34’ King Seeley Fuel Gauge - Troubleshooting

[dbtenner]

It seems as if my fuel gauge isn’t calibrating correctly. I’ve taken it out of the dash and used my finger to continuously pressurize the inlet and it goes up and stays steady when I hold my finger over the port.

I’ve reinstalled it and blown out all the air line back to the tank (reading in Empty which is fine) but when I blow the fuel line back to the tank it doesn’t stay at a constant level. It just goes up higher the more pumps I do.

I don’t think this gauge has a calibrating wire in it. Is that my problem?


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[supereal]

The King-Seely sender was a fine part of the gas gauge sender for many years, but eventually caused the kind of problems you have posted. There is no adjustment, and the available units are a simple variable resistor operated by the float arm. If the float arm is correctly bent, and the float itself isn't damaged, it is less accurate than the K/S, but will give you an approximation of the fuel level so you don't run out.

[Brian]

Set the fluid level on the empty mark in the gauge. Hook up the air line and drive the car. The fluid should automatically rise and record the tank level after a few miles of driving. The fuel sloshing around in the tank will create pressure within the airline which causes the level in gauge to rise accordingly. If you blow the fuel line back to the tank, you're artificially creating pressure in the airline, so obviously, the liquid will keep on rising. Don't blow through the fuel line back into tank!

[FlatheadTed]

As Brian said Red liquid level at the bottom .But as well as driving the car you can disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and blow back with your mouth that does the same thing as driving, (agitates the gas air mix) , that's after drying the 1/8 air line with a tyre pump ,You may need to add the calibration wires ,you can use 1/16 welding rod .The air line must be air tight and after blowing back the level should settle and stay there ,according to there instructions the tank cannot be more that 3 /4ths full of gas while setting it . From Automotive service, Published Milwaukee1938 ,

[34billct]

Despite all the nay stayers of the hydro static fuel gauge my system has worked well for ten years now. the small air line must be air tight. the ferules must be soldered on well as they do not self crimp.

[Karl]

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Originally Posted by 34billct

Despite all the nay stayers of the hydro static fuel gauge my system has worked well for ten years now. the small air line must be air tight. the ferules must be soldered on well as they do not self crimp.

I agree if set up correctly will be reliable and accurate.
However every joint has to be completely airtight. I had calibration problems initially I could never get it above 3/4 full . Finally worked out that the previous owner or someone before them had placed 5 calibration rods in the gauge. Which I made worse by adding more! It couldn't hold enough fluid to read full . Removing all but one of the rods and it is fine. The major issue is getting red fluid that doesn't discolor -Karl

[FlatheadTed]

I agree the KS gauge is a great idea ,American innovation at its best ,I can look through the rear window while I am pumping gas and watch it go up ,I haven't had any discolour ation issues ,not sure why, I use Macs Red ,could it be how it was cleaned ,

[Karl]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

I agree the KS gauge is a great idea ,American innovation at its best ,I can look through the rear window while I am pumping gas and watch it go up ,I haven't had any discolour ation issues ,not sure why, I use Macs Red ,could it be how it was cleaned ,

May be Ted - I also think it depends on how much sun exposure the gauge gets ie car use . Mine gets plenty and I suspect would last longer if my car was in the garage instead of being my almost daily driver - I solved the problem by picking up some NOS fluid .-Karl

[FlatheadTed]

Yes Karl I think youv got something there ,I may have topped mine up but its at least been in there 15 years ,Ted

[dbtenner]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

As Brian said Red liquid level at the bottom .But as well as driving the car you can disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and blow back with your mouth that does the same thing as driving, (agitates the gas air mix) , that's after drying the 1/8 air line with a tyre pump ,You may need to add the calibration wires ,you can use 1/16 welding rod .The air line must be air tight and after blowing back the level should settle and stay there ,according to there instructions the tank cannot be more that 3 /4ths full of gas while setting it . From Automotive service, Published Milwaukee1938 ,

Ok so if I use 1/16” welding rod, how long should I cut to length?


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[glennpm]

There is no precise length or number of rods that you can accurately determine ahead of time. During original manufacturing they probably applied a set pressure in a fixture that allowed added rod volume while insuring that the red fluid would go from 0 to F.


The calibration rod or rods decrease the volume of red fluid to take into account variances in the reservoir, capillary tube length in and perhaps the insertion into the bottom of the glass tube. As more rod is added the "0" point rises so enough rod volume has to be added to make sure that the maximum pressure head from the tank unit can raise the fluid to the F mark. Added rod requires removing fluid so that "0" is met with the tank line disconnected.



I would start with a length of about 2-1/16" to 2-1/8" long. This length should not interfere with the ferrule from the line to the gas tank. This length will allow you to pull a rod out with tweezers without having to dump the fluid to get the rods out during your trial and error attempts. If after you've added two rods or so and you are very close, you may have to dump a short rod into the reservoir since as the red fluid gets closer to the full mark, there is less wetted fluid in the bottom of the supply reservoir.


To find the proper number of rods, you'll have to iterate, i.e. add a rod, remove a little fluid so you're at 0 when the gauge is disconnected and then close it up and see if it transits the gauge range from 0 to F.


I'm still trying to sort my own out, BTW. No one that I can find that has a working gauge, has said how many rods they have or what length.



I wrote some more about these gauges in this thread, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263064


Glenn

[Karl]

Originally Posted by glennpm

.................................................. ...........................

I'm still trying to sort my own out, BTW. No one that I can find that has a working gauge, has said how many rods they have or what length.



I wrote some more about these gauges in this thread, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263064


Glenn

1 rod and from memory probably about 1 1/2 inches long .However I suspect is gauge dependent and it is essentially trial and error-Karl

[Terry,OH]

If I understand what you did is have the system together disconnect the fuel line, under the hood, and blow air back to the tank?? If so the gauge should go up. you forced air into the fuel line and tank to the small air line and gauge making the gauge read higher. If so when you stop blowing air into the fuel line the gauge should slowly return.
The calibration rod is displacing some of the fluid in the tank making the level of fluid in the tank increase. The higher the fluid level in the tank the higher the red fluid level in the glass. The calibration rod is not needed and the gauge should read correctly if the fluid level is adjusted so the gauge reads empty with no fuel in the tank. If you have a calibration rod in the tank don't remove it and don't add more rods.
I fail to see any problem and suggest you put the system together make all the fittings tight and drive the car to see where the fuel gauge reads.

[glennpm]

Thanks guys and Karl for the rod info! Karl, do you recall if it was a 1/16" diameter rod or what?


Thanks!

[deuce lover]

After doing many, they have 1/16 & 1/8 " rods. Many had 2 of the 1/16" rods.

[glennpm]

Thank you!

[Karl]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Thanks guys and Karl for the rod info! Karl, do you recall if it was a 1/16" diameter rod or what?


Thanks!

1/16 brazing rod

Karl