Broke down, trans won't engage any gear....Help!

[30RoadTom]

I have a stupid question and two informational questions. Hopefully I can get at least one answer to each. I'm trying to fully understand the job ahead before I get started.

Stupid question: If only one axle broke, why wouldn't the other axle still turn and move the car? I'm glad it didn't, because the wheel on the broken side would likely have come off, causing more damage. I'm just curious. Obviously I don't understand drivetrains....or transmissions.....or women.

First Informational question: When I do the disassembly....what's the purpose of the spring spreader? To basically KEEP the spring spread, enabling the removal of the axle housing on one side? Like, I just need to get a little tension on the spring with the spreader so the shackle bolts can be safely removed? So then the spreader would need to remain in place until after everything has been reassembled?

Second Informational question: Aside from the possibility of a worn differential gear on the end of the broken axle, is there any preference or benefit for purchasing an axle with gear already attached versus JUST the axle (and reusing the gear )? I see a difference in cost of over $150 from one source.

[Kurt in NJ]

With the original axle the gear was forged one piece with the axle ---perhaps you are looking a a model T axle, they had a seperate gear

[30RoadTom]

Snyder's Antique Auto sells it both ways, supposedly both for an "A" ($415 or $248). Their price for just the drive shaft is $74 less than Mac's ($322). Those are my only usual sources for parts.

[Licensed to kill]

The reason that the other wheel wouldn't still drive the car with a broken axle is because of the spider gears. They allow one axle to travel at a different speed than the other for going around corners. They are also responsible for getting stuck when one wheel spins and the other doesn't. When you have a broken axle, the broken side spins and the other doesn't. The power always goes to the side with the least resistance. The spring spreader pushes the spring apart to relieve the tension. The spring, at rest is narrower than the distance between the shackles and is spread to attach it to them. Can't answer you axle gear question as i didn't know they came in two pieces. BTW, I just pulled my axles today and made a spring spreader for about $10. They are not a complicated thing.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by 30RoadTom

Obviously I don't understand drivetrains....or transmissions.....or women.

Originally Posted by Licensed to kill

They are not a complicated thing.

....yeah, but most women are.... Just saying...

[Bob C]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

This link shows how a differential works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOgoejxzF8c

Bob

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by 30RoadTom

Snyder's Antique Auto sells it both ways, supposedly both for an "A" ($415 or $248). Their price for just the drive shaft is $74 less than Mac's ($322). Those are my only usual sources for parts.

The $248 is for a drive shaft not an axle shaft. I wouldn't buy anything
from Mac's.

Bob

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Licensed to kill

The reason that the other wheel wouldn't still drive the car with a broken axle is because of the spider gears. They allow one axle to travel at a different speed than the other for going around corners. They are also responsible for getting stuck when one wheel spins and the other doesn't. When you have a broken axle, the broken side spins and the other doesn't. The power always goes to the side with the least resistance. The spring spreader pushes the spring apart to relieve the tension. The spring, at rest is narrower than the distance between the shackles and is spread to attach it to them. Can't answer you axle gear question as i didn't know they came in two pieces. BTW, I just pulled my axles today and made a spring spreader for about $10. They are not a complicated thing.

Like, whin sumbody jist asked, "Whut time is it"?-----NOT how the CLOCK wurks----Jist put an AXLE in it!
SA Bill W.

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by 30RoadTom

I have a stupid question and two informational questions. Hopefully I can get at least one answer to each. I'm trying to fully understand the job ahead before I get started.

Stupid question: If only one axle broke, why wouldn't the other axle still turn and move the car? I'm glad it didn't, because the wheel on the broken side would likely have come off, causing more damage. I'm just curious. Obviously I don't understand drivetrains....or transmissions.....or women.

First Informational question: When I do the disassembly....what's the purpose of the spring spreader? To basically KEEP the spring spread, enabling the removal of the axle housing on one side? Like, I just need to get a little tension on the spring with the spreader so the shackle bolts can be safely removed? So then the spreader would need to remain in place until after everything has been reassembled?

Second Informational question: Aside from the possibility of a worn differential gear on the end of the broken axle, is there any preference or benefit for purchasing an axle with gear already attached versus JUST the axle (and reusing the gear )? I see a difference in cost of over $150 from one source.

The spring spreader is used to hold the tension in the spring while you unhook the shackle. Be very careful with that spring as it is lethal and can well kill you. Be sure to use a proper spring spreader. Do not use the one that is called a "traveling spreader", they are essentially half a spreader and are extremely dangerous. Leave the spreader in place until you have the shackle hooked back up.

Most rear axles fail at the outboard end. The only ones I have heard of failing at the gear end were reproductions.

What can contribute to rear axle failure is the lack of proper torque of the axle nut. If not tight enough it will allow the wheel to rock each time there is braking and acceleration. This constant pounding wallows out the key slot. Eventually a small crack will appear at the inboard end of the key slot. The crack will begin to travel around the circumference until it parts. It may take years to part after the initial crack occurs.

The amount on torque required on the nut varies depending on who is telling the story. What I do is set my torque wrench at 90 foot pounds and tighten until it clicks. I then look and see where the cotter pin hole is. If it is in the window I leave it at that value, if not I continue to tighten until the hole appears. You may go as high as 120. It is a good idea to check the torque value again after about 100 miles. I torque the wheel lug nuts to 60 foot pounds.

Tom Endy

[30RoadTom]

Tom, I appreciate all the info. My car was fully restored 26 years ago and I inherited it 10 years ago, so I'm not familiar with much more than maintenance tasks.

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by 30RoadTom

Tom, I appreciate all the info. My car was fully restored 26 years ago and I inherited it 10 years ago, so I'm not familiar with much more than maintenance tasks.

Go to the web site of the Santa Anita A's of Arcadia, California at www,santaanitaas.org. On the home page put your cursor on "Technical Reference", my name will drop down below, click on it. It will bring up a library of technical articles. They are all PDF files. You are welcome to download and print out any or all.

Tom Endy

[30RoadTom]

Finally Finished! I'm slow with my posting too....While I had the whole thing apart I decided to replace the passenger side axle as well. All the extra thinking and parts delivery times added to the length of the project. It looked exactly like the broken axle in wear patterns, probably both were original equipment. Photos attached. I guess you don't get 90 years out of an axle. Plus new axle seals and differential fluid....haha. Two weeks ago I took it out for a test drive and didn't die. So I took it in for a NYS Inspection (a month overdue), took it home and put it to bed for the winter. Thanks again to everyone, especially Tom Endy for the shortcut axle removal instructions. Happy motoring!