Slamming into first gear

[Jacksonlll]

It’s either your clutch not disengaging because of adjustment, or failed clutch lever, or your pilot brg needs changing.
Both are common problems. To change the pilot brg, you have to pull the engine or rear end.
Rule out the linkage and adjustment first. Easy fix. Good luCo.

[rivcokid]

Ok - I inspected the clutch and lever and they looked fine. The clutch engages about 1 inch or so off of the floor, and disengages about 3-4 inches from my foot. I am actually having the issue going into 2nd and 3rd also, but not as often.

[Jim Brierley]

A little grinding is normal because the trans has no syncronizers. Remove some of the free-play and before trying to go into 1st, push the clutch all the way down and wait several seconds to let the gears slow or stop. I usually put it into 1st before coming to a complete stop to avoid the problem you are having. Practise makes perfect.

[rivcokid]

Jim - I guess I'm not getting it. This is more than a little grinding that just started. I've tried waiting for .5 - 20 seconds at various times, and have had no real luck with making it better. The clutch is floored whenever I stop and try to put it into 1st. Whenever I have tried to put it into gear with the car still moving, no matter how slow it is going, it's always complained. I see the efficacy of the clutch potentially needing adjustment. Also, the idle speed is at almost dead. I don't have a way of measuring the actual rpms, but I believe if I tried to slow it any more the engine would die. That said, it is acting like trying to shift when the idle is too high and I am more cognizant of maintaining a low idle speed. Thanks. I'll figure out how to do the clutch adjustment and see if that helps!

[Jacksonlll]

Set the linkage so the clutch is engaged at the 2 inch point. If that does not work, it’s the pilot brg.
You will need a small jack to adjust the linkage, but be sure you are not being fooled by a cracked lever. If it happened all at once, it is probably the lever. A binding pilot brg would show itself over time.

[Jacksonlll]

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Start it in first gear, then slide it into neutral, then back into first. It will probably clash, meaning that your input shaft is being driven when the clutch is pushed to the floor.

[rivcokid]

Thanks Jacksoniii! I'm going to play with it tomorrow before it hits 106 degrees!

[sphanna]

Until you get this resolved as to the real problem, do as Jim Brierley suggests.

[bobbader]

I'll throw this out there. An incident I experienced several years ago with a modern car with a Ford Heavy Duty 3 spd Trans. I had what sounds like the same issue you've experienced with your Model A. Leaving a stop light the car became increasingly hard to shift into first gear to get the car moving from a complete stop. Adjustment was checked, etc, etc. Once rolling, getting into 2nd & 3rd not so much of a problem. After a few weeks of this, one day I stopped for a red light in rush hour traffic. the light turned green and, no way this tranny was going into first, no amount of my trying .......... or horns going off behind me .......... would convince the shifter to go into first. Finally jammed it into 2nd and was able to take off. Luckily I was 1/2 mile from my shop. Dropped the transmission down to find that the front collar around the input shaft (the outer tube where the throwout bearing rides) had cracked around the entire outer perimeter where the tube met the mounting flange, thus causing misalignment of the trout bearing and not enough leverage to compress all the fingers on the pressure plate to disengage. I'm not saying this is your problem but ............ if you end up disassembling things, you might look into this.

Good luck, Bob Bader

[Jim Brierley]

I doubt it is a pilot brg problem, likely the clutch pressure plate and disc need replacement, if all linkage checks out. Also look at the motor mounts, if float-o-moters are installed, all bolts must be tight enough to hold everything in place.

[rivcokid]

*UPDATE* - Well, I tried doing the clutch adjustment this morning before it got hot. I ended up adjusting it to about where it was instead of improving it after fighting with the cotter pin for 50 minutes. It's difficult for me since I have no one to help me, so seeing things and how they work isn't the easiest. Anyway, I'm pretty sure I know where I messed up, so back at it tomorrow morning before it hits 107! Stay tuned!

[rivcokid]

**UPDATE** - Got the clutch adjusted this morning with only about 1 - 1.5 inches of play and it works great! Took it for a drive and not once did it slam into 1st. It did once or twice into 2nd or 3rd, but I think that's going to require an adjustment to the nut behind the steering wheel as opposed to something on the car itself! Thanks everyone for your help!!

[ryanheacox]

Great!

[Mulletwagon]

Outstanding ! Thanks for the update.

[Big hammer]

Go for a long drive! 1-2 shift at 5 to 8 mph, 2-3 shift at 12 to 15 mph and no need to double clutch ! It in Fords owners manual

[Patrick L.]

Good, right back to post #9 about 10 ago.

[rivcokid]

***FURTHER UPDATE*** Well, my fix lasted about 1 day. Next day, 5 inches of free-play was back and after driving it a bit, shifting became harder and harder. Drove the last mile home in 1st gear. Turns out it was the other thing mentioned a while back - the clutch shaft arm is broken - not completely, but certainly enough to cause trouble. This is the part that so many people here and on the vendors' sites say is prone to breaking. New parts on order and will try it again this weekend!

[ricconhan]

Originally Posted by rivcokid

***FURTHER UPDATE*** Well, my fix lasted about 1 day. Next day, 5 inches of free-play was back and after driving it a bit, shifting became harder and harder. Drove the last mile home in 1st gear. Turns out it was the other thing mentioned a while back - the clutch shaft arm is broken - not completely, but certainly enough to cause trouble. This is the part that so many people here and on the vendors' sites say is prone to breaking. New parts on order and will try it again this weekend!

Look similar to this?

The pin is tapered, larger on one end than the other, I would suggest a brass hammer or brass drift.

[rivcokid]

Mine's not cracked all the way through but pretty close. I've heard that pin is fun to get out - I can hardly wait!

[Patrick L.]

Just push the pedal, stick in a piece of 2x4 to hold it down, crawl under and take a look.

Good that you figured it out though.

Shouldn't be too hard to replace and hopefully all be well.