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Old 08-14-2019, 12:28 PM   #1
elmangle
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Default Elusive Block Crack?

Little help, folks! My '52 8rt engine runs 10-15 degrees warmer on the driver's side, and about 200 degrees cruising on a moderately warm day. There is also enough moisture in the exhaust to fog a mirror, even after running the engine extensively. I removed the water pump belt and upper hoses and thermostat housings and ran the engine to check for bubbles in the coolant, which began to appear around 170 degrees and became quite frequent at 190 and above. A previous check of the radiator with a "sniffer" did not detect exhaust gasses. Revving the engine produced no surging. I did a dye penetrant test on both the head and block and saw no cracks. I sent the head off for pressure testing and it was fine, although very slightly less than completely flat, so was lightly milled. So my questions for you smarter folks are these: What next? Now where do I look?
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:39 PM   #2
19Fordy
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Is the radiator losing any water? Your temperatures seem ok.
Did you retorque the head bolts?
Have you thought about adding some block sealer?
It might be a teeny, weeny head gasket leak.

Last edited by 19Fordy; 08-14-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:25 PM   #3
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Blocks can and should be be pressure tested at overhaul. Magnaflux usually finds a crack that the naked eye can already see. Dye pen inspection is better than magnaflux in my book but it still won't find cracks in the siamese exhaust ports. If your head bolts can be retorqued, try that as was mentioned. Bar's leaks is definitely worth a try on an engine that is a light leaker. Oil pans full of milkshake is not a light leaker. Sodium silicate or water glass will fill the small stuff. Make sure your radiator doesn't need a rodding out.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

I've tried sealers twice and the head was torqued to factory specs (more than the commonly recommended 50#. Not losing coolant. Plugs and combustion chambers show no signs of extraordinary cleanliness resulting from water intrusion. Is a pressure test the only way to find a crack in the siamese exhaust ports? Can it be done with the engine still installed?
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:39 PM   #5
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

I might try Morso ceramic sealant, using a 7 lb pressure cap. Before you tear it down. However, you can't leave the sealent in the radiaror very long as it may begin to clog things up. I'd run it hot for a few days then drain and flush the system, This has been used successfully on big truck engines
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:24 PM   #6
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

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If there is no coolant loss, it must be something like some partially blocked tubes in the radiator or some other blockage. If there is a crack then you will be losing coolant.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:32 PM   #7
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

"There is also enough moisture in the exhaust to fog a mirror, even after running the engine extensively."

We often forget the products of combustion are CO2 and water.
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Old 08-14-2019, 06:26 PM   #8
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Engines build condense in the crankcase. Fuel tanks & even exhaust systems can form condense with broad temp changes and a lot of humidity in the air. It's all evaporated when the engine is cranked up again with the exception to the fuel tank. It has to have dry alcohol in there to draw in the water so it can be burned up by the engine.

200 degrees F seems high but flatheads will do that in traffic. Both cylinder banks rarely run the same temperature either.
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Old 08-14-2019, 07:05 PM   #9
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Thanks, everyone. All good advice, but I have to think the bubbles in the coolant indicate a crack somewhere. The radiator seems to be fine, in fact I believe it was recored just before I bought the truck, about 500 miles ago. Temperature readings on the surface show no cold spots and the variance between top and bottom is good. I can't guarantee there's absolutely zero coolant loss, but it's certainly negligible. I guess my plan now is to see if there's any sand or scale in the water jacket, clean it out best I know if so, and put it back together and run it. As long as I'm not climbing mountains, it won't boil over.
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:32 PM   #10
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Is it possible to borrow a black light fluorescent fluid kit to check the exhaust moisture for coolant, If you are anywhere near Oklahoma I have a blacklight tracer setup, I add the fluorescent dye to the cooling system and run the engine or use pressure pump and test the whole system . some auto supply stores that sell the fluid may have a loaner , if you have an O'Reilly's auto supply near you might check with them , I have used one from them , I liked it so I just bought the test kit from them, they have fluids for engine oil and air conditioning systems as well.

Last edited by Fordestes; 08-14-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:19 PM   #11
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Now that's something I never heard of! I have an O'Reillys about 65 miles away and I'll check with them.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:21 PM   #12
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

By the way, neither my '68 Electra or '40 Century will fog the mirror once warmed up.
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:40 AM   #13
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

The symptoms you describe aren't alarming to me, but I understand wanting to get things right/perfect. Unless you're boiling over, losing coolant, or leaving behind clouds of vapor I'd say things are generally alright.

Do you have a heater core connected to the right bank of the engine? If you do, I think it's fairly normal for temps on the right to be a bit cooler than the driver's side. As far as moisture in the exhaust pipes, you'd be surprised how much condensate accumulates in your pipes and mufflers (dependent on weather). Sometimes I have to take a highway run to heat the pipes enough to steam off the water.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:24 AM   #14
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

You may be able to check on line availability , I have seen the small light kits selling for 12-15 dollars, I have never used the smaller lights but I have been told they work ok , the cooling system fluid is about $5 on line, I just checked yesterday. the e bay number is33168630804, 283565455504. It was S.O.P for all my diesel and gas engines to be ran on the dyno , cooling and lubricating systems checked before being put back in service (cheap insurance).
good luck, fordestes
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Old 08-15-2019, 01:51 PM   #15
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Another thing to check is you load-o-matic distributor function if it's still stock. If the diaphragm is bad then the spark control system will be inoperative. This can make things heat up too. The spark control is completely vacuum operated on the 8BA family of engines.
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:49 AM   #16
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

http://irontite.com/zc/index.php?mai...roducts_id=819

I was told this was a good product. Forestry guys use in the winter in the woods when they can not afford to tear equipment and lose money.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #17
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorwrench View Post
Another thing to check is you load-o-matic distributor function if it's still stock. If the diaphragm is bad then the spark control system will be inoperative. This can make things heat up too. The spark control is completely vacuum operated on the 8BA family of engines.
Thanks...I haven't checked it, but the other bank runs very cool.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:37 AM   #18
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 36coupe View Post
http://irontite.com/zc/index.php?mai...roducts_id=819

I was told this was a good product. Forestry guys use in the winter in the woods when they can not afford to tear equipment and lose money.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try one more. Blue Devil and Bar's Leak didn't help
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:41 AM   #19
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Default Re: Elusive Block Crack?

Thanks, everyone, for the advice. At this point I think I'll just see if I can check the passages for scale and sand and remove as much as I can of any I find, then reinstall the head and go for a drive.....carefully, since it's in the 90's here these days.
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