overheating

[silversink]

I have good flow in the radiator, infrared readings were 195 on the outlet , 210 on the inlet and 135- 155 on the radiator face. the eng block was at 195 to 210 on the cylinders, new cap and gasket and a rebuilt eng. I'm stumped.

[Mitch//pa]

What are your exact symptoms

[silversink]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

What are your exact symptoms

Boiling over and loosing enough water to cause the radiator to belch and boil. I thought it might be the generator loosening up and not turn the fan but after putting a wedge between the block and the Generator it still does it's thing.

[Mitch//pa]

dont fill the level over the baffle
make sure you have good flow pumping from water pump
do a combustion gas test
ck the temps at different areas of the core looking for cooler spots
ck timing
if you have a stat ck that or remove it and try it.
even if your radiator seems to be even on temps across the core it can still be restricted
ill think of more soon

[WestCoast]

check radiator cores at the top and bottom, bottom should be at least 30 degrees cooler than the top, you don't know if you have good flow in the radiator cores until you can look at them, that means removing the top tank, two of the main reasons for engine over heating is plugged radiator cores and slow timing

[1crosscut]

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Water boils at 212 degrees. Your highest reading in your post says 210 degrees.
Are you sure it is actually boiling over?
Or is it just filled too full and it is puking out water trying to find the level it is most comfortable with?
Have you actually stuck a thermometer in the water to check the temperature?

[silversink]

I have not checked the temp of the water. each time it boiled over I had to add about a gallon of water and when removing the cap steam shooting out was close to burning the hands. a little I have a hunch it's the timing is retarded as I have to run the lever all the way down or else it is real sluggish. As you can tell this my first experience with an A-----lots of experience with later V8s(small block stuff)
I'm also pulling the radiator to get it gone thru much money in the eng. to take a chance

[SteveB31]

15 degrees of temp drop from top to bottom is not enough. Problem is your radiator is not dissapating enough heat- plain and simple. You should have 30-40 degrees of temp loss from the top to the bottom of the core.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by SteveB31

15 degrees of temp drop from top to bottom is not enough. Problem is your radiator is not dissapating enough heat- plain and simple. You should have 30-40 degrees of temp loss from the top to the bottom of the core.

Thats what I remember too about radiators. Ive also heard just because a radiator flows good it still wont cool correctly. The thin fins can become desoldered/get loose from the tubes so there's no heat transfer. Also if its been repainted 100 times the paint is acting like a blanket and not allowing it to dissipate heat out.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by silversink

a little I have a hunch it's the timing is retarded as I have to run the lever all the way down or else it is real sluggish.

Re-check the timing. An engine that is running retarded will run hot.

Also, I agree with you having the radiator checked out. I feel this is just part of an engine rebuild.

My opinion,

Chris W.

[Dollar Bill]

Steve gave you good info, the majority of Model A overheating problems stem from a clogged radiator. It appears you are on the right track by having it cleaned.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

Re-check the timing. An engine that is running retarded will run hot.

Also, I agree with you having the radiator checked out. I feel this is just part of an engine rebuild.

My opinion,

Chris W.

yeaman