10-28-2018, 08:21 AM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 387
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Re: Weard leaks
J.Franklin, maybe you are right. I filled her up with clear water and there are only two small leaks left, front right. So i will follow your advice and retorque the head first.
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10-28-2018, 09:13 AM | #22 |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 2,332
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Re: Weard leaks
If after the retorque and still uncomfortable or still leaking, perhaps contact Bardalls or a distributor of Bardalls and ask their opinions. ask if it should be flushed out, if yes ask about proper flushing. If using white vinegar or something caustic a final flush of distilled water/baking soda to neutralize .
And/or contact a Model A restoration shop or motor rebuilder withsame questions. |
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10-28-2018, 09:39 AM | #23 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 1,553
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Re: Weard leaks
After re-torquing the head, start the engine and go through at least warming it up and see if the radiator is plugged. I would be more concerned with that than degradation of the copper head-gasket. The Bardahl may now be a lump in the system somewhere. What was the thinking in putting the engine together and then not finishing by running and torquing a few time? That is a procedure I have not been informed of yet. May have merit, but I fail to see any logic there. Perhaps we can all learn.
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10-28-2018, 10:32 AM | #24 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 2,332
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Re: Weard leaks
Quote:
#9 hazelhoff Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 205 Re: Weard leaks 1crosscut, You are right. not intended for permanent usage. Too bad there were no instructions on how to apply. Dutch description make it look like you can leave this stuff in. This stuff seems to be very agressive. I drained the sysstem and will have to put a new headgasket in. ---------------------------------- He seems to think the Bardalls is active/aggresive, and is concerned about it slowly causing damage that will show up in the future. One of the reasons I suggested calling a distributor or Bardalls. |
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10-28-2018, 11:22 AM | #25 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 970
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Re: Weard leaks
As others have said; Heat is an essential part of the head gasket job. Heat and cooling cycles. Not just warm, Hot, then re -torque after cooling. After this process, then you can judge the job technique and materials.
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11-01-2018, 11:46 AM | #26 |
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Location: Sunrise Beach, Mo
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Re: Weard leaks
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11-01-2018, 12:57 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 387
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Re: Weard leaks
Once more an update, the gasket is leaking all over the place again when filling up. Today I removed the head. Water all over the place ! Even one cylinder was attacked !
The Dutch product description basically says you should leave the Bardahl in. The American product instructions say you have to drain it after running for 15 minutes. Believe me, Bardahl eats your head gasket ! Spefically the asbestos. It is dangerous to your system ! |
12-15-2019, 09:52 AM | #28 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 387
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Re: Weard leaks
So, you guys think it is OK for the head gasket to leak some drops of water after installation ? Will it end after a few runs/retorques ?
Do you want to apply some locktite sealant extra to the standard copper gasket around the water holes ? |
12-15-2019, 11:54 AM | #29 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
Posts: 3,505
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Re: Weard leaks
I have found that when using a copper gasket, if you use a liberal application of Permatex Copper Spray, you will not have any weeping of coolant, either from studs or from the edge of the gasket. This does not mean you can skip the required re-torque sequence. The mess you get glueing the gasket to head and block surfaces when using composite gaskets is a non-issue with copper gaskets.
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12-15-2019, 12:12 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,907
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Re: Weard leaks
I don't think that it should leak after installation of new head gasket.
Everyone seems to have a different way of going about installing a new head gasket. If you are putting in new studs check each one to see if it goes into the water jacket. I put a bit of Indian Head shellac on the threads going into the block on each stud. I use two light coats of copper coat spray on the copper head gaskets allowing the solvents to flash off between coats. Install the head while the gasket is still a bit tacky.
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12-15-2019, 03:48 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 1,189
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Re: Weard leaks
Have you milled the cylinder head? Most used heads I have found are not flat and need to be milled. This could cause your leaks.
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12-16-2019, 06:43 AM | #32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 387
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Re: Weard leaks
Yes, the block and the head were milled !
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12-16-2019, 08:08 AM | #33 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 1,092
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Re: Weard leaks
If it is only seeping through the filler material in the gasket you can put in some stop leak like others have said. If the gasket isn't hemmed on either end there's always a chance coolant will seep through.
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12-16-2019, 04:19 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 970
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Re: Weard leaks
Mine Gott. Why did you put in this additive in the first place - Leaking? now leaking still so it is the additive. I am sure no stop leak that has been around for 50 - 70 years eats head gaskets. When you pulled the head, why did you not drain the coolant first. Did you study the old gasket for signs of damage or failure. What were the results? The old gasket might indicate problems in the surfaces that still exist. Non hardening sealers are OK around the studs threads and the gasket holes but not locktite.
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