Sharp, Edelbrock or modded OEM heads and head gasket

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

Hey guys, been a while since I posted.


Im currently working on my replacement mill for the 21 stud in my Deuce roadster....


My combo is a 59L relieved, block bored 3 7/16" x 4 1/8" stroke offset ground Merc crank. Yeah its a big bore, the block has checked out fine The pistons are a LC (low crown/ 3 ring design) and sit about level with the deck at TDC. Street use only.


I was thinking about either running Sharp or Edelbrock block letter heads (with the right cc) with this combo. Possibly even modded OEM heads if the CR/piston to head clearance works, as I do like the look of a "stock" head.


Im after some input as to which head would be most suitable and why?


Also curious as to what head stud length is required to work with either of these heads' I believe the Sharp heads are taller ?


Lastly, will a Best Gasket "big bore" head gasket clear for a 3 7/16" bore ?


Thanks in advance

[flatheadmurre]

Edelbrock takes stock setup of studs while Offenhouser and others don´t use the short studs...increased water capacity or what you want to call it...
Nothing usually works perfect out of the box...need to check/adjust clearance between piston/head and valves/head.
For brand and type it is like icecream...we all like different flavours !

[Bored&Stroked]

It will make little difference as to which brand of head you use (on the street) - if they're all setup correctly. The single most important detail is the squish or piston to head clearance. You want it to be about .040 - with a radius that matches your pistons. You will probably need to mill the heads to achieve that tight of a squish.

There are two different piston crown designs that I've seen - one uses a consistent radius (like Ross pistons), others have an elliptical crown - like some of the cast Ford pistons, 4 ring old Jahn's pistons, some from Egge, etc.. Make sure the pistons crowns and dome areas match and that you have a .040 clearance. Obviously you need to ensure that you have enough valve to head clearance - you'll have to check this. Lastly, you can CC the heads to determine the compression ratio. Given your cubic inches, I think you'll have plenty of compression potential - so determine what CC's you need in the head.

Stock heads will have lower compression (usually) - due to the transfer area . . . but some of the modern head designs (like the CNC Edelbrocks) have deep valve pockets and larger CC's than the older cast designs . . . so do your math and homework on the chamber volume you want. In the end, run what you like to look at the most! LOL

[old Tom]

What size valves are you using?

[Ol' Ron]

Allot of questions here. Yes the big bore gaskets will clear. Dome shape is not important. Checking piston to head clearance with alum balls or clay is. Cr is determined by size of chamber VS cylinder volume. What your asking is a very important one. the cylinder head provides the power and economy of the rest of the parts ans should be taken seriously, but few do. Edelbrock makes two chamber sizes 65 & 75 cc's . Thos can aid you indeterminding the CR Piston clearance at .040/050" around the outside diameter of the piston is desirable, However the area over the head will do. Word of caution here. Stock rods have a tendency to stretch with heavy pistons and hi revs. I've been using Egge 3 ring pistns and never had a problem with 5K
Allot of things to consider here, but when you modify anything, you must have a reason.

[Tim Ayers]

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In regards to the studs, you'll just have to measure. Once you figure it out, you can purchase individual ARP studs here. Best price around. Once you get to 50, there is a significant discount. Just buy two extra.

https://www.allensfasteners.com/

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

Thanks for the replies fellas, much appreciated.


Dale/Ron I usually go with around .040-.050" with a steel rod for decent quench/turbulance, and usually use foil balls on the edge and top of the piston. Valves are 1.6, with mild porting.


I won't be turning it super hard and the Weber F4 cam should be real nice for what I am doing and TQ will be great. I did'nt go all out on this bore as a planned build; I scored the short already done so here we go. I actually thought it was a 3 3/8" bore but not the case


Anyone used those Sharp heads, how did you like them?


Also, Ive contacted both Grant and Hastings multiple times for some 3 7/16" rings - -and still have not heard back from them.


Can anyone here help with sourcing some of these ?


Thanks again

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Blownflatheaddeuce

Thanks for the replies fellas, much appreciated.


Dale/Ron I usually go with around .040-.050" with a steel rod for decent quench/turbulance, and usually use foil balls on the edge and top of the piston. Valves are 1.6, with mild porting.


I won't be turning it super hard and the Weber F4 cam should be real nice for what I am doing and TQ will be great. I did'nt go all out on this bore as a planned build; I scored the short already done so here we go. I actually thought it was a 3 3/8" bore but not the case


Anyone used those Sharp heads, how did you like them?


Also, Ive contacted both Grant and Hastings multiple times for some 3 7/16" rings - -and still have not heard back from them.


Can anyone here help with sourcing some of these ?


Thanks again

There is a guy near Harrisburg, Pa. that has a barn full of new old Ford
rings. I can't think of his name but he used to be on here. G.M.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Blownflatheaddeuce

Hey guys, been a while since I posted.


Im currently working on my replacement mill for the 21 stud in my Deuce roadster....


My combo is a 59L relieved, block bored 3 7/16" x 4 1/8" stroke offset ground Merc crank. Yeah its a big bore, the block has checked out fine The pistons are a LC (low crown/ 3 ring design) and sit about level with the deck at TDC. Street use only.


I was thinking about either running Sharp or Edelbrock block letter heads (with the right cc) with this combo. Possibly even modded OEM heads if the CR/piston to head clearance works, as I do like the look of a "stock" head.


Im after some input as to which head would be most suitable and why?


Also curious as to what head stud length is required to work with either of these heads' I believe the Sharp heads are taller ?


Lastly, will a Best Gasket "big bore" head gasket clear for a 3 7/16" bore ?


Thanks in advance

I would call Egge too.

[lonewolf]

Are you planning on running a blower? If so run the 74cc Edelbrock if its n/a run the old block letter sharp or script letter

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

Lonewolf, no blower on this one; I run a 289 ci 8BA with a 4-71 in my coupe, this ones NA for the light roadster

[Ronnieroadster]

Contact Total seal for the ring size your looking for and like Tim wrote above try Egge also. Once you get the rings your on your way to building that engine for economy.
Ronnieroadster

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Contact Total seal for the ring size your looking for and like Tim wrote above try Egge also. Once you get the rings your on your way to building that engine for economy.
Ronnieroadster

Hope you and Laura are well mate.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Blownflatheaddeuce

Hope you and Laura are well mate.

Were doing fine Thanks. Seeing the your post about the 3-7/16 bore was interesting I have a complete engine same size except just a 4 inch stroke. One day I will need a set of rings for that build myself.
Ronnieroadster

[russcc]

How about Chuck Kuntz in PA for rings. He advertises on the swap meet frequently.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Were doing fine Thanks. Seeing the your post about the 3-7/16 bore was interesting I have a complete engine same size except just a 4 inch stroke. One day I will need a set of rings for that build myself.
Ronnieroadster

Ron, you need to put a one inch crank in that engine and put it in your roadster.
You would still be 23 inches short of the maximum for the class but I think you could compete very well.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Pete

Ron, you need to put a one inch crank in that engine and put it in your roadster.
You would still be 23 inches short of the maximum for the class but I think you could compete very well.

Thanks for the idea Pete. Hope your staying safe during this mess were in word is this week and the next will be the toughest. Since Im spending time home decided to clean out my shed today I found a set of 3-1/2 inch pistons forgot I has them. Go big or go home using them.
Ron

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Thanks for the idea Pete. Hope your staying safe during this mess were in word is this week and the next will be the toughest. Since Im spending time home decided to clean out my shed today I found a set of 3-1/2 inch pistons forgot I has them. Go big or go home using them.
Ron

I had a block that would go that big once but there would only have been about .005 wall left......LOL
Also thought about sleeving it at 3.5 and using through bolts into the crankcase
with a partially filled block... The Cad and Olds came out in 49 so I lost interest.

[Ol' Ron]

I had a set of Magnesium 3.5 pistons, wonder if those ar the ones Ron has. I was thinking of having them turnd down to 3 7/16.

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

Thanks for the input fellas