2 year-old Brassworks radiator leaking at top tank?

[ltdann]

Funny, I have a radiator that has done the same thing. Not sure if it is Brassworks or not, but the neck has started to come off the radiator.

Rich Dann

[mkmskm]

Upon further looking my leak was not the fault of the radiator. My head gasket was starting to go in cylinder #3 so it was excess pressure into the system. I got it fixed and it will go back into the car tonight.

[The Brassworks]

Originally Posted by Aerocraft

If you look carefully at original Model A radiators, you will see that mechanical fasteners (small rivets) were used to secure and strengthen the attachment of the neck and both inlet and outlets. I have often wondered why the reproduction radiator manufacturers don't use rivets. I have seen some filler necks on repo radiators just "butt" soldered without any flange on the neck. That is just a leak waiting to happen. Gar Williams

Inlets are not butt soldered.

The solder joint used on an inlet to tank connection is commonly referred to as a lap joint. Rivets were used in 1928 and 1929 and they can be used again. A solder joint failure two years after construction may be caused by the same things that caused it in 1928; vibration and thermal cycling. Using rivets may not resolve that issue. Naturally, we will review the strength of this joint with its present construction and, if it is warranted, make a change to the product.

Butt solder joint would be done with silver solder which results in a joint stronger than the metals being joined.

As always, if anyone wants a modification to the product (including the addition of rivets) they need only call us directly and make the request. We make custom radiators every day.

[Mike V. Florida]

Brassworks, are you allowed to use lead solder or do you have to use the all tin stuff?

ALREADY ANSWERED AND I MISSED IT, SORRY

I was thinking that maybe the harder Tin only crap could have been a cause.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Brassworks, are you allowed to use lead solder or do you have to use the all tin stuff?

Mike, see post #20

[[email protected]]

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I have also seen issues in the past with some of the repro Motormeter rad caps causing leaks on the rad top tube by stress cracking the joint. Often you would not have a problem seeing these coolant leaks until you are pulling up a hill. The motormeter radiator cap flange sometimes rests directly on the rad shell and then the rad cap is fastened down with the allen cap screws inside the rad neck. If over tightened your motormeter / or quail rad cap can act like a gear puller on the rad top tube. Solution is to watch these clearances carefully. You can make the radiator filler hole bigger on the radiator shell for it to clear or raise up the motormeter collar flange by adding internal gaskets to raise it up high enough to clear the top of the radiator shell.

[Hobie Beneux]

I had a B/W in my 1931 Ford streetrod P/U with Chevrolet 355. I went out recently to work on it and the top tank and cracked in many places. I pulled it out and put in a Walker Z series Heavy duty radiator. B/W has fallen in their materials and craftsmanship. I'm happy Walker came to the rescue.
07/20/2014

HB.

[[email protected]]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I have also seen issues in the past with some of the repro Motormeter rad caps causing leaks on the rad top tube by stress cracking the joint. Often you would not have a problem seeing these coolant leaks until you are pulling up a hill. The motormeter radiator cap flange sometimes rests directly on the rad shell and then the rad cap is fastened down with the allen cap screws inside the rad neck. If over tightened your motormeter / or quail rad cap can act like a gear puller on the rad top tube. Solution is to watch these clearances carefully. You can make the radiator filler hole bigger on the radiator shell for it to clear or raise up the motormeter collar flange by adding internal gaskets to raise it up high enough to clear the top of the radiator shell.

I recently found out that the OEM manufacturer of the Radiators that are being sold by several Model A vendors is now being made with a new radiator top tube that is 1/8" longer then before. This is to address this issue of the motormeters / quails, etc. pushing down on the radiator shells.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Hobie Beneux

I had a B/W in my 1931 Ford streetrod P/U with Chevrolet 355. I went out recently to work on it and the top tank and cracked in many places. I pulled it out and put in a Walker Z series Heavy duty radiator. B/W has fallen in their materials and craftsmanship. I'm happy Walker came to the rescue.
07/20/2014

HB.

Seriously, you come dig up a 2 year old thread and speak about your street rod radiator in your first post? May I ask 'Why'??