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02-15-2018, 08:36 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Middletown, NY
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Model "A" engine paint
I am new to the hobby and want to paint the engine. Some questions:1) best paint stripper; 2) Best metal cleaner; 3) is an engine primer needed; (4 best paint in Ford Green. Any response both pro and con would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Gary D.
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02-15-2018, 08:41 PM | #2 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
3: no primer 4: any of the paints offered by Model A parts suppliers are good.
For 1 and 2 it depends on whether the engine is out of the car and/or disassembled or not.
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02-15-2018, 09:06 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
Hi Gary, Welcome to the hobby.
Like 700 posted no primer is necessary. I use denatured alcohol to clean my parts and pieces prior to painting. If you get the existing paint good and clean I don't see a need to strip it down to bare metal. I'm partial to the green paint that Bert's sells. I like the color and never have had a problem with it lifting, peeling etc... If you do end up using the paint from Bert's apply the first coat very lightly as it almost goes on clear. Allow it to get tacky (only takes two or three minutes) before applying the next coat. It dries so quickly that several coats can be put on in a 15-20 minute or so time frame and your done. Dry to touch in about an hour.
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02-16-2018, 10:04 AM | #4 |
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
Snyders has the closest Ford Engine Green paint in rattle cans or half pints.
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02-17-2018, 10:50 AM | #5 |
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
All we have ever used is Snyders. You want to clean the engine, wire wheel off any rust and loose paint. Simple rule is if it's cast iron it's green, the pan, pulley, carb, starter, fan and generator are black. Some people paint the exhaust manifold, we just leave then natural. If the engine is coated with crud, I have used oven cleaner in the past. But it a very messy job, best done outside and needs to be washed off. The engine paint seems to be more forgiving of a little oil left on the parts. You only what to paint to cover, keeping the thickness of a paint to a minimum.
If you use oven cleaner read and follow the instructions on the can and keep off the body parts as much as possible, don't know if will hurt but better to be safe then sorry.
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I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! Last edited by redmodelt; 02-17-2018 at 10:56 AM. |
02-17-2018, 01:53 PM | #6 | |
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Location: South California
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
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Quote:
Are you restoring to original paint color ? You do know that RED gives at least added 10 hp !! You are sure to start up conversations with wrong 'shade' green. Red will always give those around you something to 'talk about'...(no eee mo jee available) Last edited by hardtimes; 02-17-2018 at 01:54 PM. Reason: .................. |
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02-17-2018, 02:13 PM | #7 |
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
If you go rattle can, 3 cans are required if you paint from the water pump to the torque tube.
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02-17-2018, 04:49 PM | #8 |
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Location: Portland OR
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
Most I have ever used is two for the full job, with some left over. Engine, flywheel housing, bell housing and transmission.
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02-18-2018, 11:24 AM | #9 |
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Location: upstate NY near Mass border
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
Anyone care to expand on the difference in color between Berts, Snyders and maybe others? Jack
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02-18-2018, 09:37 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Re: Model "A" engine paint
I think that it is more of a personal perception of the color. I feel that the Snyder's paint has a little more of a blue shade to it than I prefer. Bert's is pleasing to my eye. I have not tried paints for suppliers other than Snyder's and Bert's.
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