Snyders Engine Paint

[deuce295]

Quick question about Snyders "Antique Ford Country" green engine enamel. I just received two pints of this paint that I was planning to shoot with my spray gun. the question I have is this paint already reduced and ready to spray, should it still be reduced or was it designed for brush application. Any tips from anyone that has used this would really be appreciated. Thanks

Jim

[Ray A from PA]

I have used it, but only with a brush often wondered how to thin it.

[Jim Baskin III Pa.]

deuce 295,only ever brushed it on and here is what it looks like.

[MikeK]

Holy variables Batman! I used this stuff two years ago both with a foam brush straight from the can (excellent) and also cut with enamel reducer through my Binks model 15 detail gun. (a lot of work, including mask & cleanup) I used it over bare metal without primer and it is holding up fine.

I don't remember offhand which tip number I used on the gun. How much you cut it depends on the gun type, tip size, air pressure, what reducer you use, what the ambient temp is, your technique, and if lady luck is with you today. You probably won't go wrong with 10-25% reducer and a tiny, tiny, splash of xylene. Mix just a few oz. @10% and test spray an old casting. Go light on the 1st coat, wet on the 2nd. Up the reducer if it doesn't flow out smooth.

If you air dry without heat lamps, give it at least a week before firing up, or you may boil and blister.

[deuce295]

Good info. Appreciate the replies and picture. I think I will try a couple test pieces, spraying and brush. Do you end up with brush marks or does it flow out pretty good. Thanks.

Jim

[DeBordEngineMan]

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Just used this paint on my engine worked very well with brush straight out of the can,did not have to many brush marks but I am just making a good driver hope this helps. DeBordEngineMan

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Have any of y'all ever tried to use any Hardener with it? Something like Mar-Hyde's 'Wet Look' generic hardener added with a little bit of flattener would likely allow the paint life to double in this application.

[skip]

Reduce to about 18 seconds with a #2 Zahn cup for a normal 'cheap and dirty' enamel sprayed with a typical cup/syphon gun. Prep and being clean prior to shooting is the hard part. Squeaky clean. If you reduce the paint too much you'll kill off the gloss.

skip.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Brent, does adding hardner add gloss? I noticed that you mentioned adding flatner when adding hardner, but no mention by anyone of adding flatner when brushing straight out of the can.

I use the green engine paint straight out of the can, which I bought from Little Dearborn in Mpls. I brush it on and have no brush marks. It flows out nice, and I like the color. It's been holding up very well with and without using a primer on the cast iron parts.

[kenparker]

When using the thick stuff out of the can I use an atrist "stipple" brush. It gets down into the rough cast surface and you have lots of control around the head studs and nuts.

[MikeK]

Brent,
About adding hardener and flattener- With all due respect, the average guy buys that green stuff from the vendors because it is simple and safe to use, not because it is a superior finish product.

Enamel hardener contains isocyanates, making the whole operation into a 2K operation with mandatory positive respirator air supply, unless you want to become a nerve twitching lab rat. Add to that you have now introduced "pot life" into the equation, so the little guy saving his spray mix for more parts tomorrow is out.

For the guy who does basically no paint work, adding hardener, flattener, etc. to the basic paint and reducer about doubles the cost. The little guy will use maybe 10% of the smallest can of hardener and flattener, the rest is waste, on the shelf for years. For you, it is cost effective for the admittedly superior results because you will eventually use all of everything you buy.

One question Brent: Is there some reason you mentioned Mar-Hyde wet look hardener rather than their standard overall or spot/panel hardeners? If you did go that way you likely wouldn't need the flattener. Maybe I answered my own question, you are the perfectionist who likes to fine-tune the glossiness. Kudos to you on that.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

hey Mike, yep, ...their generic Wet Look hardener is cheaper I'm thinking. My initial thoughts were that brushing it on really would not have any ill effects with "iso's" if someone were wearing gloves, ...which the safety conscience guys would likely be doing even if handling 1K products but you do bring up a valid point.

With regard to using all of it in the can, ...point taken but I think in many applications in bodywork, there is gonna be waste. If one buys a gallon can of Bondo, hopefully they don't feel compelled to use the entire can on the car just because they purchased it. Same with solvents, packs of sandpaper, etc.

Tom, hardener itself probably doesn't do much as it is the mil thickness and the flow-out that adds the shine. While I probably do give more emphasis to trying to replicate the correct "as originally manufactured" look, the Paint & Refinish guide says two light coats of enamel were applied and it basically states the finish was semi-gloss at best. For folks who have no interest in the "Form over Function" mindset, adding hardener would likely just add to the longetivity of the paint once applied.

BTW, most synthetic paints don't need a primer under them. Realistically, on topcoats on sheetmetal, we would not even apply a primer if the sheetmetal was straight enough and etched, --and PPG would honor the lifetime warranty. The primer nowadays is more for "leveling".

[redmodelt]

Why not just get the paint in rattle cans. 2 cans will do the engine and transmission. No clean up of the equipment when done. If you need to do touch up later, just spray some in a plastic bag.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Longevity of the paint on the engine is my main concern. I see a lot of engines that seem to loose the paint (often by peeling) within a few years of the restoration. My intake is still excellent except for the two small areas where the intake bolts to the exhaust. The paint has burned for about 1/2" around those two bolts. I haven't painted my engine and run it yet, but the intake has been on and running for over 3 years.

[deuce295]

Lots of good information and opinions shared. Appreciate everyones input.