Cleaning engine water jackets

[davidGR]

Hey guys,

Radiators off to the shop to be rerodded so I took the water pump to see what the inside of the water jackets etc looked like. Here are some photos on a scale of 1-10 how bad does the inside look?

I was thinking of capping the bottom inlet and filling it with something like evaporust while I wait for the radiator. Any suggestions what Else I should put in there?






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[WHN]

90 year old guy having a colostomy. Now we know what our doctor see’s.

Do you have a leakless water pump. If not, I would add one after seeing your pictures.

Flush out and I would add rust inhibitor with distilled water or anti freeze. Enjoy.

[PeterBo]

Hi David. I am about to do exactly the same thing but I have bought a new 10 tube per inch radiator to replace the old from Berts. I have not had a good look inside the water jacket yet. Reason for doing this is that I am getting overheating issues when the outside temperature gets above about 28'C. I am also intending to fill the block with Evaporust and let her sit for 3-4 days.

When drained and well flushed I will reassemble but also install a new temperature gauge in the outlet radiator pipe at the top. Hopefully this will solve my overheating issues.

Good luck with yours.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Seal/block water pump opening. White Vinegar, or evaporust, or Thermocure (basically concentrated Evaporust you mix with distilled water), or Rust911 are all good options. Mine was somewhat worse. I started with white vinegar, a couple of times, then went to thermocure a couple of times. Thermocure and evaporust turns very black, and when very black has lost its effectiveness. Repeat treatments till you are happy. Flush/backflush extensively with garden hose. Then last time with distilled water. If using vinegar, some leave in for up to a week to a month. If using vinegar last flush with distilled water/baking soda mix and let it sit to neutralize the vinegar . Then some blow dry with a leaf blower to insure everything is flushed/blown out.


Put in an upper hose filter.


Distilled water summer coolant.
If going to use distilled water coolant, add 14 ozs. of Napa Macs 1300 Rust Inhibitor and a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter, These will help prevent Rust/Scale, and additionally have some Water pump conditioner/lube. Additionally Water wetter may increase the efficiency of your system and lower the coolant temp by 5-10 degrees.


For winter, drain, add 50 50 green antifreeze with 14 ozs Macs Rust Inhibitor, this can drained, saved, and reused multiple times, just add the inhibitor each year. Flush your radiator cooling system thoroughly, and refill with the summer coolant mix.


Anti-freeze summer coolant.

Purchase 50 50 premixed green, or mix purchased green concentrate with distilled water (cheaper to mix yourself). Add 14 ozs Macs Rust Inhibitor, add again in fall if not replacing anti-freeze. Personally to be on the safe side think you should Drain, flush/ back flush every 2 years and add fresh antifreeze/inhibitor. You may want to use a commercial flush for flushing.


Again, opinions may vary

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by PeterBo

Hi David. I am about to do exactly the same thing but I have bought a new 10 tube per inch radiator to replace the old from Berts. I have not had a good look inside the water jacket yet. Reason for doing this is that I am getting overheating issues when the outside temperature gets above about 28'C. I am also intending to fill the block with Evaporust and let her sit for 3-4 days.

When drained and well flushed I will reassemble but also install a new temperature gauge in the outlet radiator pipe at the top. Hopefully this will solve my overheating issues.

Good luck with yours.

I have the same issue, Am in the final bit of resolving. Have done the cleaning, see previous post. Still not right. A senior member on the Barn and I are fairly sure the 2 row, 8 fin flat tube I have is not good enough, even though it is almost pristine from flushing/backflushing.


Last item is to run a Block Test to absolutely insure I do not have an exhaust leak into the coolant, and then go with a new radiator.


Most have told me the 8 fin 2 rows are problematic unless it is a Brassworks radiator, otherwise go with a 3 Row heavy duty radiator (8-10 Fin/inch). I've, heard info that the 4 rows may have fitment problems due to their increased core depth, and may not cool all that better because the depth decreases air flow through it (again stories). I believe the 1930 original design was a 3 row flat tube.


Not sure with I am going to do, but no one complains about Bergs radiators. Bergs seem to install and fit better than the Brassworks, but they seem to perform great. Reviews on the Bert's is also good. Downside is that the Bergs are the most expensive option. (over $800). Most likely will wait until next year to decide/replace.

[copgib]

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A bergs radiator is well worth the money. Sure it is more expensive but I was in the same situation awhile back with my 1930 Model A Coupe was overheating. I used Evaporust and I left it in for 20-days and after I flushed it out it appeared clean. So I installed the Berg's radiator and fulled it with antifreeze and distilled water. I also installed a temp gauge and a filter in the top radiator hose. This corrected my problem. Good luck! Hugh