The Ford Barn

shaun · 03-02-2012, 08:26 PM

Hi I am new here a this is my first T.
She has been sat in a shed for years, till the shed sat on her. I got her yesterday. The car is very unmolested. I intend to focus's on the mechanics, I don't have a lot of money but lots of time and enthusiasm, I want to keep the car as original as possible. Any thoughts on the car would be great, I am in Mena Arkansas anybody close to me. I am looking for a pair of front wheels any body have any. I dont mind how rusty but need to be (Cheap )
model t 001.jpg

model t 002.jpg

model t 003.jpg

[email protected] · 03-02-2012, 10:48 PM

Nice find. People often look for the disc wheels. Don't just scrap them. If you're looking for people in your area you came to the right place. Look for a club in your area too. Is the motor loose. Looking like a '26 or '27. Look for serial number above the water inlet pipe. We'll be able to tell you for sure what year it is. The number should also be on the frame on it on the passengers side. Congratulations!!

Willie in Houston · 03-02-2012, 10:49 PM

Shaun, it looks like a good 1927 touring. Just looking at the pictures, the sheet metal looks good.
There is a swap meet starting on the 15h of this month in Chickasha Ok. It is called a pre-45 swap meet and there will be wheels there. 26/27 had optional 21" wire wheels which require matching hubs. A lot of fair priced T parts show up there. You are not that far away, it might be worth the trip if you have the time.
PS The swap meet officially starts on 15 th, but Wednesday, the 14 th is a very heavy trade day in the parking lot next to the swap meet grounds.

yachtsmanbill · 03-02-2012, 11:22 PM

The engine has a '25 water neck and seperate fan. Look at the trans cover for two bolts into the back of the block... 26-27 only. ws

jackdaron · 03-02-2012, 11:34 PM

Bill,that actually started in the late 25 models.I have even seen the bosses undrilled.

shaun · 03-03-2012, 07:19 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Nice find. People often look for the disc wheels. Don't just scrap them. If you're looking for people in your area you came to the right place. Look for a club in your area too. Is the motor loose. Looking like a '26 or '27. Look for serial number above the water inlet pipe. We'll be able to tell you for sure what year it is. The number should also be on the frame on it on the passengers side. Congratulations!!

Hi yes I will try and save the disc wheel although they were the wrong stud pattern and whoever put them on a long time ago, only had a hammer, and some bolts, The engine is free, I removed the plugs, and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the bores. I will start to try and date the car today from the tips I have been given, it has a vaporizer carburetor were they only fitted for one year?

yachtsmanbill · 03-03-2012, 07:22 AM

I agree Jack, but for the sake of the new owner here...

They started that actually in July or August of '25. My '26 motor was an August baby LOL. If I saw a '25 car with the "improved" block, that would warrant further investigation. If I saw a 26 or 27 car with an early style block I would figure its been replaced. The blocks themselves (early/later) are apples and oranges, but I really prefer the oranges. Those early motors with the small brake drums,pedals, and other "pre improved" parts just seem sooo antique to me! The other issue is the carb you have. It was available in the 26-7 (and some earlier) models but used SOLEY in 1927 with no control rod hole through the valve cover as was used on all the updraft carbs.
This reminds me of when U.S. mfgrs. went to dual master cylinder brakes, lighting, and a myriad of other safety devices in 1967 after FMVSS was instituted. I still wouldnt hesitate to own another 1962 Impala SS 409, but it would still be thought of as an antique... gotta get some coffee in me!

ws

shaun · 03-03-2012, 06:43 PM

Hi Thanks for the pictures that was a great help.
Yes I have the two bolts in the picture, The engine number is 10852955, I can not make out the frame Number, I cant see the rod from the Valve cover to the vaporizer but there is a hole.

I have included some pictures, interesting way to fit the wrong wheels, and the rear wheel has not one stud left in it, but seems to be holding tight, I wonder how many dusty miles she did like this.

Jack Innes · 03-03-2012, 07:12 PM

That engine number was issued in November 1924 ??

The front wheels are likely Chevrolet wheels mounted on wood spoke T hubs. Might the rear wheel be welded, maybe again to a wood spoke hub?

[email protected] · 03-03-2012, 07:14 PM

It's the crown nut on the end of the axle that's holding it in place.

yachtsmanbill · 03-03-2012, 07:29 PM

Your pic show the vapo control rod OVER the head behind the coil box. The N & NH carbs go through the block. The vapo throttle is in the horn at the top of the assembly along with the choke plate. The 10 xxx xxx number would no way be 1927 when the valve cover hole was eliminated, altho they kept the hole between cyls, 2 & 3. Just surmising... Therefore its an early improved motor with the latest carb, altho the vapo carbs were available earlier as well... Confused yet? Look at the throttle arm on the rod from the wheel. Its pinned on the rod. Now look down by the water neck and see if theres another pin hole for a lower throttle arm and maybe even an arm there as well. If so, it probably had a NH originally and this was installed later. No biggy either way... it is what it is!
The disc wheels are mounted on wood wheel hubs from the pics. The wire wheels take different hubs, and maybe ol' farmer joe welded these on to wood hubs as well... strange things happen over 80+ years... ws

This is what was probably on yours when new. The vapo was added later as an accessory. It was standard OEM in 1927 tho...

yachtsmanbill · 03-03-2012, 07:37 PM

1924 is really bizarre! I thought the first 2 back bolt blocks were made in mid 1925. Shaun verified it has the two bolts tho... A later block restamped at one point for a different earlier car then put in the 26?
Shaun.. there should be a number stamped on top of the frame rail on the passeneger side right inside the front door. ITS FAINT so youll really need to clean it well... wire brush and PB Blaster works. Its SUPPOSED to match the engine number but will not in your case. It WILL identify the date of manufacture anyway...
Yours actually looks like a 27 with the headlight cross bar, but has pre 26 spindles on the front axle... 26-7s were lowerd about 1-1/2 inches ws

Willie in Houston · 03-03-2012, 08:55 PM

Shaun, do you have the two bolts holding the top of the transmission cover to the block or just the holes in the cover and no threaded holes in the back of the block to screw bolts in the block??? The cover could be 26/26 and the block 1924. A 1924 block should not have the holds in the back of the block unless the engine number was stamped wrong for some reason.

shaun · 03-03-2012, 09:56 PM

Lots of info, I think I will try and take some better pictures, and post them, I wish I could see the frame number, I have a T frame with the number on so I know where to look but the top of this frame caught the weather, so I cant make out any numbers, I think the front wheels are Chevrolet wheels, I have a 20s Chevrolet front axle with the same wheels ,it would make sense that somebody made what ever wheels they could find fit when the wooden ones went bad, We still have many many miles of dirt roads here in Arkansas, I am sure that when this car was last used most of them were mud and holes, the rear hubs do have studs, its just that every one is sheared off, definitely have the bolts that have been mentioned between the gearbox and block, Thank you all for the interest yachtsmanbill that sure is a nice paint job on your engine.

yachtsmanbill · 03-03-2012, 10:23 PM

I dont wanna bore the other guys that have been watching this build, but since youre new here I give you the Cooks tour...

This was a rolling chassis, built and then abandoned to some weather around 1970 Im guessing. Its all from parts, with a pre 26 frame and front axle, 26 motor and rear, with some really really nice wire wheels that my best friend helped me acquire!

Ive been through every component bolt by bolt so far, lowered the front and rear 5 inches, and I am now trying to concentrate on passenger accomodations.... ws

shag was in but now its out!

As of two days ago...

[email protected] · 03-03-2012, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Its all from parts, with a pre 26 frame and front axle, 26 motor and rear, with some really really nice wire wheels that my best friend helped me acquire!

Pat, Chewbaca and Bullitt the Wonder Dog you bet, but, your "best friend". JK LOL

shaun · 03-04-2012, 06:36 AM

I am not sure that was 70s to get the total effect shag and all, its would only be possible with he help of some of the chemicals that were around in the 60s, But now the cars looks great, what type of body are you going to put on the car?
PS the driver sure had long legs

yachtsmanbill · 03-04-2012, 06:54 AM

Yeah! That was the first attempt at Hermans' Munstermobile! The oobject of this excersise is gonna be an open wheeled speedster. The biggest debate right now is to go with a coel or cowlless, and if the previous, how long? We both want a little protection from the wind and maybe a lower half only opening windshield.
Going to a swap meet in town today, then a stop at Retards for a chunk of plywood for the floor. We'll see how things measure up from there! ws

shaun · 03-04-2012, 07:41 PM

Well I have looked and looked all over very carefully but I cant find even the slightest sign of a frame number unless its under the cross member,?? anyway I have included some more pictures can anybody shed any light on that solder joint ??model t 006.jpg

model t 009.jpg

[ATTACH]76170[/ATTACH

30modelA · 03-04-2012, 09:00 PM

whats up mena im here in little rock.

yachtsmanbill · 03-04-2012, 10:18 PM

OK... so thats a Holley "Hot Plate" Vaporizer carb. Theres a tin plate under the part with 4 bolts. That has hot exhaust on one side and gasoline being heated on the other. That tube with solder is under vacuum and mustve leaked. I believe there used to be some type of packing nut to seal it, but ol' Bubba mustve fixed it with some solder (or lead). That needs to come apart to replace the probably rusted away tin plate.
The throttle arm is on the left of the pic and the choke arm is just below the bulbous air horn towards the bottom. Typically, those carbs would start on a small gas supply, and after good and hot switch over to kerosene... so the story goes. If the exhaust threads are shot, put it on ebay IMHO...
The block and hogs head are definitely an "improved" model engine. Open the cover and verify that the brake band is wider than the low and reverse bands. Again, at this point, it is what it is...
Get yourself a $100 digital camera with a 8meg memory card and take lots of pics... way better than a cheat sheet with notes LOL... ws

[email protected] · 03-04-2012, 10:26 PM

Where's is Mena in relationship to Searcy? I flew in and out of that little burg back in the late '80s and early '90s about 3 to 4 times each month. Once in a while it would be twice a week sometimes I'd stay from Monday thru Friday. I got pretty well aquainted with a bunch of really good people. I went deer hunting in Sunnydale or some place like that for a week. It's the only time I ever deer hunted with beagle dogs and rifles and Buckshot all the same time. And then when I shot my buck I was sitting in the back of a pickup and we were driving across a field with 4 wheelers and trucks. I was sitting on the tool box with the 30-06 when a 6 point jumped and I shot him. He ran into the weeds and they turned the dogs loose to chase him down. Once they had him cornered I killed him. Damn near shot the dog to. In Minnesota if I'd have done any of those things I'd still be in jail. The dogs, the buckshot, the uncased guns on a vehicle and shooting from the vehicle would be enough to cause them to take my hunting right's for many years. God it was fun.

yachtsmanbill · 03-04-2012, 10:42 PM

Hmmm... ws

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ba...ed=0CEYQ8gEwAQ

[email protected] · 03-04-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Hmmm... ws

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ba...ed=0CEYQ8gEwAQ

Hmmm... my butt. So I didn't think of going with it. So what? Sometimes Bill your worse than having a big brother. Just wait, the next time you leave I'm going to call Pat again.

yachtsmanbill · 03-04-2012, 11:20 PM

Hey Mike, it's Pat. You can call me anytime, anything BUT do not EVER call me late for dinner (Mike Garrison 2012)....

I will send some potato salad along with bacon cheeseburger to Washington Island with you....ppat

shaun · 03-05-2012, 07:29 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

OK... so thats a Holley "Hot Plate" Vaporizer carb. Theres a tin plate under the part with 4 bolts. That has hot exhaust on one side and gasoline being heated on the other. That tube with solder is under vacuum and mustve leaked. I believe there used to be some type of packing nut to seal it, but ol' Bubba mustve fixed it with some solder (or lead). That needs to come apart to replace the probably rusted away tin plate.
The throttle arm is on the left of the pic and the choke arm is just below the bulbous air horn towards the bottom. Typically, those carbs would start on a small gas supply, and after good and hot switch over to kerosene... so the story goes. If the exhaust threads are shot, put it on ebay IMHO...
The block and hogs head are definitely an "improved" model engine. Open the cover and verify that the brake band is wider than the low and reverse bands. Again, at this point, it is what it is...
Get yourself a $100 digital camera with a 8meg memory card and take lots of pics... way better than a cheat sheet with notes LOL... ws

Thank you for all the info it will be a great help.

shaun · 03-05-2012, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Where's is Mena in relationship to Searcy? I flew in and out of that little burg back in the late '80s and early '90s about 3 to 4 times each month. Once in a while it would be twice a week sometimes I'd stay from Monday thru Friday. I got pretty well aquainted with a bunch of really good people. I went deer hunting in Sunnydale or some place like that for a week. It's the only time I ever deer hunted with beagle dogs and rifles and Buckshot all the same time. And then when I shot my buck I was sitting in the back of a pickup and we were driving across a field with 4 wheelers and trucks. I was sitting on the tool box with the 30-06 when a 6 point jumped and I shot him. He ran into the weeds and they turned the dogs loose to chase him down. Once they had him cornered I killed him. Damn near shot the dog to. In Minnesota if I'd have done any of those things I'd still be in jail. The dogs, the buckshot, the uncased guns on a vehicle and shooting from the vehicle would be enough to cause them to take my hunting right's for many years. God it was fun.

Yes in Arkansas we have all the rules they have adopted in the rest of the country, the difference is unless you are stupid, no one will bother to enforce them, it truly is the USA here, few rules, lows lows taxes, nice people, and half decent weather. what more can you say.

shaun · 03-05-2012, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30modelA

whats up mena im here in little rock.

Hi I am enjoying the weather, normally stuck in NY so this is great, been building a shed for the T, I had heard people speak of a great city to the NE of Mena, hows things there

BUBBAS IGNITION · 03-05-2012, 09:02 PM

Ok, three days of discussion . Lets get this thing running. Pull the plugs ( might soak in knocker loose for a day or so) poor some oil in the cylinders and hand crank er over a few times.

Looks to me like a 26-27 engine with the coils, carb and hogs head. I would check the oil , hook up a battery as good as i could and trash the carb intake ( ebay etc) put a earlier intake and holley NH on it ( do whats needed to work that out )
Get it sparking and then maybe running enough to warm up ,change the oil and set back and looker over ....
Never know about these cars they will fool ya on how well they will go .....I think we did 4 of these barn cars last year and actually drove each one around the block with very little work.....
One 27 touring is still hauling my friend around , kids and all............
Be glad to help might even have a part or two ( on the cheap)........pm for help.,

shaun · 03-05-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Ok, three days of discussion . Lets get this thing running. Pull the plugs ( might soak in knocker loose for a day or so) poor some oil in the cylinders and hand crank er over a few times.

Looks to me like a 26-27 engine with the coils, carb and hogs head. I would check the oil , hook up a battery as good as i could and trash the carb intake ( ebay etc) put a earlier intake and holley NH on it ( do whats needed to work that out )
Get it sparking and then maybe running enough to warm up ,change the oil and set back and looker over ....
Never know about these cars they will fool ya on how well they will go .....I think we did 4 of these barn cars last year and actually drove each one around the block with very little work.....
One 27 touring is still hauling my friend around , kids and all............
Be glad to help might even have a part or two ( on the cheap)........pm for help.,

Done the plugs Oil hang Crank ect, But no sparks the coils only 1 out of 4 work, I am going to order the resistors to try that first in the next day or so. Strange thing when I unscrewed the main jet (I think its the main jet) it came out real clean and with a light coat of some oil, but smells of winter green mint??? I know nobody has laid a finger on this for years any thoughts?? Thanks for the offer of help, whats a "hogs head" sorry I am from the Uk

Jack Innes · 03-05-2012, 10:00 PM

Oil of Wintergreen is an amazing penetrant & can be used to free a stuck engine. You may be in a position to thank some unknown person for putting it in that engine years ago. It now turns over maybe due to the wintergreen.

yachtsmanbill · 03-05-2012, 11:08 PM

The hogs head is the trans cover with the two bolts in the top... looks like a hogs head... kinda! A few weeks ago I played with my coils and had 7 duds out of seven. Within an hour I had all seven knock me on my keister! Take the points off, and clean everything with a wire tooth brush. File the points FLAT with some 800 sandpaper (wet or dry body work paper) and re-assemble. Theres nothing to lose. Dont tear into capacitor work just yet... you may regret that move! ws

[email protected] · 03-05-2012, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun

Yes in Arkansas we have all the rules they have adopted in the rest of the country, the difference is unless you are stupid, no one will bother to enforce them, it truly is the USA here, few rules, lows lows taxes, nice people, and half decent weather. what more can you say.

I didn't try to imply that anyone in Arkansas was stupid. I had several very close friends in Searcy and they were far from anything a person should think as ignorant country folk. They were machinists, engineers, marketing and Sales people. Notice I didn't mention any managers because that's the level where ignorance starts to spread no matter where your at. And worse than that is CEOs, CFO's and there ilk. But I digress, and understand the people always made me feel I was welcome and I loved going there because their food was better then any I've had anywhere else. The hunting and fishing were phenomenal and the country was beautiful. If I could have talked my wife and kids into moving to Searcy I'd probably still be there. But they like it up here on the tundra trying to get tomatoes to grow in the permafrost. Now that I'm single again I would love to move to Arkansas. But I'm getting old and not willing to try to start a life over again. And the only place the citizens would possible let me in is Toad Suck or Bald Knob.

One of the things I did forget to pass along regarding the previously described hunting trip was that all the things I said about the buckshot, uncased guns and shooting off the back of the truck and chasing the deer down with dogs was completely legal and that's really what surprised me. Because all of these things are illegal in Minnesota.

yachtsmanbill · 03-05-2012, 11:21 PM

Dang... took me 10 minutes to find this... itll walk you through a little bit about whats what.... ws

http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...3kWIh4l5k2TGxc

trulyvintage · 03-06-2012, 08:35 AM

Nice T Shaun ....

Jim

shaun · 03-06-2012, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I didn't try to imply that anyone in Arkansas was stupid. I had several very close friends in Searcy and they were far from anything a person should think as ignorant country folk. They were machinists, engineers, marketing and Sales people. Notice I didn't mention any managers because that's the level where ignorance starts to spread no matter where your at. And worse than that is CEOs, CFO's and there ilk. But I digress, and understand the people always made me feel I was welcome and I loved going there because their food was better then any I've had anywhere else. The hunting and fishing were phenomenal and the country was beautiful. If I could have talked my wife and kids into moving to Searcy I'd probably still be there. But they like it up here on the tundra trying to get tomatoes to grow in the permafrost. Now that I'm single again I would love to move to Arkansas. But I'm getting old and not willing to try to start a life over again. And the only place the citizens would possible let me in is Toad Suck or Bald Knob.

One of the things I did forget to pass along regarding the previously described hunting trip was that all the things I said about the buckshot, uncased guns and shooting off the back of the truck and chasing the deer down with dogs was completely legal and that's really what surprised me. Because all of these things are illegal in Minnesota.

No sorry you misunderstood me, I know you did not imply that country folk were stupid, and I am glad you have a good time here, I meant that we don't have to much regulation here.
I always like the thought of Minnesota, but I hate the cold, I don't know how you guys up there do it. How did the model T fair in Minnesota did many survive, I am told that steel does not rust as fast in a cold climate?

[email protected] · 03-06-2012, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun

No sorry you misunderstood me, I know you did not imply that country folk were stupid, and I am glad you have a good time here, I meant that we don't have to much regulation here.
I always like the thought of Minnesota, but I hate the cold, I don't know how you guys up there do it. How did the model T fair in Minnesota did many survive, I am told that steel does not rust as fast in a cold climate?

We have quite a few Model T's up here in the great white North. They seem to have survived quite well. For the most part they were built and driven before Minnesota dumped salt on the roads to melt the ice. At some point in your life you should take time to travel to our area. Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan are beautiful between the months of June and the middle of October. The rest of the year we have temps that range anywhere from +32 degrees Fahrenheit to -32 degrees Fahrenheit. As a result we normally drive our T's in the fair weather. Although I've heard of one family jumping in their '22 T and going for a drive during the holidays. I'll bet it was a memorable experience.

shaun · 03-06-2012, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack Innes

Oil of Wintergreen is an amazing penetrant & can be used to free a stuck engine. You may be in a position to thank some unknown person for putting it in that engine years ago. It now turns over maybe due to the wintergreen.

That's very interesting I had never heard about it but it seems to work well.

shaun · 03-07-2012, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Dang... took me 10 minutes to find this... itll walk you through a little bit about whats what.... ws

http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...3kWIh4l5k2TGxc

If you don't me asking why yachtsmanbill I only ask because I am into boats.

yachtsmanbill · 03-08-2012, 05:50 AM

No problem... I have 2 boats; it runs in the family! Ones a 1963 aluminum Cris Craft Roamer 36 foot hull #6 and the other guy is a 1974 Hatteras 58 foot triple cabin (for sale cheap!). Ive had the Roamer since 1973... ws

shaun · 03-08-2012, 03:19 PM

buick 2 001.jpg

dahinda.jpgBoth Nice boats, I like the Cris Craft Roamer, 1963 aluminum there cant be to many of them around, she had done well to avoid any electrolysis issues, most aluminum boats I come across seem to be junk after 20 years. What engine does she have.
I have a 1924 54 ft Sail boat built in the Uk, I have been fixing her up for past 5 years she is in NY, and a 21 ft Tod Tuna Built in the UK in 1955, the 5th Production Fiber Glass boat to be built in England. Tod built wooden boats, but came to the USA to learn about Fiber glass boat construction. I had her shipped over when I came to the USA, she has twin ford flat heads 16hp each, rare engines in the USA only used here in Early snowmobiles. but in England they were much used by Ford in cars.

yachtsmanbill · 03-08-2012, 04:26 PM

A few for fun! ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCyYi3UQaEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gXjN60SLwg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tF-b0R-KJk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU9mwaEtsUA

fordman67 · 03-08-2012, 11:37 PM

what a beautiful lathe bill.they dont make them like that anymore!

yachtsmanbill · 03-09-2012, 08:52 AM

The boats are pretty cool too!! ws

shaun · 03-11-2012, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Ok, three days of discussion . Lets get this thing running. Pull the plugs ( might soak in knocker loose for a day or so) poor some oil in the cylinders and hand crank er over a few times.

Looks to me like a 26-27 engine with the coils, carb and hogs head. I would check the oil , hook up a battery as good as i could and trash the carb intake ( ebay etc) put a earlier intake and holley NH on it ( do whats needed to work that out )
Get it sparking and then maybe running enough to warm up ,change the oil and set back and looker over ....
Never know about these cars they will fool ya on how well they will go .....I think we did 4 of these barn cars last year and actually drove each one around the block with very little work.....
One 27 touring is still hauling my friend around , kids and all............
Be glad to help might even have a part or two ( on the cheap)........pm for help.,

Well update on the T, got a few hrs on Saturday to play a little, I found two more coils and with the ones I had, managed to get four to work, spent a long time removing and cleaning the parts in the coil box, taped up the leads and wires from timer, so that I could try and see if she would fire, poured a little gas in each plug hole, and filled the carb, well she fired almost first turn of the crank handle, each time she fired it got better, the she ran for the shortest of time, full of enthusiastic opportunism, I wound the crank handle over one last time, this time she kicked back, I am used to crank starting old tractors, I am not used to the pair of lights behind me I whacked me elbow so hard I thought I was going to be sick, My neighbor is a priest, he may of heard a new words about Jesus heaven and hell ect, as I lept around the garden, with my wife telling me to stop swearing.
When the feeling came back in my arm, (it still hurts) I thought I would wire up the starter, but it has had been run for many years with out the dust cover on, it was full of dirt and stuck solid, so I spent today striping it down and cleaning it up it now spins great. so made next week I will be able to try again.

yachtsmanbill · 03-11-2012, 06:24 PM

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You shouldve had the priest say a benediction BEFORE you tried to start it rather than after LOL !! You did have the spark lever all the way up didnt you??? ws

shaun · 03-11-2012, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

You shouldve had the priest say a benediction BEFORE you tried to start it rather than after LOL !! You did have the spark lever all the way up didnt you??? ws

Up you say?

[email protected] · 03-11-2012, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun

Up you say?

Uh oh. Fully retard the spark (spark lever all the way up) and the fuel lever up to. Give it a little choke for about a turn. Then bring your crank up so your cranking over the top. Don't hook your thumb (you probably know that from cranking tractors). Then if your carb spray needle is set right (about 1 1/2 turns out) and your timer is set right and the moon and stars line up directly between Saturn and Jupiter, it might start. Oh and make sure you got fuel in it. Then if it doesn't start, pull it with your wife's car. Or better yet, your neighbors.

yachtsmanbill · 03-11-2012, 07:33 PM

Yeah... point it at Uranus!! !! MIKE!!!!!!!!!!

That guy leads the flock astray... Im gettin' the flock outa here!!

All the way up is full retard. Way less of a chance of a kick back. BARELY open the throttle; just enough to keep it running. If you start, and advance the spark, be prepared to idle the throttle down (up) also or you can get an ice cold overspeed... not good for dry rods!
If youve ever kick started a motorcycle (4 stroke only !!) you bump it over until you feel compression, then attempt to start it... Ts are the same way. There IS a little technique to it... ws

shaun · 03-11-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Uh oh. Fully retard the spark (spark lever all the way up) and the fuel lever up to. Give it a little choke for about a turn. Then bring your crank up so your cranking over the top. Don't hook your thumb (you probably know that from cranking tractors). Then if your carb spray needle is set right (about 1 1/2 turns out) and your timer is set right and the moon and stars line up directly between Saturn and Jupiter, it might start. Oh and make sure you got fuel in it. Then if it doesn't start, pull it with your wife's car. Or better yet, your neighbors.

OK I was good with, that right up to Jupiter, I cant find it, anyways I know she will go, just has that kind of feeling, Its great to work on a car that was designed to be taken apart and put back together, you can really see what Henry F was thinking, when he and others designed this car, I have been around old cars, boats, tractors, for years but really like the model T. I have been bitten by the T bug.

shaun · 03-11-2012, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Yeah... point it at Uranus!! !! MIKE!!!!!!!!!!

That guy leads the flock astray... Im gettin' the flock outa here!!

All the way up is full retard. Way less of a chance of a kick back. BARELY open the throttle; just enough to keep it running. If you start, and advance the spark, be prepared to idle the throttle down (up) also or you can get an ice cold overspeed... not good for dry rods!
If youve ever kick started a motorcycle (4 stroke only !!) you bump it over until you feel compression, then attempt to start it... Ts are the same way. There IS a little technique to it... ws

Thanks, do you know if latter hubs for wire wheels, will fit that early fount axle (hubs for wood wheels at the moment) that is on my car.

yachtsmanbill · 03-11-2012, 07:52 PM

COOL... so now youve earned your wings on the twister! So you swore up a storm... did you make up any words? Thatll throw the reverend for loop! When I am about to encounter a situation like that I close the doors; I have a voice that carries! ws

shaun · 03-11-2012, 08:21 PM

I think he thought, I was practicing some tribe dance,from old England, anyway the reverend knows the Lord going to forgive us for not showing up on Sundays, we have all these old cars to fix.
Most of my neighbors think I am odd. When I took delivery of my 49 Plymouth the lady over the road, told me she had driven past it for mths on her way to work, where it was on the side of the road for sale, everyday she thought who would want that pile of ****

[email protected] · 03-11-2012, 08:46 PM

You know, now that I think about it Will, I noticed the filth that can come out of your mouth is almost as bad as mine. Not quite but close. I guess you still affiliate yourself with the church. You know, The Church! Bwahahahahahaaaaaa

Shaun, if you've ever started an old Farmall Regular or F-20 you fully retard the spark, pull the throttle out a little bit then you bring the crank slowly around until just about the time the pawl is going to kick the magneto over. Then Bring just the crank around to somewhere close to 9:00 to 10:00 engage the crank into the front of the crankshaft then give it a good hard crank to about 2:00. You'll feel it let go. And if she's tuned right she'll fire up. Then advance the timing until the motor smooths out and slow the throttle down. Let her warm up a little, hook her up to 2 fourteens and get to work. Someone will bring some lunch out at about 1:30 and you'll drink fresh hole milk out of a mason jar and eat cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. If your running the picker and it's late enough in the fall there might be a chunk of ham in your sandwich. And there's always a couple cookies or a little cake. Then you lay back against the tire on the grass, pull your cap over your eyes and catch a little snooze. That is until the Old Man can't hear that damn Farmall running. Then you quickly check the water in the radiator start the tractor again and while it's starting to warm up a little pour some water into the radiator. Then get back to work before the old man gets out there to see whats wrong.

I bet you didn't realize starting a model t would take so much.

Jack Innes · 03-11-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun

Thanks, do you know if latter hubs for wire wheels, will fit that early fount axle (hubs for wood wheels at the moment) that is on my car.

Yes they will fit on the spindles.

shaun · 03-12-2012, 09:18 PM

She started, I fitted the starter motor, and she fired right up, I only ran her for a few seconds, old oil, no water, and everything jury rigged, bare wires, gasoline all over the place, you know the picture. I have not had to touch the carb which is incredible when you think how long she has been sat for, I will definitely get some of the Winter green mint oil, for anything I want to store.

fordman67 · 03-12-2012, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

You know, now that I think about it Will, I noticed the filth that can come out of your mouth is almost as bad as mine. Not quite but close. I guess you still affiliate yourself with the church. You know, The Church! Bwahahahahahaaaaaa

Shaun, if you've ever started an old Farmall Regular or F-20 you fully retard the spark, pull the throttle out a little bit then you bring the crank slowly around until just about the time the pawl is going to kick the magneto over. Then Bring just the crank around to somewhere close to 9:00 to 10:00 engage the crank into the front of the crankshaft then give it a good hard crank to about 2:00. You'll feel it let go. And if she's tuned right she'll fire up. Then advance the timing until the motor smooths out and slow the throttle down. Let her warm up a little, hook her up to 2 fourteens and get to work. Someone will bring some lunch out at about 1:30 and you'll drink fresh hole milk out of a mason jar and eat cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. If your running the picker and it's late enough in the fall there might be a chunk of ham in your sandwich. And there's always a couple cookies or a little cake. Then you lay back against the tire on the grass, pull your cap over your eyes and catch a little snooze. That is until the Old Man can't hear that damn Farmall running. Then you quickly check the water in the radiator start the tractor again and while it's starting to warm up a little pour some water into the radiator. Then get back to work before the old man gets out there to see whats wrong.

I bet you didn't realize starting a model t would take so much.

I love it....just an inside joke with my boss/best friend...."ya never go full retard" yea i know pc it is not...but if you meet him you will understand....FUNNY stuff!

And congrats shawn on getting the ol gal to clack a bit....now to make her hum!

shaun · 03-18-2012, 04:42 PM

Hi I am servicing and cleaning things up so I can run the engine longer, on the front end of the crank shaft there is a cup that the locates the hand crank, it is held in place by the pin that goes,through the crank shaft, behind it is a thick steel washer, I have found some remains of what might be a felt washer?? both in front and behind the washer, is that correct? and if so what purpose did it serve?? was it just to keep dirt away from the shaft seal, what keeps the felt lubed when it spinning against the block.
Thanks

yachtsmanbill · 03-18-2012, 04:58 PM

OH BOY!

That washer was an attempt to regulate the thrust on the crankshaft to maintain MAG coil to magnet clearance. Mikes gonna field this one. Get a distributor...
Model T wire wheels are great but they suck as well... The only hubs thatll really work with T wheels are T hubs. The cone on the wheel fits the nose on the hub in addition to the studs to maintain its position. Model A wheels with adapters kinda work but theres no outer support from the nose area.
The felt seal is captive in the blocks and rides ON the shaft. Lube oil does its business up there too... ws

shaun · 03-18-2012, 05:56 PM

Thanks, Darn it, I knew the car had lost its new car smell, and that could be a sign of trouble, can the end caps be replaced with the engine in, I understand it is the rear main, that takes the brunt of the thrust, If I leave it for the time being and use the generator, can the mag collide like some people say?

yachtsmanbill · 03-18-2012, 06:02 PM

If its not on a collision course with the washer in there, it should be OK for a while...The coils will run OK on the battery but the mag makes it like nite and day. Is the mag dead now... At idle you should get about 6-10 volts AC out of it... more at speed up to 32. ws

shaun · 03-18-2012, 06:30 PM

Not had chance to check mag yet been sorting out the radiator had one on them full flow ones, you know you put the water in the top and it flowed straight out on the bottom, I just checked the end float as best I could at the end of the shaft and it is somewhere around 0,095, I believe 0,040 is max, I will put the washer back for now, I can see now that I have it apart it had thin leather, not felt between it and the block, Its interesting to think how many of these old cars ended up with a external thrust washer, in rural Arkansas 40 years ago. "got no juice no problem, pass me that roll of leather"

yachtsmanbill · 03-18-2012, 07:41 PM

Actually, in a perfect world, the book calls for .004 not .040 ... Doing an overhaul next winter eh??

That washer is actually correcting a worn main which wears with the thrust going aft. It rarely wears going forward, so I would guess the coil clearance will be kind of OK with the worn main giving too much clearance hence low output... You need to put a meter on it... Get a garden hose for a filler upper! ws ws

03-02-2012, 08:26 PM	#1
shaun Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Mena Posts: 30	My new T Hi I am new here a this is my first T. She has been sat in a shed for years, till the shed sat on her. I got her yesterday. The car is very unmolested. I intend to focus's on the mechanics, I don't have a lot of money but lots of time and enthusiasm, I want to keep the car as original as possible. Any thoughts on the car would be great, I am in Mena Arkansas anybody close to me. I am looking for a pair of front wheels any body have any. I dont mind how rusty but need to be (Cheap ) model t 001.jpg model t 002.jpg model t 003.jpg

03-02-2012, 10:48 PM	#2
[email protected] Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 937	Re: My new T Nice find. People often look for the disc wheels. Don't just scrap them. If you're looking for people in your area you came to the right place. Look for a club in your area too. Is the motor loose. Looking like a '26 or '27. Look for serial number above the water inlet pipe. We'll be able to tell you for sure what year it is. The number should also be on the frame on it on the passengers side. Congratulations!! __________________ It's 110 miles to Chicago We've got half a pack of cigarettes It's dark And we're wearing sunglasses Let's go.

03-02-2012, 10:49 PM	#3
Willie in Houston Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 252	Re: My new T Shaun, it looks like a good 1927 touring. Just looking at the pictures, the sheet metal looks good. There is a swap meet starting on the 15h of this month in Chickasha Ok. It is called a pre-45 swap meet and there will be wheels there. 26/27 had optional 21" wire wheels which require matching hubs. A lot of fair priced T parts show up there. You are not that far away, it might be worth the trip if you have the time. PS The swap meet officially starts on 15 th, but Wednesday, the 14 th is a very heavy trade day in the parking lot next to the swap meet grounds.

03-02-2012, 11:22 PM	#4
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T The engine has a '25 water neck and seperate fan. Look at the trans cover for two bolts into the back of the block... 26-27 only. ws

03-02-2012, 11:34 PM	#5
jackdaron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brownsburg,In. Posts: 383	Re: My new T Bill,that actually started in the late 25 models.I have even seen the bosses undrilled.

03-03-2012, 07:22 AM	#7
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T I agree Jack, but for the sake of the new owner here... They started that actually in July or August of '25. My '26 motor was an August baby LOL. If I saw a '25 car with the "improved" block, that would warrant further investigation. If I saw a 26 or 27 car with an early style block I would figure its been replaced. The blocks themselves (early/later) are apples and oranges, but I really prefer the oranges. Those early motors with the small brake drums,pedals, and other "pre improved" parts just seem sooo antique to me! The other issue is the carb you have. It was available in the 26-7 (and some earlier) models but used SOLEY in 1927 with no control rod hole through the valve cover as was used on all the updraft carbs. This reminds me of when U.S. mfgrs. went to dual master cylinder brakes, lighting, and a myriad of other safety devices in 1967 after FMVSS was instituted. I still wouldnt hesitate to own another 1962 Impala SS 409, but it would still be thought of as an antique... gotta get some coffee in me! ws Last edited by yachtsmanbill; 03-03-2012 at 07:30 AM.

03-03-2012, 07:12 PM	#9
Jack Innes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brooklin, Ontario Posts: 704	Re: My new T That engine number was issued in November 1924 ?? The front wheels are likely Chevrolet wheels mounted on wood spoke T hubs. Might the rear wheel be welded, maybe again to a wood spoke hub?

03-03-2012, 07:14 PM	#10
[email protected] Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 937	Re: My new T It's the crown nut on the end of the axle that's holding it in place. __________________ It's 110 miles to Chicago We've got half a pack of cigarettes It's dark And we're wearing sunglasses Let's go.

03-03-2012, 07:29 PM	#11
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Your pic show the vapo control rod OVER the head behind the coil box. The N & NH carbs go through the block. The vapo throttle is in the horn at the top of the assembly along with the choke plate. The 10 xxx xxx number would no way be 1927 when the valve cover hole was eliminated, altho they kept the hole between cyls, 2 & 3. Just surmising... Therefore its an early improved motor with the latest carb, altho the vapo carbs were available earlier as well... Confused yet? Look at the throttle arm on the rod from the wheel. Its pinned on the rod. Now look down by the water neck and see if theres another pin hole for a lower throttle arm and maybe even an arm there as well. If so, it probably had a NH originally and this was installed later. No biggy either way... it is what it is! The disc wheels are mounted on wood wheel hubs from the pics. The wire wheels take different hubs, and maybe ol' farmer joe welded these on to wood hubs as well... strange things happen over 80+ years... ws This is what was probably on yours when new. The vapo was added later as an accessory. It was standard OEM in 1927 tho...

03-03-2012, 07:37 PM	#12
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T 1924 is really bizarre! I thought the first 2 back bolt blocks were made in mid 1925. Shaun verified it has the two bolts tho... A later block restamped at one point for a different earlier car then put in the 26? Shaun.. there should be a number stamped on top of the frame rail on the passeneger side right inside the front door. ITS FAINT so youll really need to clean it well... wire brush and PB Blaster works. Its SUPPOSED to match the engine number but will not in your case. It WILL identify the date of manufacture anyway... Yours actually looks like a 27 with the headlight cross bar, but has pre 26 spindles on the front axle... 26-7s were lowerd about 1-1/2 inches ws

03-03-2012, 08:55 PM	#13
Willie in Houston Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 252	Re: My new T Shaun, do you have the two bolts holding the top of the transmission cover to the block or just the holes in the cover and no threaded holes in the back of the block to screw bolts in the block??? The cover could be 26/26 and the block 1924. A 1924 block should not have the holds in the back of the block unless the engine number was stamped wrong for some reason.

03-03-2012, 09:56 PM	#14
shaun Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Mena Posts: 30	Re: My new T Lots of info, I think I will try and take some better pictures, and post them, I wish I could see the frame number, I have a T frame with the number on so I know where to look but the top of this frame caught the weather, so I cant make out any numbers, I think the front wheels are Chevrolet wheels, I have a 20s Chevrolet front axle with the same wheels ,it would make sense that somebody made what ever wheels they could find fit when the wooden ones went bad, We still have many many miles of dirt roads here in Arkansas, I am sure that when this car was last used most of them were mud and holes, the rear hubs do have studs, its just that every one is sheared off, definitely have the bolts that have been mentioned between the gearbox and block, Thank you all for the interest yachtsmanbill that sure is a nice paint job on your engine.

03-03-2012, 10:23 PM	#15
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T I dont wanna bore the other guys that have been watching this build, but since youre new here I give you the Cooks tour... This was a rolling chassis, built and then abandoned to some weather around 1970 Im guessing. Its all from parts, with a pre 26 frame and front axle, 26 motor and rear, with some really really nice wire wheels that my best friend helped me acquire! Ive been through every component bolt by bolt so far, lowered the front and rear 5 inches, and I am now trying to concentrate on passenger accomodations.... ws shag was in but now its out! As of two days ago...

03-04-2012, 06:36 AM	#17
shaun Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Mena Posts: 30	Re: My new T I am not sure that was 70s to get the total effect shag and all, its would only be possible with he help of some of the chemicals that were around in the 60s, But now the cars looks great, what type of body are you going to put on the car? PS the driver sure had long legs Last edited by shaun; 03-04-2012 at 06:40 AM. Reason: add

03-04-2012, 06:54 AM	#18
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Yeah! That was the first attempt at Hermans' Munstermobile! The oobject of this excersise is gonna be an open wheeled speedster. The biggest debate right now is to go with a coel or cowlless, and if the previous, how long? We both want a little protection from the wind and maybe a lower half only opening windshield. Going to a swap meet in town today, then a stop at Retards for a chunk of plywood for the floor. We'll see how things measure up from there! ws

03-04-2012, 09:00 PM	#20
30modelA Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: sherwood arkansas Posts: 83	Re: My new T whats up mena im here in little rock.

03-04-2012, 10:18 PM	#21
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T OK... so thats a Holley "Hot Plate" Vaporizer carb. Theres a tin plate under the part with 4 bolts. That has hot exhaust on one side and gasoline being heated on the other. That tube with solder is under vacuum and mustve leaked. I believe there used to be some type of packing nut to seal it, but ol' Bubba mustve fixed it with some solder (or lead). That needs to come apart to replace the probably rusted away tin plate. The throttle arm is on the left of the pic and the choke arm is just below the bulbous air horn towards the bottom. Typically, those carbs would start on a small gas supply, and after good and hot switch over to kerosene... so the story goes. If the exhaust threads are shot, put it on ebay IMHO... The block and hogs head are definitely an "improved" model engine. Open the cover and verify that the brake band is wider than the low and reverse bands. Again, at this point, it is what it is... Get yourself a $100 digital camera with a 8meg memory card and take lots of pics... way better than a cheat sheet with notes LOL... ws

03-04-2012, 10:26 PM	#22
[email protected] Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 937	Re: My new T Where's is Mena in relationship to Searcy? I flew in and out of that little burg back in the late '80s and early '90s about 3 to 4 times each month. Once in a while it would be twice a week sometimes I'd stay from Monday thru Friday. I got pretty well aquainted with a bunch of really good people. I went deer hunting in Sunnydale or some place like that for a week. It's the only time I ever deer hunted with beagle dogs and rifles and Buckshot all the same time. And then when I shot my buck I was sitting in the back of a pickup and we were driving across a field with 4 wheelers and trucks. I was sitting on the tool box with the 30-06 when a 6 point jumped and I shot him. He ran into the weeds and they turned the dogs loose to chase him down. Once they had him cornered I killed him. Damn near shot the dog to. In Minnesota if I'd have done any of those things I'd still be in jail. The dogs, the buckshot, the uncased guns on a vehicle and shooting from the vehicle would be enough to cause them to take my hunting right's for many years. God it was fun. __________________ It's 110 miles to Chicago We've got half a pack of cigarettes It's dark And we're wearing sunglasses Let's go.

03-04-2012, 10:42 PM	#23
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Hmmm... ws http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ba...ed=0CEYQ8gEwAQ

03-04-2012, 11:20 PM	#25
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Hey Mike, it's Pat. You can call me anytime, anything BUT do not EVER call me late for dinner (Mike Garrison 2012).... I will send some potato salad along with bacon cheeseburger to Washington Island with you....ppat

03-05-2012, 09:02 PM	#29
BUBBAS IGNITION Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: SPEEDWAY INDIANA Posts: 4,148	Re: My new T Ok, three days of discussion . Lets get this thing running. Pull the plugs ( might soak in knocker loose for a day or so) poor some oil in the cylinders and hand crank er over a few times. Looks to me like a 26-27 engine with the coils, carb and hogs head. I would check the oil , hook up a battery as good as i could and trash the carb intake ( ebay etc) put a earlier intake and holley NH on it ( do whats needed to work that out ) Get it sparking and then maybe running enough to warm up ,change the oil and set back and looker over .... Never know about these cars they will fool ya on how well they will go .....I think we did 4 of these barn cars last year and actually drove each one around the block with very little work..... One 27 touring is still hauling my friend around , kids and all............ Be glad to help might even have a part or two ( on the cheap)........pm for help., __________________ If it Makes Spark, we do it !!!! www.bubbasignition.com [email protected]

03-05-2012, 10:00 PM	#31
Jack Innes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brooklin, Ontario Posts: 704	Re: My new T Oil of Wintergreen is an amazing penetrant & can be used to free a stuck engine. You may be in a position to thank some unknown person for putting it in that engine years ago. It now turns over maybe due to the wintergreen.

03-05-2012, 11:08 PM	#32
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T The hogs head is the trans cover with the two bolts in the top... looks like a hogs head... kinda! A few weeks ago I played with my coils and had 7 duds out of seven. Within an hour I had all seven knock me on my keister! Take the points off, and clean everything with a wire tooth brush. File the points FLAT with some 800 sandpaper (wet or dry body work paper) and re-assemble. Theres nothing to lose. Dont tear into capacitor work just yet... you may regret that move! ws

03-05-2012, 11:21 PM	#34
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Dang... took me 10 minutes to find this... itll walk you through a little bit about whats what.... ws http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...3kWIh4l5k2TGxc

03-06-2012, 08:35 AM	#35
trulyvintage Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Direct Enclosed Transport Since 2006 Posts: 4,160	Nice find Shaun Nice T Shaun .... Jim __________________ Click Here To See Where I Am Today What My Actual Customers Say Click Here Click Here To See Vehicles I Have Hauled

03-08-2012, 05:50 AM	#40
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T No problem... I have 2 boats; it runs in the family! Ones a 1963 aluminum Cris Craft Roamer 36 foot hull #6 and the other guy is a 1974 Hatteras 58 foot triple cabin (for sale cheap!). Ive had the Roamer since 1973... ws

03-08-2012, 04:26 PM	#42
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T A few for fun! ws https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCyYi3UQaEY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gXjN60SLwg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tF-b0R-KJk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU9mwaEtsUA

03-08-2012, 11:37 PM	#43
fordman67 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Evansville IN U.S.A. Posts: 395	Re: My new T what a beautiful lathe bill.they dont make them like that anymore! __________________ 1925 tudor (restoration) 1941 tudor"street rod" project1964 fairlane tube chassis "street car" 1996 f-350 crew cab 4x stroker! Na, I dont like working on cars...I exist for it!

03-09-2012, 08:52 AM	#44
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T The boats are pretty cool too!! ws

03-11-2012, 06:24 PM	#46
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You shouldve had the priest say a benediction BEFORE you tried to start it rather than after LOL !! You did have the spark lever all the way up didnt you??? ws

03-11-2012, 07:33 PM	#49
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T Yeah... point it at Uranus!! !! MIKE!!!!!!!!!! That guy leads the flock astray... Im gettin' the flock outa here!! All the way up is full retard. Way less of a chance of a kick back. BARELY open the throttle; just enough to keep it running. If you start, and advance the spark, be prepared to idle the throttle down (up) also or you can get an ice cold overspeed... not good for dry rods! If youve ever kick started a motorcycle (4 stroke only !!) you bump it over until you feel compression, then attempt to start it... Ts are the same way. There IS a little technique to it... ws

03-11-2012, 07:52 PM	#52
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: My new T COOL... so now youve earned your wings on the twister! So you swore up a storm... did you make up any words? Thatll throw the reverend for loop! When I am about to encounter a situation like that I close the doors; I have a voice that carries! ws

03-11-2012, 08:21 PM	#53
shaun Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Mena Posts: 30	Re: My new T I think he thought, I was practicing some tribe dance,from old England, anyway the reverend knows the Lord going to forgive us for not showing up on Sundays, we have all these old cars to fix. Most of my neighbors think I am odd. When I took delivery of my 49 Plymouth the lady over the road, told me she had driven past it for mths on her way to work, where it was on the side of the road for sale, everyday she thought who would want that pile of ****

03-11-2012, 08:46 PM	#54
[email protected] Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 937	Re: My new T You know, now that I think about it Will, I noticed the filth that can come out of your mouth is almost as bad as mine. Not quite but close. I guess you still affiliate yourself with the church. You know, The Church! Bwahahahahahaaaaaa Shaun, if you've ever started an old Farmall Regular or F-20 you fully retard the spark, pull the throttle out a little bit then you bring the crank slowly around until just about the time the pawl is going to kick the magneto over. Then Bring just the crank around to somewhere close to 9:00 to 10:00 engage the crank into the front of the crankshaft then give it a good hard crank to about 2:00. You'll feel it let go. And if she's tuned right she'll fire up. Then advance the timing until the motor smooths out and slow the throttle down. Let her warm up a little, hook her up to 2 fourteens and get to work. Someone will bring some lunch out at about 1:30 and you'll drink fresh hole milk out of a mason jar and eat cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. If your running the picker and it's late enough in the fall there might be a chunk of ham in your sandwich. And there's always a couple cookies or a little cake. Then you lay back against the tire on the grass, pull your cap over your eyes and catch a little snooze. That is until the Old Man can't hear that damn Farmall running. Then you quickly check the water in the radiator start the tractor again and while it's starting to warm up a little pour some water into the radiator. Then get back to work before the old man gets out there to see whats wrong. I bet you didn't realize starting a model t would take so much. __________________ It's 110 miles to Chicago We've got half a pack of cigarettes It's dark And we're wearing sunglasses Let's go.

03-12-2012, 09:18 PM	#56
shaun Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Mena Posts: 30	Re: My new T She started, I fitted the starter motor, and she fired right up, I only ran her for a few seconds, old oil, no water, and everything jury rigged, bare wires, gasoline all over the place, you know the picture. I have not had to touch the carb which is incredible when you think how long she has been sat for, I will definitely get some of the Winter green mint oil, for anything I want to store.