Powder Coating Suspension Parts

[Stretch Cab]

I have tried to search this topic but can't get a clear answer. While I value all responses, this really isn't about whether you like or dislike Powder Coating, I have reasonable reasons for wanting to do my chassis this way.

Because of several logistical reasons I am going to PC the frame on my 36 Fordor. For the same reasons I would like to PC the front suspension parts. Can I PC the spring leaves? {Leafs} They would be done separately. I will probably have the shocks rebuilt so they will come back painted. Are there any front end parts that should not be PC'd?

Thank you

[alanwoodieman]

one thing about PC is that it is hard and can be chipped. I see a lot of PC on frames, front axle beams, brake backing plates, brake rods, etc., but not so much on steering linkages, springs that flex and never on tie rod ends, or anything like that

[Kahuna]

X2 with Alanwoodieman

[Paul Bennett]

Powder coating is just that, a coating. It doesn't particularly 'stick' to the part but requires integrity of the surface to keep it in place. Chipping won't begin until the inner material becomes totally hard, which can be months depending on thickness. Once the chipping starts, from rock etc striking, water from humidity will penetrate and begin a rust process and whatever minimal grab of the coating sticking to the surface will further degrade. Once the coating becomes hard, it will break off springs or any metal which bends. Also, pc must completely surround the part. I.e. you cannot mask areas, as moisture will soon penetrate the interface between coating and no-coating.

Unfortunately the problems may not occur for a year at which time it's much too late to correct with a suitable oil based paint.

I like powder coating for most things used inside, but not in the worst place. I am also curious what those 'logistical reasons' are. Also, do you realize the required size of the baking oven will be? Or maybe you are working on a garage queen, in which case you have my blessings.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Eleven years ago I had three complete sets of '35 16" wire wheels powder coated. I've had two of these sets on my avatar '35 fordor at different times over the last eleven years. During this time, these two sets of wheels have done a combined total of 32,000 miles. I think the poppy red set has one tiny chip on a spoke, where it connects to the rim. Overall, they've held up very well, and basically look as good as when I had them done.
Now, having said this about my wire wheels, I would not want to powder coat a frame, spring, and some of the suspension parts mentioned by the original poster.

[Kube]

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I use powder finishing extensively in all of my restorations. It has held up extremely well. Some of these cars were restored in excess of thirty years ago and the chassis (parts) look nearly as new.
There is a huge difference in quality of powder finishing. It is imperative to find a company that cares enough to do it correctly. the "typical" coater is doing production work and as such is NOT what you want. Production quality is poor as most of you have witnessed on just about anything you purchase - lawn furniture, etc.

I always powder finish individual leaf springs and they hold up extremely well.

One thing powder finishing won't do is cover up blemishes. Just like applying paint to a fender, if the metal beneath the paint is flawed, it will be exemplified by the finish applied.

[Frank Miller]

Originally Posted by Kube

I use powder finishing extensively in all of my restorations. It has held up extremely well. Some of these cars were restored in excess of thirty years ago and the chassis (parts) look nearly as new.
There is a huge difference in quality of powder finishing. It is imperative to find a company that cares enough to do it correctly. the "typical" coater is doing production work and as such is NOT what you want. Production quality is poor as most of you have witnessed on just about anything you purchase - lawn furniture, etc.

I always powder finish individual leaf springs and they hold up extremely well.

One thing powder finishing won't do is cover up blemishes. Just like applying paint to a fender, if the metal beneath the paint is flawed, it will be exemplified by the finish applied.

Here is the best example of production powder coating being of poor quality. We all know how baseboard heaters rust up in bathrooms. When I installed mine I took it to a powder coater who does a lot of car stuff. Almost 15 years and not a spec of rust. He just went over the existing powder coating.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Here is the best example of production powder coating being of poor quality. We all know how baseboard heaters rust up in bathrooms. When I installed mine I took it to a powder coater who does a lot of car stuff. Almost 15 years and not a spec of rust. He just went over the existing powder coating.

You are quite correct. Another example? We have brackets above each stall in our stable to hold box fans. Eight of the twelve I had made 11 years ago and had "my guy" coat them. The other four were purchased.
Recently, I'd removed the fans and brackets to install new sealed motor fans.
my brackets still look as new. The purchased brackets? Hardly any coating remains...

[Stretch Cab]

Thank you for your input. My reasoning for wanting to powder coat is partially because of my schedule and the fact I live in Florida where I work and my car is garaged in North Carolina. I want to be able to disassemble parts, have them PC’d and start reassembly on my next visit. I like PC but for me it is a matter of using the best process to save me the most time. I am using Eastwoods Chassis Black on the chassis of the car I am working on in Florida. There again, PC would be a lot faster with my schedule but the paint is what I started with and it does look good.

[Krylon32]

I've powder coated the frames and suspension parts on my last 2 deuces. I do the frames in satin black and the suspension in gloss black. I no longer PC springs as I have some settling problems with PC'd springs. I don't know if having them coated has taken some of the temper out of them or they are just settling naturally? I now paint my springs with an epoxy paint. My coater specializes in high end coating for restorations, bikes and hot rods. We also have several commercial coaters in the area and I would'nt let them do my lawn furniture.

[ABento]

I also would be a little leary of powder coating springs, for the reason given by K 32, I know it would be time consuming but I would use KBS paints and go with their rust seal and top coat after the leafs were cleaned by wire wheel or light sand blast.

[bill3337]

I've had the leaf springs on my '33 powdercoated (individually) for 20 years and 60,000 miles and they still look good.

[tubman]

I did the rear springs on my '51 with POR-15 in 1987. They still look good. Being under the car and out of the sun helps a lot.

[Krylon32]

The last springs I had powder coated were a new Posie rolled and tapered 32 front and a new Posie rolled and tapered A rear spring on my deuce pu and they both settled out badly. Posie replaced the rear which after painting is holding up good and I just put a spacer on top of the front and went on.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I've powder coated the frames and suspension parts on my last 2 deuces. I do the frames in satin black and the suspension in gloss black. I no longer PC springs as I have some settling problems with PC'd springs. I don't know if having them coated has taken some of the temper out of them or they are just settling naturally? I now paint my springs with an epoxy paint. My coater specializes in high end coating for restorations, bikes and hot rods. We also have several commercial coaters in the area and I would'nt let them do my lawn furniture.

Powder finishing brings the steel up to 375° maximum - far below what it would require to alter the structure of spring steel. FAR below.

[deuce_roadster]

I have mentioned this before but I know a guy who is retired now but did the suspension powder coating for PACCAR which makes Kenworth trucks. They insisted on 2 things, 1 the piece is POWDER PRIMED, and 2 the highest grade of powder (epoxy) is used. The cheapo places powder coat directly on the metal with no primer, and use a cheaper powder (styrene). In addition to what Kube said, think about how well paint will stick to bare metal compared to primed metal. Quality PC resists 500 hrs of hot salt spray which is also what PACCAR required.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I have mentioned this before but I know a guy who is retired now but did the suspension powder coating for PACCAR which makes Kenworth trucks. They insisted on 2 things, 1 the piece is POWDER PRIMED, and 2 the highest grade of powder (epoxy) is used. The cheapo places powder coat directly on the metal with no primer, and use a cheaper powder (styrene). In addition to what Kube said, think about how well paint will stick to bare metal compared to primed metal. Quality PC resists 500 hrs of hot salt spray which is also what PACCAR required.

Excellent points all.
I didn't but should have added to my original post that all of my parts are powder primed.
Doing quality work costs more than "okay" work.
The problem I notice all too often (in my opinion) is most guys want cheap - quality level be damned.

[woodiewagon46]

I use powder coating all the time and have had no regrets. I would however, question powder coating leaf springs. The temperature is not the issue but the coating between the leafs will eventually abrade and wear off and might, be an issue, I don't know. Some new springs don't even want you to use lube on them. Also if the spring gets messed up from road use and rust you can always touch it up if it's painted.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

I use powder coating all the time and have had no regrets. I would however, question powder coating leaf springs. The temperature is not the issue but the coating between the leafs will eventually abrade and wear off and might, be an issue, I don't know. Some new springs don't even want you to use lube on them. Also if the spring gets messed up from road use and rust you can always touch it up if it's painted.

I can't imagine it wearing any worse than paint. Yes? No?

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

We built this truck 10 years ago and powdercoated ( Indy Powdercoating) almost everything that was loose, took it to Bonneville ran it on the salt came home and pressured washed the under side and its lived happily ever since...
Did not do the springs .....
Glad i did that.......