Revisiting head stud removal. Ugh!!!!!!

[Tim Ayers]

Hi Folks:

I know there have a few threads about removing heads studs. I've actually contributed to some of those threads. Picked up motor at Hershey. Since Sunday I've been soaking the studs with Kroil and 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone a few times a day.

The one I tried to remove, I heated it first and melted beeswax down the stud.

I was using a Mayhew collet-type stud remover I got from my Snap-On guy. Well, that first stud I used the tool on broke off almost immediately. I was using a Milwaukee M-18 3/8" impact gun, so it's got some power, but not air gun power.

Previously, I've used the old fashioned side wheel type to remove studs.

With 47 studs to go, I'm looking for suggestions, tips, opinions on how to best proceed.

Looking at some of the remaining studs, it looks like they are going to fight me the entire way through.

[corvette8n]

Like you I'm in the process also, broke 4 of the 24 on one side, haven't started on the other side yet. The process that seem to work the best on mine is heating the stud with mapp gas(don't have an acetelyne torch), using the snap-on stud remover, and a long HF breaker bar. I put the stud remover tight against the block and put pressure on the breaker bar, if it doesn't seem to move I apply more heat and try again. Hope that helps.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

Like you I'm in the process also, broke 4 of the 24 on one side, haven't started on the other side yet. The process that seem to work the best on mine is heating the stud with mapp gas(don't have an acetelyne torch), using the snap-on stud remover, and a long HF breaker bar. I put the stud remover tight against the block and put pressure on the breaker bar, if it doesn't seem to move I apply more heat and try again. Hope that helps.

Thank you. I'm thinking of using a breaker bar as well. I was hoping the "shock" of the impact would help break the rust loose.

[corvette8n]

Like you I'm in the process also, broke 4 of the 24 on one side, haven't started on the other side yet. The process that seem to work the best on mine is heating the stud with mapp gas(don't have an acetelyne torch), using the snap-on stud remover, and a long HF breaker bar. I put the stud remover tight against the block and put pressure on the breaker bar, if it doesn't seem to move I apply more heat and try again. Hope that helps.

[papanomad]

just finished 2nd block in last year and did not break any studs. I used acetylene torch to heat studs and bees wax. if stud did not move just repeat procedure until stud moves. may take 4-5 tries but they all came out. block I just finished sat outside for about 40 years and was really rusty.

[Tim Ayers]

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Originally Posted by papanomad

just finished 2nd block in last year and did not break any studs. I used acetylene torch to heat studs and bees wax. if stud did not move just repeat procedure until stud moves. may take 4-5 tries but they all came out. block I just finished sat outside for about 40 years and was really rusty.

OK, thank you. I'm going to be really patient with the heat this time.


To be clear, are you talking about an acetylene "B" tank like you use for plumbing or an oxy/acetylene used for cutting?

[flatjack9]

I also use the heat process, then hit the stud with a wet rag. I use a torque wrench and if it won't move with 70 lbs of torque, I repeat the process.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I also use the heat process, then hit the stud with a wet rag. I use a torque wrench and if it won't move with 70 lbs of torque, I repeat the process.

I like this too. I will try it. Never thought of using a torque wrench, but that makes sense.

I'm going to use the welded nut trick to get that broken stud out.

[Vics Stuff]

When loosening those studs . Always remember to apply steady pressure to the stud to loosen them. If using a air wrench you are going to shock the stud and almost every time you are going to brake them off.
Vic

[Vics Stuff]

If you are going to try welding a nut on there . You need to first , if the stud is broken off flush or below , weld a large flat washer on there first. This enables you to be able to reach down in the hole to the stud with the mig wire to make a good weld. The nut is to thick and you will have problems getting the mig wire down through the hole in the nut to reach the stud. After the washer is welded to the stud then weld a nut to the washer.
Vic

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Vics Stuff

If you are going to try welding a nut on there . You need to first , if the stud is broken off flush or below , weld a large flat washer on there first. This enables you to be able to reach down in the hole to the stud with the mig wire to make a good weld. The nut is to thick and you will have problems getting the mig wire down through the hole in the nut to reach the stud. After the washer is welded to the stud then weld a nut to the washer.
Vic

Thank you.

[KiWinUS]

I take a slightly different approach. If I care to spend enough time & oxy acetylene I can usually get them out. But that is being very patient & spending too much time. Being very impatient I now find the quickest way to complete whole process is soak with "Howes" just as soon as possible so it can sit. Then I attempt to screw them out, if they move I work back & forth & may come out. If they dont move I just go ahead & break them off, drill a 1/8th hole thru center & then just blow remains of stud out with oxy/acetylene. It will not damage thread. This works with any stud or bolt that is not in a blind hole. I have even done this on a Ch@v race engine & screwed in a fresh stud without even using a thead chaser.
For me this is the easiest & least time consuming way & never an issue.
Good luck Tim & have fun!!!
Cheers
Tony

[FL&WVMIKE]

Until you get a heat source that can heat the stud RED HOT, you are wasting your time. BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.

The only thing that will reliably break that rust bond is heat... and a propane torch simply won't cut it. You need a real torch. Once you get the stud RED HOT, it will back out like you put it in yesterday. Until then, STOP. You will only break off more studs, and make life worse for yourself.

If you don't know anyone with a real torch, or don't want to buy one for this one, simple job... the MAPP gas that has the oxygen cylinder with it will work. These look like Propane cylinders, but there are TWO of them... One MAP gas, and one oxygen. These WILL work. If you go this route, get 2-3 oxygen cylinders for every MAPP unit, as the oxygen runs out really fast. However, they have gone WAY up in price since the 80's lol. I would recommend getting a real torch.

This is the Benzomatic w/oxygen. Extra oxygen cylinders are around $25 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Cutting-Weldi...ic+mapp+oxygen

You can also get something like this from Harbor Freight for $329... and about an extra $50 to get the cylinders filled. (a more permanent solution) Coupons and sales are also easy to come by for the Harbor Freight stuff, so that will knock quite a bit off the price. You can also visit your local welding shop, and see what they have to offer.
https://www.harborfreight.com/portab...nks-65818.html

EDIT!!!!!
Here's the same torch on Ebay for $198!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...BubB:rk:2:pf:0

Of course, if you have a friend with a real torch, that also works!

Good Luck!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by FL&WVMIKE

Until you get a heat source that can heat the stud RED HOT, you are wasting your time. BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.

The only thing that will reliably break that rust bond is heat... and a propane torch simply won't cut it. You need a real torch. Once you get the stud RED HOT, it will back out like you put it in yesterday. Until then, STOP. You will only break off more studs, and make life worse for yourself.

If you don't know anyone with a real torch, or don't want to buy one for this one, simple job... the MAPP gas that has the oxygen cylinder with it will work. These look like Propane cylinders, but there are TWO of them... One MAP gas, and one oxygen. These WILL work. If you go this route, get 2-3 oxygen cylinders for every MAPP unit, as the oxygen runs out really fast. However, they have gone WAY up in price since the 80's lol. I would recommend getting a real torch.

This is the Benzomatic w/oxygen. Extra oxygen cylinders are around $25 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Cutting-Weldi...ic+mapp+oxygen

You can also get something like this from Harbor Freight for $329... and about an extra $50 to get the cylinders filled. (a more permanent solution) Coupons and sales are also easy to come by for the Harbor Freight stuff, so that will knock quite a bit off the price. You can also visit your local welding shop, and see what they have to offer.
https://www.harborfreight.com/portab...nks-65818.html

EDIT!!!!!
Here's the same torch on Ebay for $198!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...BubB:rk:2:pf:0

Of course, if you have a friend with a real torch, that also works!

Good Luck!

Thank you. I have these tanks. I'll try these. They run through gas very quickly. I'll see if I can get extra tanks.

[FL&WVMIKE]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Thank you. I have these tanks. I'll try these. They run through gas very quickly. I'll see if I can get extra tanks.

If you're talking about the Bernzomatic kits, the cylinders are available at Home Depot. Just buy 2-3 oxygen tanks for each MAPP cylinder.

Oxygen is $10.97 each.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...4179/202044702

MAPP is $11.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...2477/203226566

Good Luck

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by FL&WVMIKE

If you're talking about the Bernzomatic kits, the cylinders are available at Home Depot. Just buy 2-3 oxygen tanks for each MAPP cylinder.

Oxygen is $10.97 each.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...4179/202044702

MAPP is $11.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...2477/203226566

Good Luck

No. I have the tote torch kit. My oxy bottle is out of date. I may just buy a large torch set

[Ronnieroadster]

Tim studs must get cherry red like others have written thats the only way to free up the rust. When I do this type of work I heat every stud yes all 48 during the same time frame and then walk away until the next day.
I use the simple side wheel remover its an old design that works well with this process. Its rare to break one doing it this way at least that's what I have experienced.
However if a stud is found broken I simply TIG weld a nut to the remaining stud the added heat from the welding helps loosen the rust then it becomes a simple removal using a socket and ratchet.
Ronnieroadster

[rich b]

Stud (and broken stud) removal is one of those things that are a nightmare to some and all in a days work to others.

Real heat (read oxy/acetylene) and the proper tools go a long way in making it the latter.

Good luck with your project.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Tim studs must get cherry red like others have written thats the only way to free up the rust. When I do this type of work I heat every stud yes all 48 during the same time frame and then walk away until the next day.
I use the simple side wheel remover its an old design that works well with this process. Its rare to break one doing it this way at least that's what I have experienced.
However if a stud is found broken I simply TIG weld a nut to the remaining stud the added heat from the welding helps loosen the rust then it becomes a simple removal using a socket and ratchet.
Ronnieroadster

OK. I pulled out my torch set and will do the same.

[Step-down]

I slide oversize nut on the stud then welded before the stud broke off . If stud is broken like Vic Stuff said different operation. I used 8ba bolts for final assembly