Another flathead followed me home

[36coupe]

I picked up 8ba this morning, all I knew it wasn't seized and came with an automatic.
I pulled the heads one was 8rt and the other eac. G11 636 stamped on the top right rear of the block. Pulled the intake and 8ba83 cast in the valley so I guess that makes it a 49 ford?
One bent valve and a couple stuck, clean bores 40 over pistions and a rebuild tag that says 20 over from 1958.
Right rear exhaust valve has a broken retainer and the fork looking piece was in the valley. I figure the missing pieces are in the oil pan. It was stored in doors and the oil is still in the pan. I would to see if it would run with the smallest outlay of cash. I was thinking of lapping the valves, clean it up and put it back together.
Does this make sense?

[36coupe]

Pics

[36coupe]

Disassembled

[36coupe]

I found where the cracks had been stitched between the head bolts and water jacket. Cool repair probably from the factory rebuild. Can you silver solder cracks in blocks?

[tiger.1000]

36; the technique of silver soldering is similar to brazing. Material to be soldered needs to be brought up to almost red-heat and in the case of a cast iron block that may prove to be impossible

[scooder]

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Yes, blocks, heads n stuff has been silver souldered successfully. Purty sure Pete (the cam) has used this to fix porting that hit water. I had a Model B engine in an old Model T hot dog, that had a silver soulder repaired crack about 3" long in the head, from above the valves to over the piston. I gave that rooster hell, never a problem.
Lindsay,
looks like a nice find. I would pull it apart properly and check it out. Might save future heart ache. Might be all good, but 8BA bearings n stuff are cheap, so why not check it out. Could have a real nice engine for a gasket set, bearings and a hone with new rings. Might get away with just gaskets, and the obvious parts that you've already found.
Keep us posted.
That's what I'd do. And you'd know exactly what you got.
If the cracks are already stitched, why you asking about silver soulder? I'd leave them be.
Martin.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by scooder

Yes, blocks, heads n stuff has been silver souldered successfully. Purty sure Pete (the cam) has used this to fix porting that hit water. I had a Model B engine in an old Model T hot dog, that had a silver soulder repaired crack about 3" long in the head, from above the valves to over the piston. I gave that rooster hell, never a problem.
Lindsay,
looks like a nice find. I would pull it apart properly and check it out. Might save future heart ache. Might be all good, but 8BA bearings n stuff are cheap, so why not check it out. Could have a real nice engine for a gasket set, bearings and a hone with new rings. Might get away with just gaskets, and the obvious parts that you've already found.
Keep us posted.
That's what I'd do. And you'd know exactly what you got.
If the cracks are already stitched, why you asking about silver soulder? I'd leave them be.
Martin.

Hi Martin,
I asked about the silver solder after seeing the stitching ( looks like the plugs are brass used in the stitching ) knowing they some times silver solder sleeves in the cylinder barrels of Indians. I've attached broken fins on barrels with silver solder years ago. I know a lots of questionable blocks have been condemned because of cracks.

What would be the proper way to go at this? I've never pulled a flathead apart.
Number the valves and pull them.
Pull the oil pan.
Number the mains and remove the crank.
Number the Pistons and pull them.
Order mains, 040 over rings, a couple valves, spring retainer, gasket set.
Lap valves and check guides.(all the valves are the dished type with ford logo)
Hone cylinders.
Check mains.
What else needs to be looked at? Where to order parts?

I think the engine was factory rebuild in 1958 20 over and then at a later date rebuilt 40 over and run very little and the spring retainer broke cause the rear right valve to basically stop working. The bent valve in #2 cylinder, I am not sure what happened there. There is one other valve in #6 that is tight but moves. I think the intake valve in #8 is stuck as went I turn the engine over it stops before that valve opens.
I've been soaking the valve train with MMO and acetone.
Not sure how to get a valve to move that is stuck in the closed position.

Are there any plans online to build the bracket that attaches to the exhaust ports to hold the engine in an engine stand?

Sorry for the long winded reply.
I'll try to do a build thread on refreshing this one this summer. Should be fun project.
Thanks

[36coupe]

Any idea what G11 636 tells me. It is stamped on the right rear top deck of the block. Canadian block probably

[corvette8n]

Can't help you with the numbers but I been trying to get a flathead to follow me home for the last 6 years sounds like a good project.

[36coupe]

I paid 100$ Canadian which is about 78usd and had to drive 20 minutes to pick it up. It also came with a generator and starter and an automatic with the torque converter and a gigantic hogshead bell housing. I don't think the bell housing and transmission are worth anything but I might be wrong. I googled flathead adaptor and going to see if I have the material to build one laying around.
I'm not working at the moment so I have time but no money.

[JSeery]

Have you checked out VanPelts bellhousing page?

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...s-adapters.htm

And Wilcap: http://www.wilcap.com/flathead.html#FHID

[19Fordy]

Are there any plans online to build the bracket that attaches to the exhaust ports to hold the engine in an engine stand?

You can safely use and engine stand that bolts to the 8BA bell housing. Just make sure it has 4 pts. of contact with the ground - not 3.

[36coupe]

Took way too long but I made an adaptor for the made in China eng sand, bolted to the exhaust ports.
Seems sturdy enough
Had to scrounge for metal scraps and weld them together but it should hold

[36coupe]

Ugly but functional

[36coupe]

Rear valve #4 dropped a guide.
I guess there are oversized ones are available ?
Found all the pieces to the retainer as well.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Have you checked out VanPelts bellhousing page?

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...s-adapters.htm

And Wilcap: http://www.wilcap.com/flathead.html#FHID

Not much mention of auto bell housings that I can find.

[36coupe]

Check out the water pumps. Was this stock? One is 3-1/2" and the other 4" from the block to the centre of the pulley. It looks like they would run on different pulleys

[Mart]

That's right, they do. If you want a single belt, you run the truck pumps.

Mart.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by Mart

That's right, they do. If you want a single belt, you run the truck pumps.

Mart.

Okay, if you threw one belt could you still drive very far with one pump or would half the engine overheat?

On removing the valves I read the VanPelt site and I see that after removing the spring retainer the complete valve assemble comes out with the guide....maybe.
There is no ridge on the top of the bore and looking at the cam lobes from the bottom it looks like new.

I don't have an immediate plan for the engine so i want to spend as little as possible. Should I strip it down and have it hot tanked or just pull the crank and pistons and hone the cylinders, install new rings?

Is the only way to check the crank bearing with plastic gauge?

[JSeery]

"Okay, if you threw one belt could you still drive very far with one pump or would half the engine overheat?"

The water systems in a flathead engine are totally separated, you would not want to run the engine on one pump.

I would clean the block up and check it for cracks and/or any other damage (pressure test) before I put any other money into it, but that is just my approach.