The Ford Barn

Tom Wesenberg · 03-12-2012, 02:25 PM

When you buy the tool to install the seal inside the rear axle tubes, you also need to buy a length of 1/2" pipe to use with the tool. You can get by with 24", but 28" would be ideal.

Don't buy the pipe until you get the tool, then take the tool to the store and install it on the pipe. Then roll the pipe on the edge of a shelf or table to see if the seal driver turns true. Almost all the pipe and fittings now come from China and many of the threads are cut a little crooked. I need to take my tool to the store and find a better pipe, as the one I now have won't drive the seal in flat, or square to the axle shaft.

BTW, I removed an original leather CR seal from a spare axle tube the other day and it was worn to the metal part of the seal. In other words, it's 1/8" larger than the axle. I can't imagine someone running around with an axle bearing so worn that it could wear a seal this bad.

ursus · 03-12-2012, 02:45 PM

You really don't need a pipe for this. I have always used a round wooden dowel with a diameter that is just under that of the seal. Glue on the end of this a 3/8 inch slice of dowel the diameter of the inner seal or, if you have a lathe, simply turn down the end to fit the seal. Mount the seal on this and tap it home with a hammer. This first time I did this with a whittled down piece of 2X2 inch hardwood, crude but effective. The wood has a bit of give to it and is less likely to damage the seal housing than a piece of pipe from Chairman Mao's backyard foundry.

Tom Endy · 03-12-2012, 04:13 PM

I eventually bought three seal insertion tools from Bratton. The first one I put on a 32" length of pipe to drive the seal into the axle housing. The second one I put on a 7" length of pipe to drive the seal into the front end of the torque tube without having to stand on a ladder. The third one I had the outer flange turned down to 1.33", which is the diameter of my Craftsman 1" socket. I put this one on a five foot length of pipe and I use it to drive the seal out of the torque tube from the back end. You can also use a 1" socket, but the tool is handier.

I replace a lot of seals, so the right tool for the right job makes things easier.

Tom Endy

Jerry Parr WI · 03-12-2012, 07:14 PM

Anyone had a problem with repro axle seals? I had several from Snyder that when I went to use them crumbled when touched. I bought them some time ago so current supply may be different.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-12-2012, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Parr WI

Anyone had a problem with repro axle seals? I had several from Snyder that when I went to use them crumbled when touched. I bought them some time ago so current supply may be different.

I never heard of that. Did the seals say where they were made?

Jim Brierley · 03-13-2012, 11:45 AM

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Install those seals so they face outwards, to keep grease from entering the center section when greasing the wheel bearings. Oil getting out into the brakes is not a problem, gravity pretty much takes care of that.

Tom Endy · 03-13-2012, 12:37 PM

I agree with Jim. The seal on the axle shaft and the one inside the drum hub form a barrier so that grease pumped in through the grease fitting on the end of the axle housing is supposed to force the grease to end up in the wheel bearing.

It is a difficult path and in my view not one of Henry's best designs. Many that I have taken apart find the path totally plugged. If you pack the rear wheel bearings before assembly it should be good until the next brake job.

On a number of rear axle assemblies I have taken apart where the seals are still good, I have found the axle shafts to be rusted in the center of the shaft, attesting to the fact that oil from the differential never reached there and grease from the wheel bearing never reached there.

On a number of occasions I have seen where the axle seals have failed years ago and an exuberant owner has pumped grease into the axle housing grease fitting so often that the grease migrated toward the differential and due to the centrifical action of the axle shaft piled up such that there was an inch of grease around the circumference of the shaft for about a foot.

Tom Endy

Tom Wesenberg · 03-14-2012, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Install those seals so they face outwards, to keep grease from entering the center section when greasing the wheel bearings. Oil getting out into the brakes is not a problem, gravity pretty much takes care of that.

This would make the most sense to me, as it would also make slipping the tube over the axle much easier to do without damage to the seal.

However, the original leather CR worn out seal I removed from an old rusty spare axle tube was installed with the lip facing in towards the differential. It was so totally worn out that I'm sure it was the original part.

03-12-2012, 02:25 PM	#1
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip When you buy the tool to install the seal inside the rear axle tubes, you also need to buy a length of 1/2" pipe to use with the tool. You can get by with 24", but 28" would be ideal. Don't buy the pipe until you get the tool, then take the tool to the store and install it on the pipe. Then roll the pipe on the edge of a shelf or table to see if the seal driver turns true. Almost all the pipe and fittings now come from China and many of the threads are cut a little crooked. I need to take my tool to the store and find a better pipe, as the one I now have won't drive the seal in flat, or square to the axle shaft. BTW, I removed an original leather CR seal from a spare axle tube the other day and it was worn to the metal part of the seal. In other words, it's 1/8" larger than the axle. I can't imagine someone running around with an axle bearing so worn that it could wear a seal this bad.

03-12-2012, 02:45 PM	#2
ursus Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,374	Re: Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip You really don't need a pipe for this. I have always used a round wooden dowel with a diameter that is just under that of the seal. Glue on the end of this a 3/8 inch slice of dowel the diameter of the inner seal or, if you have a lathe, simply turn down the end to fit the seal. Mount the seal on this and tap it home with a hammer. This first time I did this with a whittled down piece of 2X2 inch hardwood, crude but effective. The wood has a bit of give to it and is less likely to damage the seal housing than a piece of pipe from Chairman Mao's backyard foundry.

03-12-2012, 04:13 PM	#3
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip I eventually bought three seal insertion tools from Bratton. The first one I put on a 32" length of pipe to drive the seal into the axle housing. The second one I put on a 7" length of pipe to drive the seal into the front end of the torque tube without having to stand on a ladder. The third one I had the outer flange turned down to 1.33", which is the diameter of my Craftsman 1" socket. I put this one on a five foot length of pipe and I use it to drive the seal out of the torque tube from the back end. You can also use a 1" socket, but the tool is handier. I replace a lot of seals, so the right tool for the right job makes things easier. Tom Endy

03-12-2012, 07:14 PM	#4
Jerry Parr WI Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 619	Re: Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip Anyone had a problem with repro axle seals? I had several from Snyder that when I went to use them crumbled when touched. I bought them some time ago so current supply may be different.

03-13-2012, 11:45 AM	#6
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,087	Re: Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Install those seals so they face outwards, to keep grease from entering the center section when greasing the wheel bearings. Oil getting out into the brakes is not a problem, gravity pretty much takes care of that.

03-13-2012, 12:37 PM	#7
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Rear Axle Seal Driver Tip I agree with Jim. The seal on the axle shaft and the one inside the drum hub form a barrier so that grease pumped in through the grease fitting on the end of the axle housing is supposed to force the grease to end up in the wheel bearing. It is a difficult path and in my view not one of Henry's best designs. Many that I have taken apart find the path totally plugged. If you pack the rear wheel bearings before assembly it should be good until the next brake job. On a number of rear axle assemblies I have taken apart where the seals are still good, I have found the axle shafts to be rusted in the center of the shaft, attesting to the fact that oil from the differential never reached there and grease from the wheel bearing never reached there. On a number of occasions I have seen where the axle seals have failed years ago and an exuberant owner has pumped grease into the axle housing grease fitting so often that the grease migrated toward the differential and due to the centrifical action of the axle shaft piled up such that there was an inch of grease around the circumference of the shaft for about a foot. Tom Endy