Installing a 32' Roadster Body

[Ian1932]

So the exhaust is done. I just took it back down to paint it. The bracket kit i ordered made this super easy. There were few clamps with brackets which was good as i had a few to choose to modify.

Brake lines are done, almost. Need to mount a mater cylinder...Not really sure how to do this...Or where it should go. I guess i first need the pedals in place? Them i can plumb the rest of the brakes which should only take a few minutes...Does anyone have a few pictures of their master cylinder mounted & connected the the brake pedal and lines. Also need some mounting info...Pictures would really help me with this!

The fuel line, Not really sure what material this is or where it goes. Im guessing this is something i would run a metal line of some sort and then cut it to length after i get the engine and take installed? Can anyone direct me with this or share some pictures?

The tail-lamp wiring, should i do this first only so i wont have to crawl around on the floor? If this is the case im going to do that later.

Once again, thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!

[glennpm]

Hi Ian ... err Nick ;-)


Richard Lacy and son sell a conversion kit so this may be worth looking into.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/Convers...geles__CA.html


I can post my home made setup if you're interested. It is quite a bit of work though to make. It does work very well for me.


Glenn

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi Ian ... err Nick ;-)


Richard Lacy and son sell a conversion kit so this may be worth looking into.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/Convers...geles__CA.html


I can post my home made setup if you're interested. It is quite a bit of work though to make. It does work very well for me.


Glenn

I would like to see you homemade setup if you have time to take pics! I have a few of these master cylinders shown here. I wonder how this is set up? This is the only picture i could find...

[DavidG]

Originally, a product called Bundy tubing was used by Ford for fuel lines. It is composed of s copper-plated steel steel strip formed (wrapped) into double wall thickness tubing and fused together. Through the 1935 model year, the fuel gauges Ford used were so-called nydrostatic gauges which operated based on the amount of air pressure built up in the in-tank sending unit. The air traveled through a very small air line also made of Bundy tubing which was fused to the fuel line except at the very rear and at the firewall. The routing of these lines is shown on page A-14-5 and in the photos below.

While I have installed fuel/air lines on '32s with the body already in place, the better way is to install it before the body is installed.

The tail lamp wiring is not difficult to install after the body is in place, but again, it is a lot easier to do so before the body drop.

[glennpm]

This is my personal design for my 32.

I first determined what I could have for brake pedal lever ratios to work with my planed master cylinder in back of and just below the frame center-section. I had a stock 1940 pedal assembly with bracket so measured the lever distances from the centerline of the brake shaft to the pedal and then for the welded on brake arm I made.

I drilled two holes in the arm, the longer is what I used and the shorter, a contingent, which would require a drill hole through the frame for the push rod. The 40 has a 1 to 6 ratio and my 32 with the long lever, furthest out hole from shaft centerline, is 1 to 4-1/3.

I made the MC mount from 2”-4”-1/8” wall tube steel. I have a thick plate on the back where my bracket bolts to the center section on. It is slightly thicker than the indent at the back on the 32 center-section. It is attached with grade 8 bolts that hold the pedal bracket to the frame. The MC mount is ¼” thick. I added a plate and welded on side in a few blind weld holes from the other side.

In one my attached pictures you can see the back of the bracket. The three symmetrically located holes are for the MC. The one off to the left is to accept the engine steady rod rear retaining nut to the shaft.
The brake action is great for me. It is easy to modulate the action and not too stiff but more so than a 40 for example.

Glenn

[Ian1932]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by DavidG

Originally, a product called Bundy tubing was used by Ford for fuel lines. It is composed of s copper-plated steel steel strip formed (wrapped) into double wall thickness tubing and fused together. Through the 1935 model year, the fuel gauges Ford used were so-called nydrostatic gauges which operated based on the amount of air pressure built up in the in-tank sending unit. The air traveled through a very small air line also made of Bundy tubing which was fused to the fuel line except at the very rear and at the firewall. The routing of these lines is shown on page A-14-5 and in the photos below.

While I have installed fuel/air lines on '32s with the body already in place, the better way is to install it before the body is installed.

The tail lamp wiring is not difficult to install after the body is in place, but again, it is a lot easier to do so before the body drop.

Thanks David! So can i use 1/4" brake line tubing for these? Or maybe just a roll of copper from home depot? Are the ends going to be just a flare like the brake lines? I have done zero research on this yet so i know nothing other than what you told me so far...Thanks!

Also, it seems you have little clips to hold the lines in place? Is that a modern clip of some type?

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by glennpm

This is my personal design for my 32.

I first determined what I could have for brake pedal lever ratios to work with my planed master cylinder in back of and just below the frame center-section. I had a stock 1940 pedal assembly with bracket so measured the lever distances from the centerline of the brake shaft to the pedal and then for the welded on brake arm I made.

I drilled two holes in the arm, the longer is what I used and the shorter, a contingent, which would require a drill hole through the frame for the push rod. The 40 has a 1 to 6 ratio and my 32 with the long lever, furthest out hole from shaft centerline, is 1 to 4-1/3.

I made the MC mount from 2”-4”-1/8” wall tube steel. I have a thick plate on the back where my bracket bolts to the center section on. It is slightly thicker than the indent at the back on the 32 center-section. It is attached with grade 8 bolts that hold the pedal bracket to the frame. The MC mount is ¼” thick. I added a plate and welded on side in a few blind weld holes from the other side.

In one my attached pictures you can see the back of the bracket. The three symmetrically located holes are for the MC. The one off to the left is to accept the engine steady rod rear retaining nut to the shaft.
The brake action is great for me. It is easy to modulate the action and not too stiff but more so than a 40 for example.

Glenn

Glenn! Nice work! I see what you did there. That should help me get rolling. Going to get pedals on tonight maybe? Im might do just what you've done! Thanks for taking the time to take pics and all...Thanks you!

[glennpm]

You’re very welcome.

Glenn

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Thanks David! So can i use 1/4" brake line tubing for these? Or maybe just a roll of copper from home depot? Are the ends going to be just a flare like the brake lines? I have done zero research on this yet so i know nothing other than what you told me so far...Thanks!

Also, it seems you have little clips to hold the lines in place? Is that a modern clip of some type?

Ian...DON'T use copper line for brakes. It doesn't meet the pressure requirements. 1/4" line was what Henry used originally, and the vintage hydraulic brakes all use fittings sized for 1/4" tubing. Don't forget to DOUBLE FLARE brake flares. Get this "made for brakes" tubing at your local auto parts house. Click the link below! DD


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...008%7CL3*15690

[DavidG]

And don't use plain copper for the fuel line either. There's good reason it was steel originally. Some will chime in and write that they've used copper fuel lines for years without a problem. Those that did encounter problems likely can't write from where they are now.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Ian...DON'T use copper line for brakes. It doesn't meet the pressure requirements. 1/4" line was what Henry used originally, and the vintage hydraulic brakes all use fittings sized for 1/4" tubing. Don't forget to DOUBLE FLARE brake flares. Get this "made for brakes" tubing at your local auto parts house. Click the link below! DD


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...008%7CL3*15690

See post #46
Oh no, i didnt use copper for brake lines. I used nicop! I was asking if you can use brake line for fuel line or copper for fuel line...I did double flare everything as well...Thanks for looking out

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

And don't use plain copper for the fuel line either. There's good reason it was steel originally. Some will chime in and write that they've used copper fuel lines for years without a problem. Those that did encounter problems likely can't write from where they are now.

Can i use brake line for fuel line? What are the fittings at the ends of the fuel line? It looks like a double flare just like a brake line? Also what are the little clips you used to hold the fuel line in place in your photos? Thanks!

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Can i use brake line for fuel line? What are the fittings at the ends of the fuel line? It looks like a double flare just like a brake line? Also what are the little clips you used to hold the fuel line in place in your photos? Thanks!

Ian,
The fittings for the Ford fuel lines are quite special. When you get to that point, let me know as we make them.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Ian,
The fittings for the Ford fuel lines are quite special. When you get to that point, let me know as we make them.

I think im at that point...What is the line i should use? Thanks

[35fordtn]

As mentioned, copper plated steel. Given you are doing a not 100% stock car I wouldn't bother with the original Siamese line used in 1932-35..

If you have trouble sourcing any of this, we stock it all.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

As mentioned, copper plated steel. Given you are doing a not 100% stock car I wouldn't bother with the original Siamese line used in 1932-35..

If you have trouble sourcing any of this, we stock it all.

35fordtn, im taking it you own some type of business? Can you PM me some more info on what i need to buy or post some links for me? Thanks for your time...!

[JSeery]

Third Generation
https://www.facebook.com/Third-Gen-A...1476857296508/

[JSeery]

Third Generation Automotive

http://listings.homestead.com/info-t...e-nashville-tn

https://www.facebook.com/Third-Gen-A...1476857296508/

https://www.ebay.com/str/thirdgenautomotive

[deuce5wndw]

Any updates?

[tomcarman]

I too had been following this thread with interest. Ian32, where are you? Hope all is well.