Juice Brake Identity Wanted

[stevests]

Help - can anyone identify this juice conversion on this A ? Master cylinder was I.D.'d as a F 1 Ford Truck - have a replacement for that but I have a leaky rear wheel cylinder so I need to repair or replace. It has sat for a number of years.
Thanks for any assistance !

[RalphM]

42-48 brake setup, drums are hub inside style, vs hub outside, but either will work with those backung plates.

[stevests]

I thank you kindly, Sir !

[38bill]

Do they always mount them upside down on an A?

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by 38bill

Do they always mount them upside down on an A?

Some do that so the spring perch won't interfere with the wheel cylinder.

[Fred A]

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I know much changed with the '42, but not the brakes. We get used to bunching-up those years as the rest of the car changed little. I prefer the postwar rear brakes but family tradition compels my finding Zephyr/Bendix for the front. Upside down allows clearance for the Model
a spring perch. Again the postwar design is better as the prewar centering adjustment is crowded by the perches. I used the postwar brakes on a Model A, but redrilled the backing plates and cut an eighth off of the bell flange to keep the drum from rubbing. Much better. Something just not great about bleeding inverted rears. Good Luck: Fred A

[stevests]

Appreciate the input fellas !

[rich b]

Always a little curious about how much braking was lost with the small side of the wheel cylinder pushing on the leading shoe when flipped side to side and inverted; probably doesn't matter much on lightweight A.

[Mart]

Along the same lines as Rich b's comment above, I have seen this conversion before and I think with a little more work it could be improved.
There would be 2 benefits:
1, The brakes would work as intended, with the long shoe and big end of the cylinder on the primary side.
2, the bleed nipple would be at the top of the cylinder.

What you have to realise is that the primary side is now at the rear and not the front. The ideal orientation would be long shoe to the REAR and big end of cylinder to the REAR also. The cylinders would need swapping side to side and a slight modification made to where the cylinder mounts to the backplate. If I were doing the job I would file the large hole where the cylinder fits to allow the cylinder to be fitted upside down in the backplate. Three of the four bolt holes will line up as normal.

By making that small mod everything will work as intended and the bleed nipple will work better as it will be at the top.

Never done it, but have thought about it.
I wonder if anyone has ever done it.

Mart.

[Cool Kat with Hot Car]

why can't you swap the shoes so the primary one is to the front?

[stevests]

I'll look again but I believe all of the shoes have the same length lining - no leading or trailing ?

[Mart]

Originally Posted by Cool Kat with Hot Car

why can't you swap the shoes so the primary one is to the front?

The primary shoe is the one that forward rotation of the wheel pushes it against the pivot pin. As the pivot pin(s) are at the top the rear shoe is the primary shoe.

[Bored&Stroked]

In my mind, as these are NOT self-energizing brakes (there is nothing to pivot or move), then I would always keep the longer shoe on the same side of the wheel cylinder as it was designed to be on (as the wheel cylinder applies pressure differently to one piston/shoe vs the other). If you rotate the cylinder to put the bleeder on top, then you'd swap the shoes side-to-side.

That is my way of thinking!