By by B head

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

So this is why I lost a little power, and had combustion gas in the radiator.
The crack wasn’t visable to my naked eye.

[eagle]

Put the head on a BBQ grill, let it heat up good and hot, use an old piston ring as rod and weld it up. Leave it on the grill and cool it down slowly. V it out a bit first of course.

[Charlie Stephens]

If you are running it in a Model A I would replace it with one of the aftermarket high compression Model A heads (requires new water pump) and benefit from the increased compression. If you want to stick with the Model B head I would replace it with another one.

Charlie Stephens

[Jim Brierley]

A crack in that area can easily be brazed. Drill a small hole at upper end of crack to prevent crack from enlarging, grind the crack to open it a little and give more area for the brass, not clear thru. Pre-heat whole head, braze the crack including the gasket-surface, wrap the whole head with a blanket or something to retain heat for many hours while it cools, re-machine or file flat. Machining is best to insure flatness and gasket life. Should be ready to go. OR, buy a new head that is higher in compression!

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

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The top of the head has multiple cracks, probably from a freeze sometime. Which probably started the one in the combustion chamber. It’s probably not worth the money? Anyway I’ve got a new 5.5 on it now. Next time I go to cast iron mikes, I’ll get an estimate. He says he puts fly housings in a jig and that keeps them from warping. I want to take one up and do a test run. Be great if that’s true, they stay in alignment.