1934 V8 cranking pretty

[lbford25]

After sitting since 1957, it cranked with 6 volt optima, replaced battery cables, relay, secured all ground connections, and cleaned starter. Had to put it in 3rd gear and moved it back and forth then the starter kicked in.
I'm looking for spare plug boots and generator retainer nut and seal.
This is the new member of my team...Arnold.

[JSeery]

Nice!!

[corvette8n]

Good looking project, have fun.

[Terry,OH]

Generator attaches with a round flat washer, lock washer, and nut. This hardware fits on the stud that is screwed into the front of the intake manifold. "spare plug boots and generator retainer nut and seal" What spare plug boots?? What seal do you need???
Originally the spark plugs do not have boots, the original style plug wires have brass loops on the plug end and the loops fit on the threaded spark plug top and are affixed with brass thumb nuts. Battery gets connected + to chassis.

[lbford25]

The retainer/seal? that screws on to the casing supporting the bearings. We did not know that it was a screw on so we busted it off thinking it was rusted shut. My bad, but that's where we are at. I think a pin flew off as well.

Yeah I'm worried about sparks jumping off the spark plugs.

[lbford25]

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Nothing happened when I connected the battery + post to ground wire and the negative post to the relay to the starter. Then when we connected the + post to the relay to the starter and the negative post to ground...it cranked. We are still puzzled by this but this is how it cranked often and smoothly.

[koates]

Hi there, Originally when new your 34 ford had a foot operated starter switch which was mounted on the two bolts on top of the steering box with a push rod coming up through the floor between the clutch and brake pedals. The starter relay (actually a solenoid) you mention is a later modification which is operated by a push button on the dash. This solenoid should operate either way, NEG or POS to ground battery connection. The 34 ford was battery POSITIVE to ground connection. Your generator then has to be polarized to match the battery ground polarity or it may not charge. To polarize the generator just remove the battery wire at the front terminal of the round cut out on top of the generator and touch it briefly on to the back cut out terminal which will spark a little. Your dash ammeter may read the wrong way if the battery is fitted NEG to ground. The externally threaded die cast retaining ring that holds the two generator tapered roller bearings into the end housing to my knowledge has not been reproduced by anyone so you may have to find another early V8 generator to salvage one. These are fairly fragile and are usually butchered to some degree. Would be good if some one could make these from brass. This threaded ring also adjusts the tension setting on those two roller bearings the same as the front wheel bearings so it has to be adjusted correctly. The seal you mention is just a round felt washer (actually two of these). You mention a missing pin ?? There is a round wire circlip that locks the adjusting ring in position. This might be missing. The ford illustrated parts book 1928 to 34 has a good exploded view of that generator. May be someone good at posting pics to send this in. Your spark plug leads don't need any rubber boots on a 1934 flathead ford. Any type of brass plug lead end terminal would do the job for you. Plenty listed on ebay or one of the ford suppliers such as Macs or others. Im puzzled by your starter solenoid only working Neg ground battery. It should work either way. Post some sharp pics of the solenoid and wiring set up. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Just a rethink on the solenoid. Depending on which way around you are connecting the main battery cable and the cable to the starter motor. Try swapping them around on the large solenoid terminals. There are a number of different types of solenoids and variations on their internal winding connections and terminals. Regards, Kevin.

[Terry,OH]

A couple of diagrams of the generator.

[koates]

That's good Terry. Thanks.

[lbford25]

Thank you Koates and Terry. I will post some clearer pics of the relay system.

Can I fire up the engine without the generator and water pumps attached? It seems to want to start. I have disconnected the fuel line to the gas tank and have a hook up to a gasoline can.

[Lawson Cox]

Yes. Crank away. Just don't run it very long or it will get hot pretty quick.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by lbford25

Thank you Koates and Terry. I will post some clearer pics of the relay system.

Can I fire up the engine without the generator and water pumps attached? It seems to want to start. I have disconnected the fuel line to the gas tank and have a hook up to a gasoline can.

After sitting for a long time they like a shot of starting fluid. G.M.

[lbford25]

Thanks all! Here is a pic of the relay set up. the middle wire is to the push button to start that's on the dashboard. i quess where the cigarette lighter used to be. The top is the new starter to starter switch wire. Bottom red is to the +battery post. The whole set worked only after we connected the relay box to the main engine frame( far left on the pic).