Hand riveting tool ?

[Conaway2]

Is there a hand tool that will flare the open end of a conventional rivet - like for brake lining ? I need to install a leather hood corner without removing the hood.....

Thanks - Jim

[jw hash]

there is all kinds of rivet tools on Ebay. look it up under tonka toys rivets. I have a few of them. the C clamp one work pretty good for the hood corners if the hood is is already installedon.

[rotorwrench]

Brake rivets come in different sizes and they are tubular type rivets. Sets are available for the different sizes of tubular rivets. The tail of the rivet also has to have the correct protrusion for it to be set correctly. Big Flats Rivet is a good place to check for riveting products. The tools generally are used with a hammer or a hand screw and they have a frame to hold the set that must be set on a solid surface to do the work.

These are examples but not the best I've seen. https://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Brake-R.../dp/B01LT7AUWA

[mike657894]

I was just thinking about this. One might take a c clamp knock off the anvil on the screw and sharpen the ball to a point and it might make a simple riveter. I have a few other tools I want but cant find or when I do they are too expensive to justify the cost. I have a pair of metal working folding pliers. But want to weld some 1/4 to some channel locks to make folders without a straight handle. The channel locks do this now but without the pro look of the folders.

[1931 flamingo]

I used tiny machine screws, painted the heads black, cut off excess length of the screw. Couldn't tell the difference unless you got REAL close.
Paul in CT

[Keith True]

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A good pair of Vise Grips and a ball bearing will do it too.Get a couple of extra rivets and practice first.Because I do hydraulic work I have a bunch of assorted balls around for the detents in the valves.I think the ones in the neck of a bicycle fit those corner rivets.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by mike657894

I was just thinking about this. One might take a c clamp knock off the anvil on the screw and sharpen the ball to a point and it might make a simple riveter. I have a few other tools I want but cant find or when I do they are too expensive to justify the cost. I have a pair of metal working folding pliers. But want to weld some 1/4 to some channel locks to make folders without a straight handle. The channel locks do this now but without the pro look of the folders.

Logically that makes great sense however the swivel generally tightens against the anvil when the screw is about ¼-turn from bottoming out. Remove the swivel and re-shape the end and you will likely find you are about a ¼ inch shy of compressing the rivet.


There is a way around this however it will take a lathe that you can cut Acme threads on. Remove the swivel on the end of the threaded screw and remove it from the frame. Take a piece of long bar-stock and bore a 0.250" hole thru the center. Next, cut Acme threads on the exterior of the bar stock that will screw into the framework of the clamp. Once the newly threaded rod is installed into the clamp, it becomes the centering pilot for a long drill bit to bore a hole thru the anvil face of the clamp body. This is required so the hole will be in perfect alignment of the screw. Next, thread the anvil area of the clamp body to insert a long set screw. Contour the end of the set screw to match the shape of the rivet head. Sharpen the end of the original clamp screw where it will mushroom and set the rivet. And there you have it, ...you can modify a clamp yourself, -or just order one that someone else has spent the time to fixture it up.

[rotorwrench]

When properly set, the tail outer edge is rolled to near 180 degrees back around. A bearing will just spread it out with only a 90 degree edge. Screws might function but they won't give much clearance when the lining wears down plus they don't expand like a rivet does. They have to fit tight in the hole to keep from working and shearing the screw or damaging the lining. Brake linings are subjected to a lot of shear forces.

[Charlie Stephens]

Try http://www.bigflatsrivet.com

Charlie Stephens

[Keith True]

I wouldn't get too worried about strength on your hood corners.I have squashed hundreds of rivets on dragline and cable tool well drilling rigs with the bands and faces still in the machine.A couple of days hand squeezing rivets into place beat a week of dismantling the winches and brake bands in those old machines.The machines owners were quite aware of how it should be done,they had done it before over the years.They showed me how to do it,once I got the knack of it I could move right along.Toward the end of the day I would have to use three squeezes of the Vice Grips to seat them.My hands would be too sore to set them in two squeezes after 6 or 7 hours.If you're around anybody that farms you can borrow a rivet set for sickle bar sections.You won't even need a wrench for those,they are meant for solid rivets and just tightening the screw with your fingers will set the hollow rivets.

[mike657894]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Logically that makes great sense however the swivel generally tightens against the anvil when the screw is about ¼-turn from bottoming out. Remove the swivel and re-shape the end and you will likely find you are about a ¼ inch shy of compressing the rivet.


There is a way around this however it will take a lathe that you can cut Acme threads on. Remove the swivel on the end of the threaded screw and remove it from the frame. Take a piece of long bar-stock and bore a 0.250" hole thru the center. Next, cut Acme threads on the exterior of the bar stock that will screw into the framework of the clamp. Once the newly threaded rod is installed into the clamp, it becomes the centering pilot for a long drill bit to bore a hole thru the anvil face of the clamp body. This is required so the hole will be in perfect alignment of the screw. Next, thread the anvil area of the clamp body to insert a long set screw. Contour the end of the set screw to match the shape of the rivet head. Sharpen the end of the original clamp screw where it will mushroom and set the rivet. And there you have it, ...you can modify a clamp yourself, -or just order one that someone else has spent the time to fixture it up.

or just weld a piece of steel on the other side of the clamp

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by mike657894

or just weld a piece of steel on the other side of the clamp

Two issues I see with that is, 1) most of those clamps that you will find to use are going to be cast (-and most with junk alloy at that), -so welding will be extremely difficult at best, ...2) from experience I can tell you that the anvil placement for that head is going to be sensitive to placement. You can miss the centerline by 0.015" or more and the rivet will not upset correctly. Being able to fixture and weld it holding a less than 0.010" tolerance is going to be next to impossible for most people. Can someone do it your way, ...sure but most will tell you for it to be a successful tool, my method above is likely the easier way.

[Marvin/TN]

Aircraft supplier should have a rivet squeezer, have used one on solid rivets, also check with Mac's they have a rivet setter in their catalogue. It is a squeeze type

[Conaway2]

Thanks for all the responses ! I’ve gotten some good ideas....

[Fhane]

Aircraftspruce.com has the tool you need. Search brake rivet

[Tom Wesenberg]

I did hood corners with the hood installed by using the brake rivet tool from Bert's, Bratton's, or Snyder's, and it worked fine.
I use a drop of oil on the rivet tool to make the smoothest rollover.