The Ford Barn

Jim M · 07-07-2013, 11:21 AM

I am doing a complete brake job on my 29 Roadster and replacing all four roller tracks. Getting ready to drill out the old rivets and start putting the new plates in. I have the new parts that include the roller track rivet tool to put in a vice to hold the new rivet. What I need help with is the correct procedure and tools needed to pean over the new rivet on the new roller track. Any help, links to a video, etc would be gratefully appreciated. Located in Wakefield, RI. Thanks, Jim

wrndln · 07-07-2013, 01:13 PM

I have installed several roller tracks on front and rear brake backing plates. Like you said, you need the small round cylinder with the hole for the head of the roller track rivet to fit in. I have found that an anvil is excellent as a base to set the backing plate on (and small cylinder) to perform the riveting operation. The rivet should protrude about 3/16" throught the roller track and backing plate to get a good peen. I use an acetylene torch to heat the rivet to cherry red and very quickly take a 3X rivet gun with a 1/4" bit to set the rivet. The bit for the 3X rivet gun should have a round head rivet set tip on it. The rivet cools quickly so time is of the essence. If the rivet doesn't set on the first try, reheat the rivet and use the air tool 3X gun to finish peening it over. I use about 80#'s of air pressure to install most rivets including the backing plate rivets. One person can do the job, but two people are better - to hand the torch to so you can rivet it quickly and hold the backing plate in position. Note: you can use an air hammer, but it doesn't work as will as a real rivet gun. A rivet gun has a longer stroke, which works better. Good luck.
Rusty Nelson

ericr · 07-07-2013, 02:30 PM

a branch service letter states that the factory installed the roller track first and then ground it, so that no replacement tracks could be supplied to dealers despite their requests. I thought that was all bull but Marco has stated that it is indeed true. it still sounds like a backwards way of doing things unless the factory had some precise device to center the track vis a vis the brake shoes.

brum1 · 07-07-2013, 03:37 PM

Jim - I used the tools supplied by the Model A Vendors with success. Key was to get the rivets red hot with Oxy-Acetelyne

Purdy Swoft · 07-07-2013, 04:03 PM

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I did mine similar to the way Rusty did his. I didn't have the rivet gun so I heated mine bright red and peened the rivets with a ball pein hammer. I now just build up the original tracks on the backing plates with gas weld and finish the welds in place. I found that installing new repro tracks is no guarantee that the shoes will be centered. It usually takes some bending, more welding or grinding to get the shoes centered.

07-07-2013, 11:21 AM	#1
Jim M Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Sebastian, FL Posts: 479	Replacing brake roller track revits I am doing a complete brake job on my 29 Roadster and replacing all four roller tracks. Getting ready to drill out the old rivets and start putting the new plates in. I have the new parts that include the roller track rivet tool to put in a vice to hold the new rivet. What I need help with is the correct procedure and tools needed to pean over the new rivet on the new roller track. Any help, links to a video, etc would be gratefully appreciated. Located in Wakefield, RI. Thanks, Jim

07-07-2013, 01:13 PM	#2
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,162	Re: Replacing brake roller track revits I have installed several roller tracks on front and rear brake backing plates. Like you said, you need the small round cylinder with the hole for the head of the roller track rivet to fit in. I have found that an anvil is excellent as a base to set the backing plate on (and small cylinder) to perform the riveting operation. The rivet should protrude about 3/16" throught the roller track and backing plate to get a good peen. I use an acetylene torch to heat the rivet to cherry red and very quickly take a 3X rivet gun with a 1/4" bit to set the rivet. The bit for the 3X rivet gun should have a round head rivet set tip on it. The rivet cools quickly so time is of the essence. If the rivet doesn't set on the first try, reheat the rivet and use the air tool 3X gun to finish peening it over. I use about 80#'s of air pressure to install most rivets including the backing plate rivets. One person can do the job, but two people are better - to hand the torch to so you can rivet it quickly and hold the backing plate in position. Note: you can use an air hammer, but it doesn't work as will as a real rivet gun. A rivet gun has a longer stroke, which works better. Good luck. Rusty Nelson

07-07-2013, 02:30 PM	#3
ericr Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 1,542	Re: Replacing brake roller track revits a branch service letter states that the factory installed the roller track first and then ground it, so that no replacement tracks could be supplied to dealers despite their requests. I thought that was all bull but Marco has stated that it is indeed true. it still sounds like a backwards way of doing things unless the factory had some precise device to center the track vis a vis the brake shoes.

07-07-2013, 03:37 PM	#4
brum1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Raynham, Mass. Posts: 583	Re: Replacing brake roller track revits Jim - I used the tools supplied by the Model A Vendors with success. Key was to get the rivets red hot with Oxy-Acetelyne __________________ "no one knows more than everyone"

07-07-2013, 04:03 PM	#5
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Replacing brake roller track revits Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I did mine similar to the way Rusty did his. I didn't have the rivet gun so I heated mine bright red and peened the rivets with a ball pein hammer. I now just build up the original tracks on the backing plates with gas weld and finish the welds in place. I found that installing new repro tracks is no guarantee that the shoes will be centered. It usually takes some bending, more welding or grinding to get the shoes centered.