Model A Distributor with Centrifugal Advance

[Sheldon Paulger]

Is there a 4 cyl distributor with centrifugal advance available at auto wreckers that would fit a Model A (with minimum modifications)?

Thks
Sheldon

[chrs1961815]

Not that I am aware of. Most distributors since the 50s and probably before have a gear on the bottom end of the shaft in the place a shaft retainer would be on the Model A. Also a lot of these distributors are longer than the Model A too - they have the length of both shafts built into the housing.

If you want centrifugal advance, go find a Mallory or B distributor.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

How about this? I do not know how well they work.



https://www.nurex.com/automatic-spar...-advance-12176

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

How about this? I do not know how well they work.



https://www.nurex.com/automatic-spar...-advance-12176

That link didn't work for me. :-(

[johnneilson]

In the current market these days I have found that VW and MG distributors can be modified to work
After the machine work is done the advance curve will need attention

John

[nomadpsd]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Just buy a FSI Zipper. Has centrifugal advance made for the Model A.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

That link didn't work for me. :-(

Maybe try



Do a google search for Nu-Rex


www.nurex.com


on line catalog


Featured products - Automatic Spark Timing system. or


Browse timing

[Jack Shaft]

I had heard early datsuns can be altered but the advance curve is wrong. Model B curve is correct but have design issues. FSI uses hall effect adaptive dwell.Period Mallory distributors for model A, Y 11 series are out there in dual or single point setups.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

How about this? I do not know how well they work.

https://www.nurex.com/automatic-spar...-advance-12176

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/phillipsspark.htm

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/nurexadvance.htm

[john charlton]

Prewar English small Fords had a distributor which is a straight drop in . They are fairly common at swap meets here You have to check the rotation as this small engine went to a chain drive camshaft there is an arrow on the rotor to indicate rotation .They should be about in the Antipodies (have I spelt that right ???)My son has one in his pickup and it works a treat . I cant recall what the advance is I must check .

John in sunny cool morning Suffolk County England .

[Jack Shaft]

The correct spark advance is 1 degree per 100 rpm,peak at 24 to 26 degrees max.Besides drivability mechanical advance eliminates detonation or spark knock, a cause of bearing failure.High compression reduces the tolerance for improper timing.The increase in engine efficiency is noticeable.

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

Period Mallory distributors for model A, Y 11 series are out there in dual or single point setups.

This is a straight away drop in, however, Mallory has been bought out several times and the 4 cylinder distributor parts are extremely hard to find.

John

[jetrod]

I use the nu-rex advance on my 2 A's-- they are a great upgrade and easy to install.

[Jack Shaft]

Originally Posted by aermotor

This is a straight away drop in, however, Mallory has been bought out several times and the 4 cylinder distributor parts are extremely hard to find.

John

B points and condenser hard to find as well,along with a few internals.The B distributor has a design flaw,the breaker plate shaft/drive shaft get no lubrication and is small in diameter..you can get oil to it through modification.The FSI electronic distributor,either zipper A style or the stand alone industrial body style uses a hall effect style pickup and has adaptive dwell,spot on coil soak everytime.The biggest problem with the pertronix/FSI pickups is the need for clear voltage signal,tying it in with an old sketchy harness and grounds leads to failure.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by jetrod

I use the nu-rex advance on my 2 A's-- they are a great upgrade and easy to install.

Me too. And as a side benefit it is fun to watch 'Ace Mechanics' in the group try to explain why I have so much "play" in my distributor drive.

[john in illinois]

A friend got a Nurex advance with his new rebuilt engine and he likes it.
Had it a couple of years.

John

[Synchro909]

The advance built into these distributors is set for a standard engine with a standard head. We know that as compression rises, less advance is needed.
Does anybody have an idea on how much less advance is needed for a 5.5:1 head? Same question for other after market heads that are available all the way up to about 8 or 9 to 1.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

B points and condenser hard to find as well,along with a few internals.The B distributor has a design flaw,the breaker plate shaft/drive shaft get no lubrication and is small in diameter..you can get oil to it through modification.The FSI electronic distributor,either zipper A style or the stand alone industrial body style uses a hall effect style pickup and has adaptive dwell,spot on coil soak everytime.The biggest problem with the pertronix/FSI pickups is the need for clear voltage signal,tying it in with an old sketchy harness and grounds leads to failure.

I solved the condenser problem by using a high quality Model A condenser from Brattons. I elongated the hole in the tab and added a pig tail. It went right in (see photo). I bought several sets of NOS points a few years ago and haven't checked their availability recently. If I was looking for points (or other Model B parts) I would start with Renner's Corner, (734) 428-8424.

Charlie Stephens

[Perry]

Originally Posted by jetrod

I use the nu-rex advance on my 2 A's-- they are a great upgrade and easy to install.

I have a 5.5 head, is this OK or do I need something else?

[old31]

Originally Posted by nomadpsd

Just buy a FSI Zipper. Has centrifugal advance made for the Model A.

FYI. The fsi Zipper does not work with HC heads. I tried it and had to send it back. FSI admitted that it will not work.

I suggested that they say that in there advertising it is not intended for HC heads, but that went to deaf ears.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Perry

I have a 5.5 head, is this OK or do I need something else?

I have a 5.5 head and Nu-Rex advance and it works no problems. I do have my advance lever set so I can retard the timing manually if I hear any knockin'.

I made a stop for the lever to limit advance per the Phillips advance instructions. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/phillipsspark.htm Total advance is set at ~28°.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Sheldon Paulger

Is there a 4 cyl distributor with centrifugal advance available at auto wreckers that would fit a Model A (with minimum modifications)?

Thks
Sheldon

There is information about using a Honda Civic distributor in this thread:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ivic&showall=1

[Jack Shaft]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

The advance built into these distributors is set for a standard engine with a standard head. We know that as compression rises, less advance is needed.
Does anybody have an idea on how much less advance is needed for a 5.5:1 head? Same question for other after market heads that are available all the way up to about 8 or 9 to 1.

I've found advance stays the same,1 degree per 100 rpm with a 7 to 1 head,which is the upper limit for a model a head due to flow reduction. There were some problems noted by some people with the FSI advancing a little too far at peak,a few degrees over the 1 per 100 threshold..I don't find that with mine.What does happen when increasing compression is that the engines tolerance for timing deviation lessens,dont run a high compression head with manual advance. 4.2 to 1 is tolerant of timing flaw,you can set one fixed timing and drive..7 to 1 will hammer on you,with a bigger hammer than 4.2 to 1..

[johnneilson]

On the subject
I have found that spark plug positioning in flatheads will influence the need for less spark advance
Compression and the condition of the balance of the motor allow for more or less advance

Getting into overhead designs the advance curve will be much different

John

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by johnneilson

On the subject
I have found that spark plug positioning in flatheads will influence the need for less spark advance
John

So how do I go about changing the position of my Spark Plug?

[johnneilson]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Ruth

So how do I go about changing the position of my Spark Plug?

Some aftermarket heads have plugs in different positions.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

I've found advance stays the same,1 degree per 100 rpm with a 7 to 1 head,which is the upper limit for a model a head due to flow reduction. There were some problems noted by some people with the FSI advancing a little too far at peak,a few degrees over the 1 per 100 threshold..I don't find that with mine.What does happen when increasing compression is that the engines tolerance for timing deviation lessens,dont run a high compression head with manual advance. 4.2 to 1 is tolerant of timing flaw,you can set one fixed timing and drive..7 to 1 will hammer on you,with a bigger hammer than 4.2 to 1..

That all makes perfect sense. My engine is at about 7.0-7.5:1. It started at 5.5:1 but the head has been off a few times and each time, I make it flat again before refitting. Over the years, the CR has crept up to what I think is the limit. I have been considering doing what you say not to do - go back to manual timing because getting it right with auto advance is too difficult without the equipment to test the dizzy.

[Jack Shaft]

Its not hard to 'farmer' map a mechanical advance distributor.On a stock model a pulley 1/4" is five degrees,pin your engine,rig a pointer and mark a line on your crank pulley..thats tdc...get a cheapie tach dwell meter and hook it to your coil,set it to 'tach' and read the 4 cylinder scale,at idle it should be 500rpm or so with your timing light your mark should be 1/4" to the right of the pointer..run idle up to 1000 rpm on your meter,your mark should be 1/2 " to the right of the pointer..basically for each 1/4 " of separation from pointer to mark as seen with the timing light is 1 degree advance per 100 rpm..give or take,farmer style..

[katy]

Oops, wrong thread.

[Benson]

Also Mallory made the 2301105 for Model A spark curve.

And 2301106 for Model B engine.

I have single point version and a dual point version of 1105.

Both of these have spring sets and user adjustable weights and stops to setup the curve and max advance.

I have a copy of instructions that explains the setup on the house computer.

NOTE I am not at the house to check the part number just now.

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Ruth

I have a 5.5 head and Nu-Rex advance and it works no problems. I do have my advance lever set so I can retard the timing manually if I hear any knockin'.

I made a stop for the lever to limit advance per the Phillips advance instructions. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/phillipsspark.htm Total advance is set at ~28°.

I also have a copy of a Winfield 7.0 head instruction sheet that shows a similar diagram to this.

The modifications to quadrant in the WINFIELD DIAGRAM are the same.

[Benson]

Mallory distributor part numbers corrected in blue test in post #30.

Here is photo:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-2301105#overview

NOTE:

I have not been able to find the instruction sheets. Mallory has deleted them from the website. So the links that I saved are no good.

Lesson learned I will not trust saving links anymore to save information.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Benson

I have not been able to find the instruction sheets. Mallory has deleted them from the website. So the links that I saved are no good.

Lesson learned I will not trust saving links anymore to save information.

Post those old links and maybe I can find them using Internet Archive.