Exhaust pipe options (‘56 F-100)

[yblock57]

I’ve purchased reproduction Ram-horn manifolds for my ‘56 272 to replace the stock crossover pipe.

I’m trying to avoid taking the truck to a muffler shop to have pipes made. No good local shops around here that I’d trust. All I really need are the header pipes that come down from the manifolds and turn back. The rest of the system will be simple straight back past the cab and turn down (like the original single pipe on the passenger side.)

None of the catalogs list anything. Was thinking about buying one of those generic kits from summit. Would like to stay 2” diameter. Anybody done this with ram-horns on a y-block? What say y’all?

[craig]

First, where the pipe connects to the manifold, does it use a flat plate with a gasket or is the manifold opening tapered for a donut type gasket, If it's a donut, then a muffler shop will have to flare the end of the pipe so it will seal and you'll need a floating tapered plate to attach it. If it's a flat gasket seal, then you'll have to get a flat plate welded to the end of the pipe. Once you've figured that out, then take a long piece of torch type welding rod and bend it the shape you need for these exhaust pipes and take that to the muffler shop and have them bend the pipe to match your wire patterns. At this point you have really no choice but to use a muffler shop. It's a very simple procedure for any guy with a bender to do, and you won't end up with a cobble job.
One more thing, you mentioned keeping it 2". Don't assume the manifold outlets are 2", measure them first, you can always reduce the pipe size toward the mufflers

[darrell]

you cant beat the look of those ram horns.

[yblock57]

Originally Posted by craig

First, where the pipe connects to the manifold, does it use a flat plate with a gasket or is the manifold opening tapered for a donut type gasket, If it's a donut, then a muffler shop will have to flare the end of the pipe so it will seal and you'll need a floating tapered plate to attach it. If it's a flat gasket seal, then you'll have to get a flat plate welded to the end of the pipe. Once you've figured that out, then take a long piece of torch type welding rod and bend it the shape you need for these exhaust pipes and take that to the muffler shop and have them bend the pipe to match your wire patterns. At this point you have really no choice but to use a muffler shop. It's a very simple procedure for any guy with a bender to do, and you won't end up with a cobble job.
One more thing, you mentioned keeping it 2". Don't assume the manifold outlets are 2", measure them first, you can always reduce the pipe size toward the mufflers

Howdy Craig —

The manifolds will require a flat plate with a gasket. The outlet size is 2”. For some reason they didn’t come with studs, so I’ll have to source those.

My main reasoning for trying to find something ‘pre-made’ was twofold: stay away from the muffler shop, and not have welded seams that will eventually rust. I’d prefer stainless or aluminized pipe. If all else fails, your welding rod tip is a great idea.

I know folks make the 2” kits for passenger cars & thunderbirds with the correct flanges. If all else fails, maybe I can buy the header pipes and have them bent to the angles I need using your method. Just thinking out loud.

Any other suggestions or tips on a ‘kit’ for a different application that might come close to what I need?

[craig]

I understand you want to stay away from the muffler shops. But even if you do find a pre-bent head pipe, the flange is still going to be welded on. If you had someone bend them to fit, use aluminized pipe and a mig welder and it will probably last longer than the pickup. The rest of the system can all be built by expanding pipe and slipping another into it and the whole thing could be clamped together like a factory system. No matter what you do, I don't know anyway around a flat flange being attached to a pipe without being welded

[miker98038]

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I don't know if this helps with your problem. But it's interesting reading on a lot of manifolds on Ted Eaton's "mule motor" on the dyno. Keep reading, it's long. More combinations on the end. The rams horns with 2.25" are on the first page.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic55379.aspx

Theres a shop up in Auburn WA that does the flanges for FPA. I'd think they could do a flange and short down tube for the rams horns. Not that much to ship. Let me know if you want contact info.

[yblock57]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I don't know if this helps with your problem. But it's interesting reading on a lot of manifolds on Ted Eaton's "mule motor" on the dyno. Keep reading, it's long. More combinations on the end. The rams horns with 2.25" are on the first page.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic55379.aspx

Theres a shop up in Auburn WA that does the flanges for FPA. I'd think they could do a flange and short down tube for the rams horns. Not that much to ship. Let me know if you want contact info.

Miker98038 —

Interesting that you’d mention that comparison. Was just reading the article in the latest issue of Y-block magazine.

I’d absolutely appreciate the shop’s contact info. Feel free to PM.