Where to start?

[arnhemmer]

Don't overlook the brakes.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

My opinions/advice - Others will chime in if there is disagreement or added info.


Brakes are an action item once it is running. Take it easy the 1st time and test them for pulling, squealing, etc.. The Henry way is the back wheels lock up before the front wheels lock up under hard braking. Usually tested on gravel. Since brakes are purely mechanical, not even a brake cylinder, braking is not as good as more modern cars. But if they are in good shape, adjusted properly, they will stop the car quickly.


Another item is checking seals and checking/greasing/lubing wheel bearings. Again can be done after a test drive. At the same time adjustment and correction of brake issues can be performed.


Generators are lubed via very small holes, one on each end of the generator. Typically there is an extremely small cover that is moved aside for each oil point, and a couple drops of fresh motor oil added. Usually added at oil changes.


If an original style water pump - one of the 2 grease fittings takes only a small partial pump of grease, more than that, and also too frequent greasing, can cause grease to migrate into the coolant and over time clog your radiator. Senior moment here - can not remember which grease fitting causes the coolant issue. If coolant leaks/drips via the exposed pump shaft, the packing nut can be tightened down until the leak stops.


If running tap or distilled water coolant (distilled water much preferred over tap) , add rust inhibitor like Napa 1300 rust inhibitor in the coolant. There is debate, my preference is once all is running well, not overheating/loosing coolant/leaking - switch to 50/50 green antifreeze for the best rust prevention. The upside of antifreeze is superior corrosion protection. The down side of antifreeze is there is a slight loss of cooling. I've measured antifreeze running warmer by 5-10 degrees using a coolant gauge in the upper coolant hose neck. And it can ruin paint if there is leakage/overheating.


Distributor lube - Every oil change clean the distributor cam and points arm, apply a small amount of cam lube. Prevents wear on the points arm. At the base of the distributor on the drivers side, on the left of the distributor there is a tube with a spring loaded cap. Pull the cap to the left and add motor oil and completely fill the tube. Completely filling allows the oil to migrate up to the distributor shaft upper bushing.


If you have not driven an A before, shifting is a slow methodical process. The transmission is not synchronized. Keep your upshift point RPMs as low as possible. Push in the clutch, wait for a couple of seconds, then shift slowly/gently to neutral and then into the desired gear. Down shifting is best accomplished by double clutching, a real art/talent if not familiar with this process. Best to have some one teach you.

[Blazer006]

Other than checking them unloading the car originally I have not looked at the brakes...They do feel fine but when the time comes I'll check them out along with the wheel bearings...I do know after crawling around under it last night I did notice there is no emergency brake linkage and none in my box's of stuff with the car so thats on the to do list...One thing that would help a lot is to be able to see another complete car...lol...right now its a road trip with out a map..lol

[Blazer006]

Well my good luck turned to bad today while tinkering...I started looking at the wiring from the diagrams I have and everything looks good...so for the first time I put on a battery turned over the engine all good to that point... So I thought I would check for spark doing the u tube test I saw...my only problem was the light stays on both sides of the coil when the key is on....tracing everything out up to the key switch..sitting in the car pulling the instrument panel I felt something hit my knee..Yep fuel leak right above my right knee...from looking at it there I can see a previous repair has been made and leaking then primed...I disconnected the battery will have to worry with ignition later...drained the fuel and came in the house...lol...some days are diamonds others just gold...Looking around online not seeing many options for a replacement fuel tank...Regardless I still have to pull this one so on to learning that...lol any tips you guy's have here would be great...

[john in illinois]

If you need any original used parts such as a gas tank or new parts Berts Model A has a huge inventory of used parts. If you call Steve he will answer questions and is very helpful.

https://modelastore.com/

John

[arnhemmer]

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When you repair or replace the gas tank, install the steering column brace that mounts onto the dash rail. I did this on my 1930 Tudor when I bought it. Had no problems with the original set up but this will take the strain off the tank, since most of us use the steering wheel to get into the car.

[Blazer006]

Thanks John I'll probably give him a call in the morning...Since this tank has been previously lined I'm not sure what to do with it and the bottom left side looks pretty beat up...passenger side look perfect...

Arnhemmer someone previous to me has already made that swap and cut the old one off the tank....but is there a bushing that goes in there to take the slop out at the top? Just something else I noticed today...Parts list is growing...lol...got a love or leave it alone...

[woofa.express]

I see plenty of good advise in this thread, not only for Blazer but any person undertaking a restoration project. I wish I had joined a club prior to my first restoration which cost x2 the market value of the motorcar. I like them to drive not to mess with and would have purchased a fully restored vehicle with guidance from a club.

[arnhemmer]

I did not remove the part of the clamp that is mounted on the tank since the new bracket dropped the column enough to create a sixteenth of an inch clearance between it and the top part of the clamp. Left it on and saved the bottom part with the bolts just in case the next owner wants to go back to the stock set up. I don't recall needing washers or spacers to mount the brace to the dash rail. You can make a rubber spacer to insulate the bracket from the column. I thing the original has that on the car.

[dennis lumbert]

Originally Posted by Blazer006

Other than checking them unloading the car originally I have not looked at the brakes...They do feel fine but when the time comes I'll check them out along with the wheel bearings...I do know after crawling around under it last night I did notice there is no emergency brake linkage and none in my box's of stuff with the car so thats on the to do list...One thing that would help a lot is to be able to see another complete car...lol...right now its a road trip with out a map..lol

I have a 30 Tudor that I have restored my self and had on the road since 16.Im 45 miles south of Little Rock if that would help. Dennis

[Blazer006]

I agree Woffa Express I have gotten lots of good pointers and I appreciate it greatly ....I also agree you can end up with a pile of money and headache in one these certainly more than they are worth. But with the history of my family in this car it deserves to be finished and I'm sure I'll be upside down in the end dollar wise. I also have another reason for taking this on.... my son...He's 14 and to tell you the truth I was disappointed today about the tank but when he got home I told about it and he's more upset than I am...lol..In the end no matter the dollar amount its a win win for me.....Asking for knowledge is a good thing....and sharing it is the best of things..

Arnhemmer mine needs something in there I have a good 1/8 th of a inch all the way around I was thinking felt to take some that slop out and for silencing it. I have not looked yet but surely there is a gasket of some kind for that...lol

[Blazer006]

Nice to meet you Dennis I would love to take a look...I work in Little Rock quite a bit now so that's not a bad drive at all....I'll even buy lunch..Lol

[30 Closed Cab PU]

While waiting to get the tank fixed, you can hang a small tank with a gas line on the bottom from the Radiator Support Rods.

[Blazer006]

Yep I thought about that and I have one around here somewhere....But I need to sort out this wiring a little better...I have seen 3 different wiring diagrams so far so I'm a little confused..I've watched all of Jackson's utube videos on trouble shooting the ignition and they have been extremely helpful. At one point he talks about it going to the ground side of the coil? My coil say's "DIST" on one side and nothing on the other so I'm not sure which is which there...At the terminal block has me a little baffled too how its all tied together there....So my thought was to wait my book to get here and go again at it.. If you recall when I was tracing out the circuit when I found my tank leak..and the reason I was tracing it out was that I was hot on both sides of the coil with key on....

[Jacksonlll]

If the points are open, both sides should be hot. Distributor side goes to the ignition switch on it’s way to the distributor.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Why is the switch between the coil and the distributor, instead of the switch being between the battery and the coil?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Why is the switch between the coil and the distributor, instead of the switch being between the battery and the coil?

This made it harder to steal the car.
If you just switch the hot wire, then someone could jump the starter terminal to the coil and drive away.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Impressive, another case of things on the A being simple but well thought out. Thanks.

[Blazer006]

Thanks Jackson I should have been a little more clear your videos have been great....I do understand that with points open both sides should be Hot....but closed one should not....With my points closed both sides are still hot...that's what got me tracing stuff down....I got to the ignition switch and thru it and stopped due to the fuel leak in the cab.

Now to the wiring after looking at it again tonight drawing it out on paper to post here...According the wiring diagram I'm looking at the wiring is correct after close inspection...And just so you know it is all new wiring color correct cloth covered....Well I say new it was new in 2001 according to the receipt I found in my box's of stuff but never been out of the garage that I know of....Now this is its path...I'm starting at the starter...
Solid yellow from starter to terminal box passenger side lug from that lug it solid yellow up to the Amp meter.
Yellow/black from other side of amp meter back to the terminal box lug drivers side from that lug Yellow/Black to the generator.
From coil driver's side of the coil black wire from lug to terminal box lug drivers side
From coil passenger side labeled DIST Red wire up to Ignition switch from switch to distributor vie armored cable.
Now Not sure if that's right as I'm really confused...but that's how its wired...lol...and that's the way I got it...

[daveymc29]

Judging Standards and Les Andrew's book(S) should be a real help.I agree with changing all fluids and along that line, drop the pan and make sure the screen on the oil pump is clean, remove the dipper tray from the pan. Put pan in a large garbage bag and drop it from wast high onto a grassy spot, tray down and it should pop out. it may be a mess inside the bag but better at least better than on the kitchen floor. Read, read read. and get a member of your local club to drop by also if you can.