Rebuilding Fuel Valve Question

[Steve_KS]

I am rebuilding my fuel shutoff valve, it's not an original piece but a reproduction. I have the cone and body lapped together well enough I think but my question is on assembly. The rebuild kit has a packing nut, I didn't see one in the valve I disassembled.



Mine was the cone (brass piece with the 2 holes) then an O ring, washer, spring, washer, compression nut, then the handle, washer, and nut. I have a feeling the O ring and spring replaced the packing?



Just want to verify before I test it with gas in the tank.


Thanks

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Check out this video on rebuilding the valve. Slow, but good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRIc2GDj_yQ

[Steve_KS]

Thanks I've seen that one it's decent. I bought a new valve from Snyders. It's the same as the one on my car with the O ring and spring, no packing. It leaks just like the one I already had, at about the same rate too. The O ring does it's job it doesn't leak in the cab just lets fuel continue to leak to the carburetor.


That's $30 that would have been better spend lighting a cigar.


I've tried toothpaste, lapping compound, and E-Z Turn but it still leaks fuel into the carburetor too. I need to find a more modern fuel shutoff to place between this shutoff and the sediment bowl.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Steve, how about trying one of these? They work well, easy to install, will hold up to gas and a lot less than $30. You can get them online or even Home Depot, Menards, etc.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Another thing, don't use teflon tape on the threads. That stuff has a history of shredding into little strips and get carried into jets in the carb. A little pipe dope seals and lubes the threads so it can easily be undone if you need to replace it in the future.

[Hoovercw]

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I have this same problem and was told by several that the reproductions are a crap shoot as to if you get a working one or not. If it does leak, you will never be able to get it to stop. I have my original to rebuild, but this is a daily driver and I think I may go with Cool Hand Lurker's solution if the modern ball valve.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Have the same exact issue, see the below thread, gave up on repop, waiting to get an old original I was able to locate.


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250572

[Steve_KS]

I like the modern shutoff inline idea. Think I'll go look for one after work.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Probably best choice for the least fuss. Suggest you write down what you got, where you got it, in case 5 years from now it goes bad.


My A is a runner but still try to keep things somewhat original looking with original style or at least period correct. So my choice is to find an old one, may have to rebuild it.


Whatever works for you, and you satisfied is what is important.