Break Pedal Return Issue

['31 Patina]

I have a '31 coupe with mechanical brakes and I'm all of a sudden having issues with the brake pedal not returning to its original position after it's been pressed, causing the brakes lights to remain on. After I apply the brakes I need to pull the pedal either with my hand or foot to get it back into position.

I searched the forum for other people who may have had this issue and someone mentioned to check out the turn signal switch that is mounted on the crossmember. After applying the brake, I checked the switch and noticed that the little shaft/rod in the switch isn't going back all the way. It almost seems like it's sticking. If I pull the pedal back then it's fine.

Do I have a faulty switch that is sticking (which is not even 1yr old) or do I need to adjust my brake pedal rod more so it applies more force to push back that little rod in the switch?

The ends of the brake cross shaft are in the 12 and 6 position. Everything else looks good except for the issue with the switch.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[redmodelt]

Could be a simple fix by adding a brake pedal return spring;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/251
or check the anti rattle springs;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/280

[jmeckel]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Could be a simple fix by adding a brake pedal return spring;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/251
or check the anti rattle springs;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/280

My A came with one of these, (brake pedal return springs) works great. If you look in the book about unauthorized accessories it appears these were made starting during the time the A was new!!!! So it seems to me that the issue of brake pedal return is about 80 years old! I am sure a purest would not like this option, but it is a lot simpler and faster than spending a lot of time trying to fix, and reduces the risk of a dead battery due to the brake light staying on that you did not notice.

[spike]

if you have a repo break-light switch try a good one from A&l and this may correct your problem. The cheep repo,s dont have the brass bushings in them and have a lot of drag and tend to hang up. good luck

[Rock Hornbuckle]

Your brake rod anti-rattle springs may be old and weak. All of the part suppliers of A parts carry them. Snyder's part #A2504/2866.

[johnbuckley]

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And I've had a brake pedal not returning because it was rubbing on th floor board.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Lubricate every moving part and make sure the brake switch plunger is not hitting the edge of the hole in the crossmember. Lubricate every moving part includes the brake switch plunger and the antirattle springs where they cup the rods.

['31 Patina]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Could be a simple fix by adding a brake pedal return spring;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/251
or check the anti rattle springs;
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/280

I have the brake return spring.

['31 Patina]

Originally Posted by spike

if you have a repo break-light switch try a good one from A&l and this may correct your problem. The cheep repo,s dont have the brass bushings in them and have a lot of drag and tend to hang up. good luck

Maybe I'll have to try the switch from A&I. Thanks for the suggestion.

['31 Patina]

Originally Posted by johnbuckley

And I've had a brake pedal not returning because it was rubbing on th floor board.

I have the floor out so I know it's not that.

[kwisor]

I need a new switch for my 30 tudor i could not find a&i doing a search what part# and what is there web site
kevin

[Patrick L.]

I was going to suggest removing the switch. Apparently you did, and, found it to be the problem ? Its not hard to take the switch apart[ maybe depending on who made it] and try to fix it. Usually they just need a little 'adjusting' and lube.

[RHD]

Have you tried simply lubricating the brake and clutch pedal shaft. Some pedals had a grease nipple.

[spike]

A&L has web site....just try a&l parts and it should come up.

[ctlikon0712]

A&L does not have a website but they do have a catalogue and here is their info. Also here is some info on the switches.

A and L Parts Specialties (860)693-0112 or 2620 (Connecticut)

[Rock Hornbuckle]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Lubricate every moving part and make sure the brake switch plunger is not hitting the edge of the hole in the crossmember. Lubricate every moving part includes the brake switch plunger and the antirattle springs where they cup the rods.

Don't miss lubbing the clevis pins on the brake rods. I've had dirt build up in mine, and had to pull the pins and clean the clevis too. This should be routine when lubbing the chassis each year.

[H. L. Chauvin]

After taking a new cheap 30/31 brake light switch apart yesterday, it is not difficult to see why they can malfunction & not slide easily after a short period of time.

The "steel" central pin slides in a stamped, "steel" bushing.

This steel bushing is an integral part of one-half (1/2) of the "steel" case.

At the rear, the center pin slides through a "steel" hole through the thin brake light case with no stamped "steel" bushing.

When the un-lubricated "steeL" bushing, (about 1/8" long), rusts & the un-lubricated "steel" pin rusts, the rusted pin cannot slide easily & it appears as though the internal brake light switch spring is not strong enough to move a rusted pin "all" of the way forward.

It is wonderful that A & L has a brake light switch with a non-ferrous bushing.

['31 Patina]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

I was going to suggest removing the switch. Apparently you did, and, found it to be the problem ? Its not hard to take the switch apart[ maybe depending on who made it] and try to fix it. Usually they just need a little 'adjusting' and lube.

I did remove the switch and the brake pedal returns to its corrct position now. So I'll try a new switch and see if that solves the issue.

[Duffy1]

Do a search . A lot of info on 31 repo switches . I tried one and had the same problem . After much grief I used a 28-29 switch .

['31 Patina]

Originally Posted by Duffy1

Do a search . A lot of info on 31 repo switches . I tried one and had the same problem . After much grief I used a 28-29 switch .

Whats the difference with the 28-29 switch? Does it mount the same as a 31?