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08-06-2017, 08:16 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denville NJ
Posts: 964
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Engine Overheating
Going to and coming home from Gettysburg I had a problem with the engine overheating. We traveled 160 miles and a lot of it was at 45-50 MPH. I noticed that if I opened the GAV adjustment 3/4 to 1 full turn that the temp would come back down to normal, but when I came to a stop the engine would start to stall due to the rich mixture. Dose this mean that my main jet orifis is restricted or too small? Or is this just something I need to do when driving in hot weather. Thanks
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08-06-2017, 09:30 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
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Re: Engine Overheating
Ed I have learned that it is rarely a one item solution on overheating. You have already found the first of what will probably be a multi item solution. I like to use the certified jets from Renners corner to insure that the jets are flow tested. At those sustained speeds any weakness in the radiator and higher temps will show themselves.
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08-06-2017, 10:32 AM | #3 |
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Re: Engine Overheating
Running rich always runs cooler. Not a solution for a plugged radiator. Your radiator should flow about 36 GPM. Most of our cores are plugged to some extent. Nothing wrong with your carburetor.
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08-06-2017, 12:06 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 794
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Re: Engine Overheating
Retarded timing will make one run hot too. Was it puking water? The whole time? Just a little? What makes you say it was running hot?
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08-07-2017, 04:48 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denville NJ
Posts: 964
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Re: Engine Overheating
The temp would be fine for a long while, then start to climb. If I noticed it soon enough and opened the valve, it would cool down. If I did not it would overheat and slowly push the water out. The other two cars running with me had no problem. I will try another carb and take it out for a run and see if the results are different. Thanks.
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08-07-2017, 08:03 AM | #6 |
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Location: Eastern Connecticut
Posts: 50
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Re: Engine Overheating
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08-07-2017, 10:01 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Kansas City Area Missouri
Posts: 384
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Re: Engine Overheating
Ed,
I agree that there is a different problem than just the carb, BUT when flying we lean out the carb as altitude increases but with a proper Exhaust Gas Temp gage if it is too lean then the engine heats up a lot and can damage internal parts. So by enriching the gas mix does make the car run cooler and can be a good temporary fix while traveling. Also anti freeze is an enemy of a non pressurized cooling system and you may have some snot in the tubes due to the anti freeze but it could be a volume issue as was stated by John/CT. Gary Bergbower in Southern Illinois makes a high volume radiator with flat tubes that cools better than any radiator we have tried or are aware of using. I think that the flow rate of a good clean original radiator should be around 50-52 gal/minute. Post your results as always is interesting to find out the solutions to overheating problems. In St Louis in 88 with temps over 100 degrees everyday we beat some of the impellers ears off so the water pumps didn't pump so much water but the bottom line was anti freeze snot in the tubes. Good luck and look forward to having you join us in Branson Missouri next June. Dan B |
08-07-2017, 11:03 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Re: Engine Overheating
Hi Ed,
For the past 20+ years of Model A Forum questions about Model A engine overheating, everyone appears to be always looking for some inexpensive solution to solve Model A engine overheating problems ...... timing, carburetor jets, brake shoes dragging, low tire pressure, etc., etc., while trying to dodge the cost of professional cleansing of an old clogged radiator, radiator re-coring, or dodge the cost of buying a new Model A radiator. In most cases, 80+ year old radiators, (and younger radiators), have tubes that are clogged with minerals which cling to the radiator tubes, thus not only reducing rapid water flow, but also not allowing the transfer of heat. Water from wells or streams in constant contact with the earth are loaded with dissolved minerals which are not filtered even with modern day potable water filtration; hence this type of flowing warm water after many years leaves earth's mineral deposits in Model A radiator tubes. Constantly using either distilled water and/or rain water can prevent radiator mineral deposits. To top it all off, recommended 50% antifreeze can prevent old Model A engine rusting where rust particles can easily clog a Model A radiator. If you would like to try antifreeze in a "clean" radiator one day, we have successfully been using 50% Prestone for over 65 years in vintage tractors and vehicles ........... which in addition, we have noticed Prestone is 100% Snot Free. Hope this helps someone in the future with 80+ year old Model A engine overheating. |
08-07-2017, 12:43 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Re: Engine Overheating
I agree with H.L. that deposits of minerals in water is the problem, along with rust from people who use plain water.
I always use 50% antifreeze in my A/C WD tractor, my Studebakers, and my Model A's and never get deposits. |
08-07-2017, 03:40 PM | #10 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,093
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Re: Engine Overheating
Quote:
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08-07-2017, 07:55 PM | #11 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camino, CA.
Posts: 3,086
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Re: Engine Overheating
Quote:
with Simple Green and then using Evaporust to dissolve the rust in the block. |
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