolt.

Do a google search on shrinking disk. This will be what lets you level out all the minor ding marks. There are lots of videos and sites with information. It is important to know you need a high speed grinder, not a low speed polisher.

Basically the shrinking disk heats the tops of the little bumps. Kind of like rubbing your knuckles on a carpet and burning the tops of them. Ding up low spots and keep working it.

While that fender you might find difficult to get right, you will find with patience you can get metal close enough for a few coats of filling primer and no bondo.

[Mike V. Florida]

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You have started to do a fine job. Keep it up and do the whole thing.

[kenparker]

Great job so far. Keep up the work. Practice makes perfect. ken

[Kevin in NJ]

FWIW,

This is how you make fast work of the fender your have:

Watervliet Air Hammer

I had a fender that probably had a chain come loose and beat it up bad. It was pitted rusty (though no holes). The Watervliet's are quite pricey to buy from someone that knows what they have. You can spend a thousand dollars for a very complete one. But when you know what you are looking for you some times get lucky. My brother has a couple (what are you spoosed to do when its like $20 at a garage sale for a complete one?) so I tried it out. Once you got the hang of it the tool would let you move the metal fast. You still needed to know how to correct the shape as it can move the metal too much too.

Yes it is impracticable for most people. I just thought I would add the little tid bit. Now a few more people will know what the tool looks like and you never know when you find one at the right price.

[rocket1]

Congrats always good to try to save an original part,most anyone can go buy a repro.at what % of repro parts on a car does it no longer exists as as an antique? Food for thought!

[Capt Quahog]

When a magnet would not stick to the steel, the ancient repair work on our 31' Tudor "survivor clunker", it was assumed to be 1950s era Bondo plastic filler. Wrong! Fixes on that car were done using LEAD with carefully shaped backing metal. Have yet to find any plastic in that Model A Ford. Some of it looks to be passenger rear side fender bender crash repair work of body shop men from days gone by.

[RockHillWill]

Ray, you are to be commended for your efforts. It's always nice to see folks that actually dig in and do the work. Good luck in your efforts. That type of work is a dying art, thanks for your efforts.

[ronn]

as Kevin said- better to replace the fender.

then practice on your old fender and resell when done.

[mike657894]

knock out the old filler. I use two fillers first evercoat everglass shortstrand fiberglass filler. I use a large metal file to remove excess after it dries because it takes too much effort to sand. also the file will knock down high spots. then a light coat of evercoat light wieght. and sand that.

[flatford39]

What everyone else said. Remove all bondo to bare metal. You need to look up Wray Schalein (sp) at metalmasters. Buy his video and study it. You are going to need to buy a slap hammer as well. His video is worth seeing.

If I were you I would look for another fender to keep your project on the road and after watching Wray's video go to town on fixing your original fender on your own time.

Oh and by the way you did a good job for the first time as far as I can see. Stay at it.