Rear main question

[FirstA]

This is a strange question I'm sure. Has anyone ever machined a rear bearing cap that requires long bolts so it can be used with the short bolts. There is a long story about what led to this question. Mostly me not paying attention during the engine rebuild.

[Kurt in NJ]

The reason for the long bolts is because the thicker cap is cast iron, the thin cap is forged steel, it is thicker for strength, the cast iron isn't as strong as the forged steel when it is thin. ---can you get away with it---or somewhere in between and use a different nut --possibly ---it's not that hard to find the longer bolts though

[ursus]

If it's for lack of the shorter forged cap used on the early A's I might be able to help you out. E-mail me.

[FirstA]

My screw up was not noticed until the engine was installed and ran. A very bad rear main oil leak led me to find I had installed the wrong cap. Yes it was plasti guaged. I had 3 engines torn down looking for the best block. Just used the wrong rear main for assembly. Not wanting to pull the engine to change the bolts has me searching for an easy way out. Probably not one but I figured it won't hurt to ask.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by FirstA

This is a strange question I'm sure. Has anyone ever machined a rear bearing cap that requires long bolts so it can be used with the short bolts. There is a long story about what led to this question. Mostly me not paying attention during the engine rebuild.

It wouldn't work any way.

[FirstA]

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You mean it would be stupid to try?

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by FirstA

You mean it would be stupid to try?

I don't know about stupid, but there wouldn't be enough cast thickness left for strenghth to tighten the bolts with out breaking out the bolt holes, at some point.

[George Miller]

I would not do it. all you are going to do is ruin a good cap. It is always best to do things the right way. In the end it will be faster.

[FirstA]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I will pull the engine, put in the long bolts and do it right. Always the best way.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I thought the rear main could be pulled with the engine in place.

At least I thought so unless you have a counterweighted crank, then the counterweights would get in the way.

[FirstA]

I have to pull the engine to put in the long rear main bolts. Flywheel is in the way.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by FirstA

I have to pull the engine to put in the long rear main bolts. Flywheel is in the way.

Of course, ......I posted with too little sleep and was thinking of the bolts coming down instead of lifting up. Anyway, using the correct bolts as mentioned is the only way to do it.

[FirstA]

Thanks Tom. I was hoping you would come back with a - well all you have to do is - kind of message. I am just not excited battling the flywheel again. Doing anything tomorrow?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by FirstA

Thanks Tom. I was hoping you would come back with a - well all you have to do is - kind of message. I am just not excited battling the flywheel again. Doing anything tomorrow?

It's been too hot to work outside most of the day for the past week, and for this next week it's the same. If you have A/C in the garage it will be a nice job, but if you don't be sure to use fans and go slow. No use taking the fun out of it. haha

[FirstA]

Tom, our weather is a bit different here in Montana. Low humidity and it was 52 degrees outside this mourning. Garage stays cool all day. I am close to lifting the engine out so things are going good. Really hard tearing my A down when finishing the total rebuild is not too far away. Yes I am having fun!