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05-12-2016, 08:02 AM | #1 |
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Location: Zeeland, MI
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Wheels are back from the powder coater
I got my wheels back from the powder coater yesterday. I think they are looking pretty good. The tires just came in last week from Coker as well. Now to get them installed without a scratch!
Note, hubcap is just sitting on top of the wheel. I haven't pushed it down on to the clips yet. |
05-12-2016, 08:10 AM | #2 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Try this trick. Place a large plastic trash bag over the rim, lightly lube the tire bead with dish washing soap ( a few drops) place tire on rim and push and turn tire will go right on!!! Install tube (if using one) and turn and push other bead on the wheel. No fuss /no muss and no scratches ..........
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05-12-2016, 11:16 AM | #3 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
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05-12-2016, 11:41 AM | #4 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Is that the Dearborn Blue powder? Looks Great!
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05-12-2016, 01:32 PM | #5 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
my question is, how do you get the hub cap off without scratching the rim, or the wheels. the wheels on my coupe are wide 5's with the same cap, and my wheels are also powder coated. I am almost afraid to try and take the caps off now that they are on for fear that I will " ding" up the caps or the wheels.
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05-12-2016, 01:33 PM | #6 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
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It is Powder # RAL 5011. Which was recommended for my Jefferson blue and also for Washington blue. RAL 5008 was also, however didn't look quote right on the color swatch to me. The sites below give you the RGB color code. http://encycolorpedia.com/2c3243 Ford Washington Blue http://encycolorpedia.com/373c48 Ford Jefferson Blue http://encycolorpedia.com/2c2036 Ford Dearborn blue To which you then use the RGB code on this site. http://www.easyrgb.com/index.php?X=SEEK#Result You must select the RAL Colors from the target color selections. A huge thanks out to glennpm for bringing these sites to my attention. Really appreciate the help! Regards, Jeremy I entered in the Ford Jefferson blue and came up with the RAL 5008, then entered the Ford Washington Blue and came up with RAL 5008 or RAL 5011. |
05-12-2016, 01:37 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Quote:
I use one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-1940-FO...pXLMPy&vxp=mtr It says that it is a 1939 - 1940 FORD FLATHEAD V8 TOOL KIT JACK HANDLE TIRE. I wrap in a thin sock. May wrap it in painters tape now. |
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05-12-2016, 01:48 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
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05-12-2016, 01:49 PM | #9 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
i have a `37 1/2 ton with wide five wheels, i use a tool made by bob drake to remove the hubcap. it works very well without damage to the paint or hubcap. are those one piece stainless steel caps on your `36?
tom |
05-12-2016, 01:58 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Quote:
The hubcaps are the SS accessory hubcaps that were similar to the accessory 36 Spyder caps without the spoke covers. Thank you to v8fordman for that info (See below). One of mine has the part number hand written on it. I now have 6. Three really nice and 1 that is ok. V8fordman It is an accessory hubcap that was commonly used on Lincoln wheels. The give-a-way is the "spokes" are not made with the hubcap. In this scenario, the wheel itself would have been plated giving the appearance of a spyder hubcap. I can't see for sure in the picture, but appears it is a '36 not a '37. The definitive answer is... It is an accessory hubcap. Part number 68-1150-B. From the 1937 Book... "Originally released in 1936 to be used with a special wheel with chrome plated spokes, it apparently found popularity with people who liked the look of having the painted wheel spokes between the hub cap and the wheel trim ring. This hub cap came only with the INDENTED "V8"and circle like the 1936 standard equipment hubcaps. It appears in the 7/27/36 accessory list and even some later lists, but not in the 1936 Chassis Parts List. Last edited by flatheadv8; 05-12-2016 at 02:32 PM. |
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05-12-2016, 02:24 PM | #11 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
place the out side of the rim on a heavy blanket then mount the tire on the inside of the rim. to remove hub cap push from the inside of the car with a large screw driver
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05-12-2016, 02:38 PM | #12 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Bob Drake calls it a Wheel Wizard. Here's a link.
http://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.asp...3-11ebd3c96410
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05-12-2016, 02:46 PM | #13 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Here's a video on how to use the Bob Drake 'Wheel Wizard' >>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkR83crQJN4
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05-12-2016, 03:46 PM | #14 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
To remove hubcap without scratching rim, I made a tapered wedge (about 1" to nothing) from a 3/4 " walnut board. It is about 6" long and can be tapped in between hubcap and wheel without scratching rim.
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05-12-2016, 05:56 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
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05-12-2016, 08:28 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
These may work. I use a set of similar tools for hubcap removal on my 56 Bird. ebay has all kinds of these. Search nylon pry bar.
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05-12-2016, 11:39 PM | #17 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
I use those yellow plastic gizmos HF sells like in the above picture. The one with the right angle works well on my 40s. Small , cheap and effective!
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05-13-2016, 01:52 AM | #18 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Thanks for all the suggestions on hub cap removal tools guys, gives me several options to try. I appreciate everyone's input.----Jim
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05-13-2016, 02:56 PM | #19 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
Great stuff; Just a note.... I noticed that coatings under the lug nut contact areas tend to break down, Does this loosen the wheel? Should we clean of the the contact areas... The bevel area? .. on newly coated wheels? Newc
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05-13-2016, 03:31 PM | #20 |
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Re: Wheels are back from the powder coater
That's an astute observation, and certainly a reasonable question. While I am no expert with this situation, carefully clearing the tapered "seat" area to bare metal really can't be a bad idea. DD
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