How to fix this leak in 59A?

[Old Henry]

It looks like the water is leaking around this head bolt under the oil filter bracket. Any ideas what caused it and how to fix it?

[mfagan]

When I installed the studs in my 8ba it was recommend to
seal the stud with a ceramic sealer. That will probably take
care of the problem.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by mfagan

When I installed the studs in my 8ba it was recommend to
seal the stud with a ceramic sealer. That will probably take
care of the problem.

So, can I just remove the three nuts securing the oil filter bracket, remove the bracket, and seal the stud without removing the entire head?

[Don]

Might try some Barrs stop leak Good stuff..

[alan]

permatex #2 on the stud threads will also work very well, with a cold engine, coolant level below bolts, remove the offending studs, clean the threads, put permatex on the clean stud threads and re-install. or try to seal the threads with Barr's Leak, the dissolving pellet form works best for me, follow directions and forget the stud removal, as we all know that can be a nightmare!!

[Old Henry]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Don

Might try some Barrs stop leak Good stuff..

Originally Posted by alan

try to seal the threads with Barr's Leak, the dissolving pellet form works best for me, follow directions and forget the stud removal, as we all know that can be a nightmare!!

I've never liked the idea of the Bar's Leak mess in my coolant so have never tried it but probably prefer that to removing the studs if that's what's necessary. So, once the Bar's Leak has sealed the leak can I drain it out and have it stay sealed?

[mfagan]

As I remember, you recently rebuilt this engine.
If the studs were removed at that time, they may
not be difficult to remove.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by mfagan

As I remember, you recently rebuilt this engine.
If the studs were removed at that time, they may
not be difficult to remove.

Don't you have to take the head off to remove a stud?

[Kahuna]

What is the ceramic sealer? Brand name?
Thanks
Jim

[Jack E/NJ]

Doesn't look like much of a leak. Leave it alone.

Jack E/NJ

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Doesn't look like much of a leak. Leave it alone.

Jack E/NJ

That's generally my sentiment too but I've lost a gallon over the last two days so gotta do something. It's costing me money for anti-freeze.

[B-O-B]

Kahuna
water glass ==sodium silicate get it @ wally world or parts house.

[51 MERC-CT]

If they are loose enough it may be possible to use double nuts (may require one thin nut) The nuts are tightened on each other and then remove (hopefully) the stud by turning the nut closest to the head.
Or another alternative that may be worth a shot.

[Rich/Alabama]

Henry/Kahuna,
I used Moroso Ceramic Seal when I rebuilt my 59L and it worked pretty good. I still had to seal the threads on each stud with Permatex Aviation sealer. Running more than a 7lb. rad cap will make them weep a little so I only use a 7lb. cap in the hot months and a 0lb. the majority of the time. It doesn't overheat with the 0lb. cap even in hot weather but the 7lb. cap keeps the coolant level a little higher in the upper tank.

[mfagan]

Moroso ceramic sealer is the brand recommended by
Speedway. I used their stud set.

[Wmgmitchell]

Henry, my flathead was rebuilt recently and I had water leaks from two head bolts. I tried Barrs to no avail. What worked was loosening or removing the affected bolts and applying Permatex RTV between the bolt and the head. I then installed and re-torqued the bolts and haven't seen any leaks since.

[GOSFAST]

Hi Henry, it will eventually stop on it's own, but if you want a "quick-fix" use some of the "pellets" that GM puts in every new car they deliver from the assembly lines.

These pellets will stop some very serious leaks.

I've placed a photo below of them along with the Permatex #1 hard-setting sealer we use on EVERY build through here with studs OR bolts! This includes Chev's, Ford's, etc.

Haven't had any fastener (water) leaks from any Flathead builds using this method, not a single one, even with Fel-Pro's "copper" gaskets!

We normally get to dyno these builds regularly and have much feedback from the test runs!

On a side note, if you choose ANY "stop-leak" products I would isolate the heater core temporarily from the system, many of these additives have the ability to help "clog" older cores. This is just as a precaution, even with new cores I would still isolate them!

(Add) Regardless of how you proceed if it's not a major issue I would remove the leaking stud/studs one at a time and reseal them.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of both products, G.M. usually has the pellets in stock!

[V8COOPMAN]

Waiting with genuine interest to see how you ultimately decide to "fix" this one, henry. Crack at stud in block, maybe...what do I know? Sorry, but I probably don't have any good advice that you would seriously consider. DD

[Mart]

If a stud is leaking, presumably the water is coming up past the thread, I wonder if that would make it a safe assumption that the stud can't be too tight/siezed in the block and may be relatively easy to remove.

I don't know the answer, just thinking out loud.

Mart.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

If they are loose enough it may be possible to use double nuts (may require one thin nut) The nuts are tightened on each other and then remove (hopefully) the stud by turning the nut closest to the head.
Or another alternative that may be worth a shot.

One thing that I must have done is to take a sacrificial nut and cut a slot in one side, thread it on the stud and use vise grips to clamp the nut on. If the stud is not a real tight fit (consistant with the fact that it's leaking) this will work.
Karl