Weird 47 vibration solution

[Bolts]

Looks like a bad tooth. R E A L L Y B A D T O O T H !!!!!

[jerry grayson]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Didn't look like that when I put the rear in Dec 2012. Used John Deere Corn Head grease but probably not frequently enough. (Didn't add any until last month because I had to lift the transmission up to get a grease gun on the fitting. Will do something different for that fitting to make it accessible for monthly lube.)

Have removed the transmission too to "refresh" it (see related thread) and will also try to figure out something for my clutch chatter, including checking the pilot bearing.

Thanks.

Not much of a recommendation for John Deere "corn head" grease is it? I have owned and driven V8's since 1951 and have never had a failure of a universal joint. Always used grease gun grease at the service station.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by jerry grayson

Not much of a recommendation for John Deere "corn head" grease is it? I have owned and driven V8's since 1951 and have never had a failure of a universal joint. Always used grease gun grease at the service station.

You may be right. I'm thinking it through. I'm not sure it was the fault of the Corn Head Grease as much as me not adding to it often enough. I thought that once that U-joint cavity was loaded with grease it was good for a long time without adding any. I also had the problem of not being able to get my grease gun on the zerk crammed in that tight space twixt the clam shell and the frame member to add any.

I was quite surprised, however, after taking up the floor, loosening the bolts and the tranny mount, jacking it up enough to get the grease gun on, and pumping a half cartridge of grease in there just a month ago that, when I opened it up yesterday, it was not full of grease as I expected. Talking to Mac VanPelt about it yesterday he said the grease migrated into the torque tube.

So, I've obviously got to add grease to that U-joint space more often. Trying to figure out an easier way to do that. Which kind of grease? Still not sure.

Jerry, how many miles do you go between adding grease to your U-joint?

[Lawrie]

Henry, what I have is a small 1/2 ltr tank on the fire wall,connected by a small hose to the u/joint bell where the grease point used to be,I fill the tank with the same gear oil thats in the box,on long trips I turn the tap and drop the oil in,I don't leave it on all the time as I think the U/joint ball needs grease to survive,so the grease nipple is on for regular servicing.
Lawrie

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Henry, what I have is a small 1/2 ltr tank on the fire wall,connected by a small hose to the u/joint bell where the grease point used to be,I fill the tank with the same gear oil thats in the box,on long trips I turn the tap and drop the oil in,I don't leave it on all the time as I think the U/joint ball needs grease to survive,so the grease nipple is on for regular servicing.
Lawrie

I'm not sure I understand. Are you putting gear oil onto the U-joint cavity?

[rotorwrench]

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All the old service manual lubrication charts list the u-joint service as every 1000 miles with the cylinder oil/soda soap mix. The lube usually does migrate back to the driveshaft bearing & beyond after time. Some of the reproduction u-joints may have needle bearings and they likely won't hold up as good as the old bushing, ring, & spider set up. You may be able to salvage one end of that joint but the other looks toasty along with the spider & ring damages. It's pretty much inevitable that something will wear out eventually. The old cars needed more preventative maintanance that the new ones for sure.

[jerry grayson]

Henry the semi-liquid corn head grease is going past the 4245 grease seal behind the front roller bearing in the torque tube and into the tube. You need to replace this seal to prevent this. If every thing is up to snuff you should not have to lube the u-joint very often. Maybe once every 6 mo.

[PeteVS]

The seal behind the front roller bearing could have been installed backwards, with the lip facing the rear of the car. It should be installed with the lip towards the front. It's my understanding that the inner axle seals and the drive shaft seals should all be installed to allow any pressure in the rear wheel bearings to vent away from the brakes and any pressure in the differential to likewise vent away from the brakes and allow that pressure to vent towards the transmission instead. IMHO