Spark and Throttle rods-30 CCPU

[Baypac]

Neither of these rods make contact with the friction plate and won't stay in place. Is there a way to tighten them other than removing the steering column? Do they bend or can you bend the plate?

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good Morning Baypac...I generally just tap on the friction plate and bend it up just slightly until there is a slight drag and then the spark and throttle rods are happy...Ernie in Arizona

[Baypac]

Originally Posted by Ernie Vitucci

Good Morning Baypac...I generally just tap on the friction plate and bend it up just slightly until there is a slight drag and then the spark and throttle rods are happy...Ernie in Arizona

Thanks Ernie,

I was wondering about that and also wondering if there is any adjustment in the length of the steering column by adjusting the clamp.

Jack

[Farrell In Vancouver]

How about shimming the retaining springs at the bottom of the column?

[Baypac]

Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver

How about shimming the retaining springs at the bottom of the column?

I am away from the car now, but do you know anyone who has done it?

[Al 29Tudor]

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Originally Posted by Baypac

Neither of these rods make contact with the friction plate and won't stay in place. Is there a way to tighten them other than removing the steering column? Do they bend or can you bend the plate?

You probably have a two tooth steering column and that bushing at top of the column has to be set a good 1/8 of an inch below the friction plate.
You can also put a small chamfer at each of the rod holes that will let the rods go a little lower.

[Bill Lee/Virginia]

I always file the indentions deeper (with a small three corner file) on the friction plates prior to tapping them up towards the spark and throttle rods. Works for me.


Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula

[Baypac]

Originally Posted by Al 29Tudor

You probably have a two tooth steering column and that bushing at top of the column has to be set a good 1/8 of an inch below the friction plate.
You can also put a small chamfer at each of the rod holes that will let the rods go a little lower.

Thanks, Al. As I look at the configuration of the steering column, it did not make sense that they would be so far from the friction plate. I think the previous owner made changes to the column when they installed turning signals.

[100IH]

The outer sleeve of the steering column and the levers is the total of the equation. Take it to the moon and and it wont affect the interaction of how the notches feel. #1 bending the lower plate is usually required. #2 improving the grooves in the plate is good #3 levers that are worn flat on the underside will bridge several groves and provide no detent feel.

[Jw]

countersink the holes that the rods go through which will allow the rods to contact the column flange!

[Baypac]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Your comments have been a great help. I am on the road now, but will be back to the truck on Sunday. This truck has an August '30 serial number, and some parts of the rebuild were high quality and some were short cuts.

Snyders shows two different bushings for 1930.One through June without the Chamfer and one for June through the end of production. I suspect they may have used an early '30 bushing without the chamfer. That would explain the 1/16 inch space between the rod and the friction plate. I will know more when I pull it apart. It is always interesting to work on someone else's rebuild. It is difficult to know what they did.

[Ernie Vitucci]

With a Model A, you could be working with changes made by a number of prior owners, some more skillful than others, some with more money to spend than others. My moto is to do no harm and leave the car in better shape than I received it in...Ernie in Arizona