31 Steel Top CCPU

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by sidhartha

Is there a source to purchase the metal bows? A friend is putting a steel roof on his and they are the parts he is missing.

Has he tried fitting the steel top to his cab back yet as the cab backs
are different between the two tops.

Bob

[SSsssteamer]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Has he tried fitting the steel top to his cab back yet as the cab backs
are different between the two tops.

Bob

In 1973, I fitted a late '31 steel top to my 1930 AA cloth top cab. It fit fine and it is still in place today. See our 1973 photo.

[Bob C]

Did you have to cut the leading edge off the cab back to get the steel top to fit.

Bob

[SSsssteamer]

Originally Posted by rustybolt

Where did you buy your wood for the door headers? I replaced the rear cab header with a late 31 steel top piece. All the wood I got in the top kit I originally bought was for a 30/31 cab.

I bought the late '31 steel top cab wood kit from Mikes A Fordable parts. For what Mike's charged, the wood kit was a bargain. No guess work, as all the parts fit together very well. Missing the steel bows? The wood door headers are notched for the steel bows to slip straight up into their nesting place, so the steel bows could easily be installed at a later date. The bows' tension against the top can be adjusted by how far they are pushed up against the top, and then screwed into that permanent location.

[SSsssteamer]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Did you have to cut the leading edge off the cab back to get the steel top to fit.

Bob

I made my steel top conversion 43+ years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy on that detail that I did back then. From what I did this winter though, yes, you will have to cut off the leading lip shown in your photo. Install your new rear header and you will see that in order for both the back wall and the new steel top to properly butt up to each other in the same channel, that excess lip will have to leave.

[rustybolt]

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Originally Posted by SSsssteamer

I made my steel top conversion 43+ years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy on that detail that I did back then. From what I did this winter though, yes, you will have to cut off the leading lip shown in your photo. Install your new rear header and you will see that in order for both the back wall and the new steel top to properly butt up to each other in the same channel, that excess lip will have to leave.

I have a late 31 cab back. The picture above is from a 30 cab back. It took a while to find a steel top and bows for my truck. Now I'm putting the puzzle back together and it's coming along well. Just a few issues on fit and placement. Does the top sit on the front door pilar or is there a gap there. Should the header be flush with panel above the windshield below the visor. I think I need to remove about an 1/8 to a 1/4 in to let the top come down in the front to sit on top of the door pillars and the screw holes to line up on the front of the visor.

[rustybolt]

Btt

[WTSHNN]

Originally Posted by rustybolt

Does the top sit on the front door pilar or is there a gap there. Should the header be flush with panel above the windshield below the visor. I think I need to remove about an 1/8 to a 1/4 in to let the top come down in the front to sit on top of the door pillars and the screw holes to line up on the front of the visor.

Not following what you're asking...can you post a picture?

-Tim

[rustybolt]

Btt

[WTSHNN]

Rusty, can you provide an image of the area you're looking for dimensions and fitting on?

-Tim

[Bob C]

Will these help?

[rustybolt]

Looks good I really appreciate it. Hopefully will get the top back on this week.