1935 with 1946 spindles which drag link?

[Ball and Chain]

I have a 1935 running a 1935 axle but has been upgraded to juice brakes via 1946 spindles. I need to buy a drag link. I'm not sure if I should buy the 35 -40, 41 or 42- 48 drag link. My drag link bolts taper down like a 41-48 but i dont have the width of a 42-48 car. Can i buy a 37 -40 drag link and rotate the tie rod on the spindle side. Or maybe a 41 only drag link since it bolts taper down but is a narrow track like a 35? Or a 42 -48 and adjust in the tie rod?
Any input is appreciated.

Thanks Kevin

[JSeery]

Are you referring to the tie-rod and tie-rod ends or the drag link? You can have a tie-rod made to any length you want. They have Left-hand threads in one end and Right-hand threads in the other so you can fine adjust the toe-in by twisting it to move the end in and out.

The drag link has to match the spindle at the front and the pitman arm at the back.

As an example using Speedway:

"These tie rod or drag link kits are pre-cut and tapped lengths of 7⁄8" O.D. tubing available multiple lengths. Kits come complete with 11/16" traditional 7° tie rod ends and jam nuts. Tubing will be tapped with right-hand & left-hand threads for adjustability.

Specify desired length in comments section of shopping cart. No returns/exchange on custom length links. Select your length based on the center-to-center of the tie rod ends, which will also be the eye-to-eye distance between the steering arms (the acutal tube will be 3-1/2" shorter than length selected). At selected length, the link will be adjustable from 1/2" shorter to 3/4" longer.

•Precut and tapped lengths of 7/8" O.D. tubing
•Available in these assembled lengths: 25.5", 28.5", 30", 32", 42.5", 44", 45", 46", 48", 52.5", and 54"
•Complete with 11/16" tie rod ends and jam nuts
•Adjustable from 1/2" shorter to 3/4" longer
•Available in plain steel
•All lengths measured eye-to-eye"

[Ball and Chain]

I mean the bent tie rod assembly from the passenger side spindle to the pitman arm. Id like to use something original so i dont have to reinvent the wheel on the geometry.

Thanks Kevin

Originally Posted by JSeery

Are you referring to the tie-rod and tie-rod ends or the drag link? You can have a tie-rod made to any length you want. They have Left-hand threads in one end and Right-hand threads in the other so you can fine adjust the toe-in by twisting it to move the end in and out.

The drag link has to match the spindle at the front and the pitman arm at the back.

As an example using Speedway:

"These tie rod or drag link kits are pre-cut and tapped lengths of 7⁄8" O.D. tubing available multiple lengths. Kits come complete with 11/16" traditional 7° tie rod ends and jam nuts. Tubing will be tapped with right-hand & left-hand threads for adjustability.

Specify desired length in comments section of shopping cart. No returns/exchange on custom length links. Select your length based on the center-to-center of the tie rod ends, which will also be the eye-to-eye distance between the steering arms (the acutal tube will be 3-1/2" shorter than length selected). At selected length, the link will be adjustable from 1/2" shorter to 3/4" longer.

•Precut and tapped lengths of 7/8" O.D. tubing
•Available in these assembled lengths: 25.5", 28.5", 30", 32", 42.5", 44", 45", 46", 48", 52.5", and 54"
•Complete with 11/16" tie rod ends and jam nuts
•Adjustable from 1/2" shorter to 3/4" longer
•Available in plain steel
•All lengths measured eye-to-eye"

[JSeery]

Some additional suggestions. I would upgrade the steering to a later model year (37 or later) which will greatly improve the steering.

[Ball and Chain]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Some additional suggestions. I would upgrade the steering to a later model year which will greatly improve the steering. I would modify or switch the pitman arm to one that will take later model tie-rod end (7 degree type).

I have a 1939 steering box, i was going to use the shorter 35 pitman arm for a little quicker steering or i have the stock 39. But with the later spindle i just need to know what year drag lin to order. Can a flip a 35-40 and run it on the underside? Is a 35 pitman arm not the same taper on the tie rod end?

[JSeery]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Ball and Chain

I mean the bent tie rod assembly from the passenger side spindle to the pitman arm. Id like to use something original so i dont have to reinvent the wheel on the geometry.

Thanks Kevin

I was thinking 34 for some reason, LOL. The 35 uses the tapered ends correct? I would cut an original or repo and weld in the section you need to get the correct length. Be sure it is welded by a certified welder!!

Another idea, not sure how much additional length you are needing, but a longer adjusting collar would increase the overall length.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ball and Chain

Can a flip a 35-40 and run it on the underside? Is a 35 pitman arm not the same taper on the tie rod end?

You cannot flip the '35-'40. Using the '41 as pictured below is probably going to work best.....it clears the bottom of the wishbone. ALL the tapered holes that we are discussing are tapered the same at 7 degrees. DD

[skidmarks]

I weld the tie rod end hole up and ream it from the other side.

[scooder]

Originally Posted by Ball and Chain

I have a 1939 steering box, i was going to use the shorter 35 pitman arm for a little quicker steering or i have the stock 39. But with the later spindle i just need to know what year drag lin to order. Can a flip a 35-40 and run it on the underside? Is a 35 pitman arm not the same taper on the tie rod end?

The shorter 35 Pittman arm will not give you quicker steering. It'll give you lighter slower steering. For quicker steering changing only the Pittman arm, you'd need a longer Pittman arm. This would also give you heavier steering.
Martin.

[Mart]

In the pic above, it might have been easier to redrill the arm from below as suggested above. In my experience you can drill the taper from both sides without having to weld up first. Some steering arms were sold like this in the aftermarket. I have not seen a drag link like that before in the pic above.

[scooder]

Just reminded me Mart,
In the past I swapped a drag link end from over to under the steering arm, what I did was break apart an old steering joint (Rod end), ground some flats on the ball part for purchase, cut a couple of slots in the taper, and shaped the taper from the slots so it made a rudimentary reaming tool. And used this to cut the steering arm taper from the other direction. Wasn't the greatest tool in the box, but it's what I had. As you said, the taper only has to go half way through the arm to do the job.
Martin.

[JSeery]

The reamers are nice, but a bit on the expensive side if you don't use them much.

[TJ]

Find a shop that will ream the spindle from the bottom for the Ford tie rod end. I've user pitman arms that were done that way and never had a problem.

[Ball and Chain]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You cannot flip the '35-'40. Using the '41 as pictured below is probably going to work best.....it clears the bottom of the wishbone. ALL the tapered holes that we are discussing are tapered the same at 7 degrees. DD

BINGO!!!

Thanks Everybody!

[Ball and Chain]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You cannot flip the '35-'40. Using the '41 as pictured below is probably going to work best.....it clears the bottom of the wishbone. ALL the tapered holes that we are discussing are tapered the same at 7 degrees. DD

One more quick question? I found the original post when I searched the part number? Should the taper be up or down on the pitman arm if I run the 41 drag link on my 39/40 box?

[V8COOPMAN]

You've asked a really good question. And, I do NOT have the definitive answer for you about this little-understood and probably "one-year-only" 1941 Ford front axle parts B/S. I DO know first-hand that '41s had a few really oddball front axle-related parts, including a reversed (from '37-'40) taper in the drag link hole in spindle, the drag link itself (I actually believe there were two different '41 drag links), and the '41-only wishbone assembly which is about 4" longer (from axle to the ball) than a '37-'40. Below, I show four distinct pitman arms from left to right. The first is '35-36. The second is a 78A- which is a '37-'40. The third is a 21A- which is '42-'48, and the one on right is a 11A- which is '41, and also the service replacement for 78A- arms. As can be seen, the direction of taper varies between arms, although ANY arm will fit the splines on your steering box. Finding one with the correct taper direction should not be difficult. But, I think the black 78A- will suit your needs the best because of the bends in that arm. DD

[flatheadfan]

Kevin-

This subject comes up frequently. I have gone though this several times with '35 and '36 steering and hydraulic conversions. A few years back I wrote an article that appeared in several Ford Regional newsletters about this problem. I understand it is available through Google or send me a PM and I will dig out a copy. The bottom line, this shouldn't be a "problem."

First, there are three basic steering arms that can be used with '37-'48 steering gears. Namely. 48-3590. 78A-3590 and 11A-3590. Due to the taper they can go on only one way. Use your original "48" arm. Due to the lower sitting of the '37-'48 steering gear in the '35-'36 chassis, the other two arms have configurations that will either hit your front wishbone or the engine oil pan. Second, the drag link you use is determined by the year of the right spindle. 'For '35-'48 spindles EXCEPT '41 you can use your present rod but you will have limited adjustment as a result of the gear placement. A '37 link 78-3283 is somewhat shorter (1.35") and gives you more adjustment. If you are using a '41 spindle you are stuck for a 11A-3283.

I presently have a '35 with a '41 spindle and have a '41 rod. No problems steering or in adjustment. My '36 uses an original tie rod with '37-'40 spindles. No problem. Frankly. I see no reason why anyone should get involved with reaming, welding, or drilling . You should be able to just assemble and be done.

Hope this helps.

Tom

[V8COOPMAN]

Really GOOD write-up above, Tom. You obviously understand this oddball 1941 stuff. DD

[skidmarks]

Originally Posted by flatheadfan

Kevin-

This subject comes up frequently. I have gone though this several times with '35 and '36 steering and hydraulic conversions. A few years back I wrote an article that appeared in several Ford Regional newsletters about this problem. I understand it is available through Google or send me a PM and I will dig out a copy. The bottom line, this shouldn't be a "problem."

First, there are three basic steering arms that can be used with '37-'48 steering gears. Namely. 48-3590. 78A-3590 and 11A-3590. Due to the taper they can go on only one way. Use your original "48" arm. Due to the lower sitting of the '37-'48 steering gear in the '35-'36 chassis, the other two arms have configurations that will either hit your front wishbone or the engine oil pan. Second, the drag link you use is determined by the year of the right spindle. 'For '35-'48 spindles EXCEPT '41 you can use your present rod but you will have limited adjustment as a result of the gear placement. A '37 link 78-3283 is somewhat shorter (1.35") and gives you more adjustment. If you are using a '41 spindle you are stuck for a 11A-3283.

I presently have a '35 with a '41 spindle and have a '41 rod. No problems steering or in adjustment. My '36 uses an original tie rod with '37-'40 spindles. No problem. Frankly. I see no reason why anyone should get involved with reaming, welding, or drilling . You should be able to just assemble and be done.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Sometimes you make due with what you got or take what you have and make it work depending on your tools and capabilities

[Ball and Chain]

Originally Posted by flatheadfan

Kevin-

This subject comes up frequently. I have gone though this several times with '35 and '36 steering and hydraulic conversions. A few years back I wrote an article that appeared in several Ford Regional newsletters about this problem. I understand it is available through Google or send me a PM and I will dig out a copy. The bottom line, this shouldn't be a "problem."

First, there are three basic steering arms that can be used with '37-'48 steering gears. Namely. 48-3590. 78A-3590 and 11A-3590. Due to the taper they can go on only one way. Use your original "48" arm. Due to the lower sitting of the '37-'48 steering gear in the '35-'36 chassis, the other two arms have configurations that will either hit your front wishbone or the engine oil pan. Second, the drag link you use is determined by the year of the right spindle. 'For '35-'48 spindles EXCEPT '41 you can use your present rod but you will have limited adjustment as a result of the gear placement. A '37 link 78-3283 is somewhat shorter (1.35") and gives you more adjustment. If you are using a '41 spindle you are stuck for a 11A-3283.

I presently have a '35 with a '41 spindle and have a '41 rod. No problems steering or in adjustment. My '36 uses an original tie rod with '37-'40 spindles. No problem. Frankly. I see no reason why anyone should get involved with reaming, welding, or drilling . You should be able to just assemble and be done.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Thanks for help Tom,
This clears up most of my questions.
I'm in the garage, this is what I have. I have a 39 box with a 42-48 pitman arm.
I have 42-48 spindles. I just ordered a 41 drag link as I do not have one. This should mount correctly on top of my spindle and be the right length. Am I going to need an earlier 78- pitman arm to make this all jive as the 42-48 pitman arm takes the tie rid on the front side or does it matter??

Thanks Kevin