A Rivetting Paint Problem

[Stretch Cab]

Greetings, I'm working on finishing my grandfather's car project and while it isn't an "A" I thought you might be able to give me some ideas. As you can see the fender that I'm showing as an example of his body work is home made from aluminum with a hand rolled bead. The car has a lot of the beading and many rivets! My dad, grandpa's son in law remembers being very tired of bucking rivets back in the 60's when the car was built.
My question is, when I talk to a painter what type of paint would work best on this body with the multitude of rivets and yards of beading? I'm painting the chassis but will farm out the body.
What I've seen of base coat/clear, you have to color sand to get the mirror finish I would want and I don't see how to get around all those rivets. What would you do?

[sluggo]

I would bc/cc it. If the painter can lay the clear out slick in a clean environment then it would not need to be buffed. That painter is going to be tough to find.

I think the big work would be in prepping and priming it then prepping it for paint. Lots of sanding and attention to detail.

Be prepared to outlay some serious coin.

Is that a Mercer?

[Tim]

I have a different take on this. I would use single stage. I say that because the more material you lay on there the more it'll lose the crispness without color sanding and buffing. A good catalyzed SS paint will give you good coverage and shine without too much build up. SS/CC will be at least three more coats. Cuting and buffing around all those rivets will be a labor of love. Whatever the color pick a sealer that's tinted close to it for coverage.


That's going to be really pretty once finished.


Tim

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tim

I have a different take on this. I would use single stage. I say that because the more material you lay on there the more it'll lose the crispness without color sanding and buffing. A good catalyzed SS paint will give you good coverage and shine without too much build up. SS/CC will be at least three more coats. Cuting and buffing around all those rivets will be a labor of love. Whatever the color pick a sealer that's tinted close to it for coverage.


That's going to be really pretty once finished.


Tim

I concur with Tim totally on this.

[d.j. moordigian]

Show off Grandpa's handy work....don't paint it !! WD-40 and a Scotch Brite pad,
household version....rub in one direction.

[Steve Wastler]

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I want to see some more pictures and a little more on your talented gramps. Was he a body man, just gifted or both. If the body looks as good as the fender, you are a lucky man!!

[LukeDahlinger]

I second the single stage route. I've painted a good number of Model T's and never had a problem with the multitude of rivets on the hood, beads on the fenders etc.

I've used Delfleet Essential, Nason Ful-Thane, PPG Concept, the old Dupont Centari , etc all with great results.

[Jim Huseby]

Watch out for what might be between the rivets and the sheet metal that could leach out and ruin the paint over time. This could be paint remover, oils etc. Aircraft refinishers deal with rivets all the time and you could consult with an aircraft refinisher or supplier or manual. Plan ahead to avoid, if possible, having to do any sanding, other than abrading with a scotch brite pad, initially. Likewise, the advice on single stage is excellent advice. www.olympic-speedsters.com

[Stretch Cab]

I figured the single stage would be the way to go, and thanks to all for your input. I like the looks of base/clear but I'm sure whatever is used will look great. The car has sat unfinished since the 60's and I think it is time to cover up the aluminum skin with all of grandpa's pencil drawings and finish it in his memory. I thought about buffing out the hood and leaving that but not sure I can get the look I want.
The radiator, head lights and steering column are from an early American LaFrance fire truck while the running gear and transmission are early Chevy. The motor is from a stationary Continental water pump. (Little motor under a Big hood!)
My grandfather was an self taught shade tree mechanic and body man. He built houses and in my mind, could do anything he wanted to do. I still wonder why he never finished this car.
At one stage in his life he was a fire chief so to honor him and build on the theme of the car I'm finishing the car as a faux ALF fire chief's car. The body will be fire engine red with the rolled beading painted an equal glossy black with gold leaf striping to finish it off. Black simulated leather diamond tucked upholstery will add to the appearance. I plan to make a windshield and will either fabricate a non working collapsed top or hopefully find one I can buy. My budget is very limited so we will see how long it takes but the journey is the most fun. Again thanks and I'm sure I will have more questions.

[Stretch Cab]

Grandpa also built the model T next to his other car. As a kid I helped him find parts to build the hack just like the one he used to drive between Fort. Pierce and Okeechobee, Fl to pick up laundry.
Grandpa was always different, he rebuilt the T motor using new aluminum pistons. He cut off the connecting rods from the new pistons and had them welded to the original T rods. But then he used all used gaskets because he didn't like new stuff and the car has always leaked oil.

[mot]

since its an aluminum body with rivets
I would go to an airport and see if you can get some tips from an airplane painter
they do beautiful jobs on aluminum airplanes
It would be a start

[Stretch Cab]

Good idea on the airplane painter for sure!

[Logan]

I would sand and buff the middle area and leave the riveted areas alone. Just my take on it. I like base/clear a whole lot better

[Steve Wastler]

Damn, I really like it! Will look fantastic with your paint scheme. Gramps was a cool dude! My gramps had an untouched 1902 Rambler sitting on blocks in the garage for many years, about the time I was born he gave it away. No one in the family is a gear head but me, i arrived to late!! Must put a smile on your face each time you look at it . Keep us posted

[PetesPonies]

Single Stage may be the choice, but lets understand the facts better. Laying a couple coats of base is not the same as a couple coats of SS . There is a significant difference in MILs. Therefore saying that a SS paint job is absolutely less material than a BC/CC is erroneous. It could be and it could not be. Also, thinking t5hat BC/CC definitely needs to be color sanded is no truer than thinking SS paint does not. I just don't want incorrect "facts" going unchallenged.

[Stretch Cab]

I think what I'm picking up here is that I had better choose well my painter! I will need to look at his work and let him see if he want to tackle the job with confidence. An aircraft painter should have the experience with rivets for sure.
My grandfather was a cantankerous old guy but I miss him greatly. I'm sure that he would have had a strong opinion on what paint to use and would be very upset that it couldn't be done like in the "old" days!
Have you ever had a project that just called you to work on it? This is how I feel with this one. Don't know if it is out of respect for my grandfather or wanting to finish it for my grandsons. Maybe just a mid-life crisis! Can't wait to get off work tonight and sand some wood spokes!