Adjusting Engine to Frame Strut Rods

[philipswanson]

Does anybody know how to properly tighten the engine to frame strut rods properly? I have an issue with clutch chatter and discovered one of these rods loose at the frame. I want to put the proper tension on it so as to not break engine ears but enough to hold things tight. I am also changing all 4 motor/transmission mounts.

[cas3]

i dont think there is any adjustment as the threads do not go all the way to the shoulder at the rear of the block. there are 3 different lengths of these things, and if you have the correct ones for your car they just bolt up tight. i get an allen head bolt from fastenal and get rid of the square hole things

[Jack E/NJ]

cas3>>> i get an allen head bolt from fastenal and get rid of the square hole things>>>


Oh-oh. There's a special 5/16" square-drive tool you're supposed to use on these square-hole things. And if you don't have one, I think you're expected to make your own tool from the end of a 3/8" bolt using a file. Or be forever doomed to live with the thought of those incorrect hex-hole things lurking under the floor boards. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[Talkwrench]

Phil, don't be surprised if that doesn't solve your problem. Go luck I hope it works , let us know.

[cas3]

jack, one night i made a tool with my lathe and mill that was so beautiful, would last a lifetime, and i could have bragging rights every time i loaned it out. it didnt last one bolt. now, this was trying to remove one that had not been moved in decades, and i heated the nut with O/A torch because i wanted to reuse the original bolt. i should have hardened it, but soon it was wrecked and i cut the bolt off with the torch and proceeded on with new allen head bolts like any sane human would !

[Tinker]

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I used a window crank from a 1922 home that received new windows (about 5" long in a z shape, square end). It fit the square hole amazing well. Through it in the tool box. Never know what will fit.


You could probably take a allen/hex wrench 3 sizes too big and grind down the end to fit. Tool steel to start with. 1/2 socket wrench is too small. Socket wrench will work in differential drains, but it is a bit undersized as well.

[deuce_roadster]

The later versions of those bolts have a hex head instead of the square hole.

[oldandtired]

I took a 3/8 inch ratchet extension and ground down the socket end to the correct size to fit into the square. It took less than a minute, was inexpensive, durable, and allowed the use of a ratchet when removing the OEM bolt.

[totto]

I did the same as stated by "oldandtired" and worked very well.

[Jack E/NJ]

Interesting thread on 5/16 drive ratchets. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/c...oolt&th=175662


Jack E/NJ

[19Fordy]

Phillip: I tighten the anti chatter rod nuts enough to take out the play.
Also use BLUE Locktite.
Then double nut them if possible. DO NOT use lock washers.
There is no specific torque as far as I know.

[Kerk]

i Have used square KEY stock. Works for me. kerk

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Phillip: I tighten the anti chatter rod nuts enough to take out the play.
Also use BLUE Locktite.
Then double nut them if possible. DO NOT use lock washers.
There is no specific torque as far as I know.

The ends that loosened up were not the forward adjustable ends but the rear frame attachments. The front ones are hex, not square, and seem plenty tight. I also found the front motor mounts were major loose. From underneath, there was only rubber and a nut, no steel washers on either side. I could move the bottom rubber up and down 1/4"!! New mounts coming. How much chattering does that cause? That motor could move up and down 1/4" and forward and back 1/2".

[meric42]

I would venture to suggest that the mount issue is a major contributor to to your chatter problem.

These are the best ones to buy:
https://www.bobdrake.com/3741enginea...51enginemounts

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by meric42

I would venture to suggest that the mount issue is a major contributor to to your chatter problem.

These are the best ones to buy:
https://www.bobdrake.com/3741enginea...51enginemounts

Yes, those are the ones I have coming. From Backorder Bob.

Phil Swanson

[19Fordy]

Phillip: With those new mounts your chatter problem will be solved. I tighten them up enough to remove all play and then 1 turn more. Use cotter pin. I don't use Loctite as it makes it more difficult to remove the nuts if the whole mount rotates when changing the mounts.

[grumppyoldman]

What thread size is used on the allen head bolt you are using. Mine is missing the bolt and I can't see the threads. Is the thread in the bar or frame. Al

[Gary in La.]

The original strut rod bolt is 7/16-20. Threads are in the strut rod.

[Kerk]

On my 35 the rods have a shoulder that tightens up against the hole in the engine with the nut on the engine side. Hope this is of some help. kerk

[grumppyoldman]

My 41 only has one rod and it's on right side of engine. Runs from bell housing to front cross member, it's not giving me a problem like clutch chatter or anything but I want to hook it back up. Al