The Ford Barn

Jwawhite · 10-03-2019, 07:55 PM

Are they difficult to R&R?

Better to just buy the complete unit?

What is the Torque on such an item?

Thanks, for info submitted.

Of course mine is worn out......has the same feeling as an unbalanced tire.

KULTULZ · 10-04-2019, 03:35 PM

JW,

Your best source of info is your SHOP MANUAL. All of that will be found there.

40cpe · 10-04-2019, 05:05 PM

I changed mine a few years ago. The loose link made it wander as the toe-in changes. Instructions were in the box. I think the only torqued piece is the bushing that screws into the steering center link. I THINK it was 90 pounds. It is not a big job. Mine was for manual steering.

Alaska Jim · 10-05-2019, 02:03 AM

usually, a bad idler arm will not make a wheel/tire "hop " as you describe, especially if the car is not moving as you stated when the wheels were spun up to 60mph. this is usually caused by a bad wheel, or a bad tire, or a combination of the 2. It is possible that the brake drum is out of balance, causing the problem if this happens when the vehicle is not moving, and the wheel, tire , and drum assembly are spun as one. Have you checked the wheel bearings, and the proper wheel bearing adjustment

Daves55Sedan · 10-05-2019, 08:11 PM

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Which idler arm? power steering or manual? they are completely different.
The manual steering idler arm can wear the acme threads inside the metal bushing only if hundreds of thousands of miles of abuse without periodic lubrication. I suggest applying grease at both fittings using a pressure grease gun at least once each year.
A brand new manual steering idler arm has maximum 1/8" vertical free travel resulting in no vibration problems. The manual idler arms have a rubber grease seal at both ends which don't amount to a hill of beans as far as being able to prevent vibration.
The power steering replacement idler arm bushings are rubber encased steel that are pressed into the special power steering idler arm bracket made of cast iron. The rubber would need to be real bad in order to notice enough looseness to achieve vibration, but if your undercarriage is oily, the rubber can deteriorate quickly.

I chose NOT to use the modern rubber bushings in my power steering. I kept the original FOMOCO set of collars/bearings that were installed at the factory. That system is much more vertically rigid while allowing free horizontal movement.

Far is I know, the replacement rubber bushing are still available from the repro parts suppliers.

10-03-2019, 07:55 PM	#1
Jwawhite Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Now on the Land of Sun City West, AZ Posts: 405	Idler Arm Bushings Are they difficult to R&R? Better to just buy the complete unit? What is the Torque on such an item? Thanks, for info submitted. Of course mine is worn out......has the same feeling as an unbalanced tire.

10-04-2019, 03:35 PM	#2
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY Posts: 6,466	Re: Idler Arm Bushings JW, Your best source of info is your SHOP MANUAL. All of that will be found there. __________________ *** - WHY IS IT ... - ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ... DIAGNOSED CDO** - (OCD In Correct Alphabetical Order)

10-04-2019, 05:05 PM	#3
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: Idler Arm Bushings I changed mine a few years ago. The loose link made it wander as the toe-in changes. Instructions were in the box. I think the only torqued piece is the bushing that screws into the steering center link. I THINK it was 90 pounds. It is not a big job. Mine was for manual steering.

10-05-2019, 02:03 AM	#4
Alaska Jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 1,575	Re: Idler Arm Bushings usually, a bad idler arm will not make a wheel/tire "hop " as you describe, especially if the car is not moving as you stated when the wheels were spun up to 60mph. this is usually caused by a bad wheel, or a bad tire, or a combination of the 2. It is possible that the brake drum is out of balance, causing the problem if this happens when the vehicle is not moving, and the wheel, tire , and drum assembly are spun as one. Have you checked the wheel bearings, and the proper wheel bearing adjustment

10-05-2019, 08:11 PM	#5
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Idler Arm Bushings Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Which idler arm? power steering or manual? they are completely different. The manual steering idler arm can wear the acme threads inside the metal bushing only if hundreds of thousands of miles of abuse without periodic lubrication. I suggest applying grease at both fittings using a pressure grease gun at least once each year. A brand new manual steering idler arm has maximum 1/8" vertical free travel resulting in no vibration problems. The manual idler arms have a rubber grease seal at both ends which don't amount to a hill of beans as far as being able to prevent vibration. The power steering replacement idler arm bushings are rubber encased steel that are pressed into the special power steering idler arm bracket made of cast iron. The rubber would need to be real bad in order to notice enough looseness to achieve vibration, but if your undercarriage is oily, the rubber can deteriorate quickly. I chose NOT to use the modern rubber bushings in my power steering. I kept the original FOMOCO set of collars/bearings that were installed at the factory. That system is much more vertically rigid while allowing free horizontal movement. Far is I know, the replacement rubber bushing are still available from the repro parts suppliers.