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Old 08-07-2019, 11:19 AM   #21
drolston
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Default Re: Scat vs Merc crank

Put a SCAT stroker (4.125) rotating assembly in my 59A/B. Out of the box, you could turn the crank with two fingers, with the mains torqued down. Still holding 35 psi oil pressure at idle, hot. No problems in 3000 miles of daily driving, - and I do get on it pretty hard from time to time.

So far, I think I got my $1,800 worth.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:48 PM   #22
Ol' Ron
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Default Re: Scat vs Merc crank

I used a crank assy from JWL as well. I didn't know the type it was but it went into a Hydro engine and it also ran very well for many years/ I think it was a 4 1.8 crank??
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:01 PM   #23
GOSFAST
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Default Re: Scat vs Merc crank

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Ron View Post
Have ab Eagle crank assy from Gary that;s been running for the past 4 years in a 294 , L-100 powered 38 Ford PU that I went to lunch in today. Excellent quality and a fair price.
Hi Ron, I've lost count of all the FH Eagle shafts we've passed through here, not a single complaint, even related to balancing. (Read the PS)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JWL View Post
I have used one 4 1/4 Scat and have no complaints. The machining was as near perfect as I can measure and the quality of material seemed adequate. The only issue was trying to remove enough weight from the rod journals. If Mallory was used this would not be a problem. The engine has not been in a vehicle but has withstood a number of dyno pulls and has been inspected a few times showing no problem.
Hi John, your highlighted section above is exactly the reason we've never got involved in the FH Scat cranks. The time/cost of balancing ANY shaft that needs "fill" isn't something we look forward to. Not to mention the cost of the "Mallory" slugs either?

My son balances almost all my shafts now on our CWT/Turner and has never spent more than 30 minutes for the FH Eagles, this time doesn't include making up the bobweights, only to "read" both ends and do the actual corrections. Eagle's cast-iron material drills like "butter", but this is true with the Scats also, both brands drill really easy. I've NEVER had to "fill" an Eagle nor have I had to remove any weight from opposite sides of the counterweights! There's absolutely no reason these shafts should ever need filling (assuming a 1500/1600 grm bobweight) if they are cast up correctly and pre-machined by the vendor?

I'll be totally honest here and say the only single item to watch with the Eagle's is the clearance between the front side of the #2 main and the radius on the crank. Most clear OK, if they're too close it's a simple "at-home" fix with a small die-grinder, nothing "precision" needed.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. With respect to the entire Scat (crankshaft line), we rarely use their brand, only time really is if they "come in the front door" (customer-supplied). It all boils down to too many balancing issues with their stuff, and it's NOT only the FH's, it's the popular SB and BB Chevy's as well! On the "flip-side" their FH rods are excellent for these units, on these we won't use the Eagles here.

Last edited by GOSFAST; 08-07-2019 at 01:03 PM. Reason: C
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