*Mr.ModelT Re-builds his '26 Roadster ~ Official Build Thread*

[[email protected]]

Heck of a donation. Congratulations. And to think of all the anguish I'm going through to rebuild my magneto.

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Heck of a donation. Congratulations. And to think of all the anguish I'm going through to rebuild my magneto.

It was exceedingly kind of him to volunteer his distributor to my project.

I had originally planned to use a Bosch DU4...I wasn't looking forward to having that rebuilt..

[MrModelT]

*UPDATE*
Rear Panhard Bar....DONE!

Got up to the shop today rather then yesterday (had a few things going at home) and made some great progress!

Started by cutting up the '27 Dodge Tie-Rod, the basis for my Panhard bar..



The old Dodge tie-rod pins had some damage to them from years of hard use on a trailer and neglect sitting buried in the brush and the elements, so I had to replace of the studs...



..Then I started 'fabbing up the lower Panhard mount on the axle..



The upper mount proved a bit a quandary as the first location I had chosen did not pan out, so after so trouble shooting...I came up with an alternate..




..And here is the completed Panhard Bar...









To finish off the old Tie-rod pins, I removed the old zurk-looking oil fittings.....then went digging through my vintage hardware "stash" and came up with these old grease cups to complete the look..







Stay tuned for more!

[[email protected]]

The panhard bar looks good. At first I looked at the frame mount and thought it might be a little bit light. But then I figure if it's going to be used on a speedster it's not going to be subjected to a lot of torque because there's probably not a lot of weight being thrown against it. And after seeing how much it helped my '38's handling out on the highway I know it's definitely a good idea for a T speedster.

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

The panhard bar looks good. At first I looked at the frame mount and thought it might be a little bit light. But then I figure if it's going to be used on a speedster it's not going to be subjected to a lot of torque because there's probably not a lot of weight being thrown against it. And after seeing how much it helped my '38's handling out on the highway I know it's definitely a good idea for a T speedster.

Thanks!

My original mounting position (mounted under the rear spring u-bolts) just didn't work for me either. The amount of steel rod extending out with no support made me nervous of bending under a load or a hard corner. It also required me to put a bend in the bar...that is why I opted to go to the shock mount instead which allowed for a better contact to the frame, lower the pivot point lower to keep the bar straight and allowed me to add a second support for the upper mount off of the RH shock frame mount stud for added support in the center of the upper bar mounting rod.

I can see the difference here in the shop! before I put the Panhard bars on you could grab the car sway the car from right to left by hand....now, it does not move AT ALL.

..I can only imagine what it will handle like on the road!

[MrModelT]

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*UPDATE*
Sorry...it's been a while..

I'm sorry it's been a while since my last update...been a little busy here. Anyway, here is the latest:

After finishing the rear Panhard bar, I moved on the lower steering box mount:





..the setup of the steering bracket did require re-installation of the body to get the right angles.....and to see what the new higher stance would look like after our hard work







This also gave me the time to repair the rear body sub-frame with the correct one..





Then it was time to get the rear Overdrive support cross member done...



...then strip it down...





...to get ready for paint..







Stay tuned for more...regular updates

[[email protected]]

Wow! Nice work! Hey Will, are you looking at this. I want a speedster! OK, For Sale: 1926 beat-up Model T Sedan. No rust, but the fenders are beat up (one has the obligatory split in it), the tires look good for their age. The motor runs like crap but nothing leaks. The interior is springs and rags and old, old, dirty material. I believe everything is original to the car except the washers under the headbolts. The generator is there but doesn't work. One headlight and the taillight works. The radiator should be replaced. It starts with the starter if the ancient 6 volt battery has enough charge in it to turn it over. The back window looks like it was shot with a bb gun many years ago.

Will trade even up for a new built pristine speedster. Everything must be there and working perfectly. And I mean everything that it takes to make it look, run and drive safely and dependably. Must have a full tank of gas and meet with my approval before the trade. Spammers need not reply to ad.

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Wow! Nice work! Hey Will, are you looking at this. I want a speedster! OK, For Sale: 1926 beat-up Model T Sedan. No rust, but the fenders are beat up (one has the obligatory split in it), the tires look good for their age. The motor runs like crap but nothing leaks. The interior is springs and rags and old, old, dirty material. I believe everything is original to the car except the washers under the headbolts. The generator is there but doesn't work. One headlight and the taillight works. The radiator should be replaced. It starts with the starter if the ancient 6 volt battery has enough charge in it to turn it over. The back window looks like it was shot with a bb gun many years ago.

Will trade even up for a new built pristine speedster. Everything must be there and working perfectly. And I mean everything that it takes to make it look, run and drive safely and dependably. Must have a full tank of gas and meet with my approval before the trade. Spammers need not reply to ad.

Thank you kindly! I just hope I get it done in time!

...that "add" made me laugh

[fordman67]

Boy,between Mike and Bill it is certainly never dull round here! Keep up the good work.

That sweet T sure is looking nice too!

[[email protected]]

Originally Posted by fordman67

Boy,between Mike and Bill it is certainly never dull round here! Keep up the good work.

That sweet T sure is looking nice too!

We do have a tendency to get around. No thread is sacred.

[MrModelT]

*UPDATE*
A little catch up....

Been a little while since I made an update, so it is time to play "catch up"

Since the paint job, I got final assembly underway...








..and completed...



Then I moved on to work in the machine shop with friend Troy, a retired U.S. Air Force aircraft machinist, on making a few important parts for the roadster on the the shop's Martin lathe.

A few key parts for the Chicago overdrive and the ball bearing "4th Main" were found to be damaged upon disassembly. I am not experienced on the lathe at all Chris has always wanted to expand his self taught moderate machinist skills, so this was the perfect chance to learn from a master.

We started with simpler of the two pieces to build, the "4th Main" bearing adapter sleeve (at left):



First, we set up the the big 4-jaw chuck on the Martin and worked at getting the 2 1/4" piece of 4140 tool steel stock I acquired for the project perfectly centered with the dial indicator within .005"



Then we moved on to step-drilling and boring the piece out with the large bits:



...then it was cutting time..







...cutting the snap ring groove..



New on the left, old on the right...





Stay tuned for more!

[elwood]

man i love your car, it inspires me to look for a "T"
keep up the good work and more post please..

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by elwood

man i love your car, it inspires me to look for a "T"
keep up the good work and more post please..

Thank you kindly! I try to post regularly as I make new progress every week, but I have fallen behind a bit.

[MrModelT]

*UPDATE*
"Houston, the motor has landed...repeat, the motor has landed"

Well, I guess this update doesn't need a whole lot of explanation...because "I got the motor in the car" is all I need to say to get the awesomeness across

I spent the morning getting the little stuff ready and about 1:00 pm I lugged the short block and the transmission over to the new building to start assembly. First was getting the transmission bolted up to the crank:





Originally (and on my old motor) The trans-to-flywheel bolts were just run in until snug (as per the service manual) and ran a single loop of safety wire through all for bolts with a single twist at the end. While this didn't fail, I added some hefty lock washers this time around and safety wired the 4 bolts together in pairs the correct way.

After that, I gooped up the gasket surfaces and Chris and I lowered the assembled long block in to the pan, sitting in frame:







..Then curiosity got the better of me and I mocked it up with the manifolds...



..and if I have it that far...why not the carbs too....











Stay tuned for more!

[natebeach90]

man that carb se t up is slick. it well be interesting to see what you have up your sleve for the carb linkage though.

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by natebeach90

man that carb se t up is slick. it well be interesting to see what you have up your sleve for the carb linkage though.

Thanks! I do have something up my sleeve, but it should be fairly simple and very functional.

[[email protected]]

Clayton, years ago the big guns on the drag strips were utilizing magnetos on their cars. They claimed the hotter spark improved the power and speed of their machines. Are you planning on somehow utilizing your magneto with the rest of your ignition system?

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Clayton, years ago the big guns on the drag strips were utilizing magnetos on their cars. They claimed the hotter spark improved the power and speed of their machines. Are you planning on somehow utilizing your magneto with the rest of your ignition system?

Mike,

I had no intention of using the Ford mag coil...just the magnets for weight and oiling purposes. My ignition system is a properly designed auto-advance Mallory unit and a good, hot coil...Should give me a hot spark.

I know what you are saying is true, and if I had my way...I would have my Bosch DU-4 or my old Eismann mag setup with the side drive.

...and a Galivon DOHC head, 3 Winfield SRs and a Roots blower too

[[email protected]]

Originally Posted by MrModelT

Mike,

I had no intention of using the Ford mag coil...just the magnets for weight and oiling purposes. My ignition system is a properly designed auto-advance Mallory unit and a good, hot coil...Should give me a hot spark.

I know what you are saying is true, and if I had my way...I would have my Bosch DU-4 or my old Eismann mag setup with the side drive.

...and a Galivon DOHC head, 3 Winfield SRs and a Roots blower too

I've always been a believer that it's good to want. But better to have. I thought I had read you were using the Mallory. I couldn't understand why the magnets were still on the flywheel although it makes sense for the oiling. The ultimate would probably be the magnets and dippers but then again how much weight would a person want to hand on the back of that poor little crank. It seems your attempting to build yourself a quick little monster. What are you running for a crank (I figger I'd find out if I'd read back a ways, but I'm lazy)?

[MrModelT]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I've always been a believer that it's good to want. But better to have. I thought I had read you were using the Mallory. I couldn't understand why the magnets were still on the flywheel although it makes sense for the oiling. The ultimate would probably be the magnets and dippers but then again how much weight would a person want to hand on the back of that poor little crank. It seems your attempting to build yourself a quick little monster. What are you running for a crank (I figger I'd find out if I'd read back a ways, but I'm lazy)?

I am building a quick motor, but it isn't a dirt track racer, its a road car. Without the magnets I can tach her up fairly quick and on flat, level road I can walk away from another T in overdrive at 50...but on hills I get killed. The lack of magnets makes the Ford flywheel a little too light for power and decent grades. With the magnets on, she oils like she should and she has the power to bulldoze up grades in top gear without down shifting.

...Not to mention, it will run a heck of a lot smoother.

As Mr. Murry Fahnestock writes in his book "Model T Speed Secrets: The Fast Ford Handbook",

"If smoother running is desired at low RPMs in high gear, then greater flywheel weight may be an advantage. Whether or not one really wants a heavier or lighter flywheel depends on the manner in which the speedster is to be driven. If the speedster is to be paraded through traffic and driven on rough roads, with only an occasional burst of speed...a heavier flywheel may be desired. For use on a half mile dirt track or where quick acceleration is needed, the Ford flywheel even without the magnets is sufficient. As a general rule, The Ford flywheel has ample weight for all occasions unless the magnets have been removed."

As for the crank, I'm running a balanced '26-7 "EE" series crank.